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@SonofaBish No ticking coming from the passenger rear anymore? Having the same issue in my 2011 CTT, though the double-click of the lock key will let it lie peacefully. At least for the moment. Haven’t seen any related codes so thinking about holding breath and following suit.
@SonofaBish No ticking coming from the passenger rear anymore? Having the same issue in my 2011 CTT, though the double-click of the lock key will let it lie peacefully. At least for the moment. Haven’t seen any related codes so thinking about holding breath and following suit.
Yup, everything has gone back to normal!
Good luck... it really wasnt hard, but one other notable.... I'm 6'2" and I had to lean over the quarter panel the whole time, which makes me unhappy.... if you're under 6', I'd recommend a stool of some sort
Finally got around to replacing my faulty alarm siren today. Not overly difficult but it did take the 2 hours as noted, some of this time was confirming some details on ALLDATAdiy.com like removing the hood strut and cowl. The scariest bit of the task is removing the hood strut in order to open the hood far enough to rest on the windshield, with an appropriately placed towel, to allow access to the driver side wiper and mechanism screws. Removal of the cowl cover wasn't hard once I found where to place the pry tool to get it started. Got everything buttoned up and the wipers still work and park in the proper spot so all is good.
I was surprised at how much louder the double chirp was when locking the car with a properly working alarm as I'd gotten used to the subdued volume.
Got my 2011 CS (105K miles) back in August and like has been noted here, was surprised the 'chirp chirp' was barely audible. Not having owned a Porsche before I figured maybe that's normal. My alarm was working fine until a month ago. It started doing the flashers thing either immediately, or maybe after a minute or two when activating the alarm. Got a siren module on eBay from a parted out Cayenne (74K miles) for $40 . The new part number is 1K0951605C. Thanks to the very nice write-ups and DIY articles here from Rennlisters, got the siren module installed and works like a charm, and the 'chirp chirp' is much louder.
I ended up replacing my Faulty Alarm Siren on 958 Turbo, its a bit of a pain to get to, but not something you can't do in 2 hours. When I locked the doors the flashers would go off. Only way to stop it was to leave a door open and unlocked.
Make sure you have the tool that pops out the wiper arms
Must remove the wiper motor assembly 5 bolts in total
So I can also confirm, I have a 2011 CTT and the hazards started coming on when locking, I should have realized it was coming based on this thread, because over the last months I sometimes wasn’t getting an alarm chirp when I locked it. Anyway, I changed the siren and it’s back to normal. Total cost $34 for a used part. It took me about 3 hours to do, and there’s no programming needed, just plug it in and it fixes it.
I wouldn’t call it hard, but it isn’t pleasant either. The thing is jammed in there pretty good with wiring harnesses and stuff around it. Like others, I found it MUCH easier to remove the 2 10mm nuts and take the bracket away from the firewall so I could more easily get to the 13mm nut on the siren itself. there are tons of YouTube videos on how to pull wiper arms, I just used a universal puller tool, not a “wiper specific” tool and it worked fine.The plastic cover to the area is a pain in the butt to get out, but like others say just pull up straight on the corner to get it going. It’s tightly fit in a channel along the bottom of the windshield, that’s what’s so hard to break out. I did put the hood back further by disconnecting the strut. All in all, not the worst job, just a bit tight and annoying around the siren module. Oh, and I think for me the toughest part was the single star bolt on the wiper motor bracket on the drivers side. It was awkward with the hood location to get in there easily with the normal tools I have, but they are not on very tight, so it could be worse.
Thanks for this thread, made it pretty easy to diagnose.
Thanks a million to this thread for helping diagnosing my flashing hazards. It was maddening to figure out at first, but thanks to this thread/posts, and a used $35 siren and an hour of time, this is fixed. The dealership wanted over $600 and they didn't even mention the siren until I brought it up as a possibility. Then they were like yeah, that could be it, too.
Took me an hour, easy if you have wiper arm puller, socket set, and trim removal tool. The best time saver is to use a trim removal tool at the edge of the plastic cowl and slide it under to separate the seam then run it along the whole way and it will be off in seconds.
Good luck!
This is the error that I was getting for the faulty alarm siren, that was causing the flashing hazards upon locking
This thread, and a couple others were quite valuable. THANKS to those who took the time to post.
A couple key things that helped me, and maybe those who follow:
--I bought the Porsche part--others weren't available or were more expensive (VW). No way I was going used given the failure rate.
--marking wiper position with blue tape was a great tip
--two stools, one on each side made the job a bit easier and faster
--I found the hood to be in the way at times even with the strut disconnected. I had a helper, xxxspouse, hold it vertically for those tricky areas
--the window seal was tricky to get back in. I cleaned the slot (quite dirty) and then worked from one end to the other
--there was a surprising amount of leaves and such in areas under the main cover. All clean now.
This thread, and a couple others were quite valuable. THANKS to those who took the time to post.
A couple key things that helped me, and maybe those who follow:
--I bought the Porsche part--others weren't available or were more expensive (VW). No way I was going used given the failure rate.
--marking wiper position with blue tape was a great tip
--two stools, one on each side made the job a bit easier and faster
--I found the hood to be in the way at times even with the strut disconnected. I had a helper, xxxspouse, hold it vertically for those tricky areas
--the window seal was tricky to get back in. I cleaned the slot (quite dirty) and then worked from one end to the other
--there was a surprising amount of leaves and such in areas under the main cover. All clean now.
Good luck!
Nice work!
I'm now on my third siren, soon to be fourth, because my second and third both were used. The failure rate on used has to be approaching 100%. If you search around for Alarm, Don Eilenberger ripped one apart and found a corroded battery in it. No wonder.
If you guys are tired or replacing these, you can rewire the setup (and recode the BCM) to use any sort of alarm siren with 2 wires. I think the only function lost is that backup battery. The diagram below shows two different setups for the alarm siren/horn. I know this works, as I discovered that mine had been changed at some point, probably to stop dealing with failing alarm modules.
This has got to be the dumbest ****ing thing any manufacturer has ever come up with.
Yes, when your guaranteed to fail alarm siren fails, instead of you know, flashing your lights for 5 minutes as a heads up, we are going to have your lights flash until your battery dies.
I just bought a 2011 CTT and the dealer conveniently concealed that issue from me, and I only discovered it hundreds of miles away when I got home....I posted a thread about the experience
But please let me get this straight: If you try to lock the car with the remote and get no chirping sound but instead hazard lights come on, (and doors do not lock), and although no DTC related to the alarm siren (using XToll D8), it means that the alarm siren is bad??
Last edited by Tarek9xx; Jun 13, 2022 at 01:54 AM.
Reason: missed a word
If you guys are tired or replacing these, you can rewire the setup (and recode the BCM) to use any sort of alarm siren with 2 wires. I think the only function lost is that backup battery. The diagram below shows two different setups for the alarm siren/horn. I know this works, as I discovered that mine had been changed at some point, probably to stop dealing with failing alarm modules.
Thanks for posting this. It would be great never to have to deal with this again. Are all the wires in this setup new? Could you elaborate to someone wanting to do this?
Thanks in advance
Thanks for posting this. It would be great never to have to deal with this again. Are all the wires in this setup new? Could you elaborate to someone wanting to do this?
Thanks in advance