What would cause a longer stopping distance?
#1
What would cause a longer stopping distance?
I recently bought a '14 Cayenne to replace my '13 Cayenne which was totaled a few months ago. Both performed well in every respect. In fact, I probably couldn't tell them apart if driving them blind folded. (ha!)
But I'm noticing increased stopping distances now on long and on short drives. Pedal travel feels fine but I did a flush anyhow. No results (none expected really) from that. The pads have good thickness and the rotors look fine.
Any ideas what would cause increased stopping distance?
But I'm noticing increased stopping distances now on long and on short drives. Pedal travel feels fine but I did a flush anyhow. No results (none expected really) from that. The pads have good thickness and the rotors look fine.
Any ideas what would cause increased stopping distance?
#2
Tires have a large impact on stopping distance. On my X5 it came with crappy off brand tires and the first week I put on DWS06, and noticed a difference in stopping distance, comfort, and handling. So even if the tires are new, if they’re a bad brand or model, that could be your issue.
#3
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Do we know what pads are in the '14? Factory or aftermarket? Some pads sacrifice stopping power for lower brake dust. Not a good tradeoff IMHO. And are the two vehicles comparable in brake configuration? There is a big difference between base, S, GTS and Turbo brakes.
#4
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Im going with brake pads must be different.
#5
I dont think it's the pads because for the first three to four weeks, I thought the braking performance was excellent (just like the '13 model I had). It's just been during the last week or so that I've noticed a change in the amount of effort I use to stop the car.
And they are definitely dusting like OEM pads.
And they are definitely dusting like OEM pads.
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#8
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You say the pads look fine, but what abot the inner pad that you can't easily see??
#10
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OK. So you've left us with an unsolvable mystery. I think you'll have to get used to it, or take out a pad and figure out who made them. Could be contaminated pads - run through any deep water recently?
#11
Assuming the options in the car are equal - in other words the relative weight of the car is equal it would come down to the following possibilities:
- tire choice - it's the only performance/safety feature that touches the ground. The compound of the tire determines how fast you can accelerate, brake and turn
- alignment - assuming the tires are exactly the same; 2 different alignments will again determine how the car brakes, turns and accelerates and uses up tire life.
- brake pad compound
- suspension; if the suspension is blown or not performing to par then the car won't transfer weight optimally.
Btw maximum braking occurs at the moment just before the abs kicks in. If your abs is over active and engaging early, you could have a pad difference problem or possibly air in the system.
- tire choice - it's the only performance/safety feature that touches the ground. The compound of the tire determines how fast you can accelerate, brake and turn
- alignment - assuming the tires are exactly the same; 2 different alignments will again determine how the car brakes, turns and accelerates and uses up tire life.
- brake pad compound
- suspension; if the suspension is blown or not performing to par then the car won't transfer weight optimally.
Btw maximum braking occurs at the moment just before the abs kicks in. If your abs is over active and engaging early, you could have a pad difference problem or possibly air in the system.
#12
I'm confident that this is related to only to the pads. The braking performance I was referring to is "around town with the kids in the car"... just gentle stops.
I've not driven through any deep water but it has rained like I've never seen here lately. I read somewhere else that it may help to sand the rotors and pads with 60 grit sand paper to remove any surface contaminants and glazing. I don't see glazing on the rotors though and I think it was Abraham Lincoln who once said "Don't believe everything you read on the internet."
I've not driven through any deep water but it has rained like I've never seen here lately. I read somewhere else that it may help to sand the rotors and pads with 60 grit sand paper to remove any surface contaminants and glazing. I don't see glazing on the rotors though and I think it was Abraham Lincoln who once said "Don't believe everything you read on the internet."
#13
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Have you looked at master cylinder issues yet? As a master cylinder just begins to fail, there is an almost unnoticeable softening of the pedal but a very noticeable drop in braking performance. It is so gradual that most drivers don't notice the change in pedal feel until much later. Over time, as the master cylinder degrades further, the pedal gets softer/spongier and eventually can be pushed slowly to the floor.
#14
You might try re-bedding the brakes.
https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq
When I got my CD they had replaced the pads and rotors as part of the CPO process. It took a while for them to bite the way they should. In the BMW world guys would go through this process a lot as the factory pads were bad about transferring material resulting in a pulsing in the pedal.
https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq
When I got my CD they had replaced the pads and rotors as part of the CPO process. It took a while for them to bite the way they should. In the BMW world guys would go through this process a lot as the factory pads were bad about transferring material resulting in a pulsing in the pedal.