Where is the Alarm Siren in a 2011 Cayenne Turbo?
#17
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I'll be quite curious if replacing the "siren" fixes the faulty alarm. From looking at the wiring diagrams - it appears to me that the siren is exactly that - just a noisemaker with no logic circuitry involved. Keep us up to date, please!
From the "Service Introduction" when the 958 was introduced:
"Rear-end electronics (anti-theft alarm system master) The alarm system function is integrated into the rear-end electronics. The alarm system has no effect on driving authorization. However, the same processes are used to release the engine immobilizer and deactivate the alarm system. Deactivation of the alarm system therefore also involves encryption, with data exchange via the CAN bus."
From the "Service Introduction" when the 958 was introduced:
"Rear-end electronics (anti-theft alarm system master) The alarm system function is integrated into the rear-end electronics. The alarm system has no effect on driving authorization. However, the same processes are used to release the engine immobilizer and deactivate the alarm system. Deactivation of the alarm system therefore also involves encryption, with data exchange via the CAN bus."
Last edited by deilenberger; 10-26-2020 at 11:25 PM.
#18
no, this isn’t correct. I’m waiting for the siren to come (I have this exact problem, upon locking I have flashing hazards). I went and pulled fuse 17 and the hazards still flash the same as before when locked. Fuse 17 does not stop it.
#19
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So the question is - which fuse #17?
#20
He's talking about fuse 17 in the driver's side panel. It's a 5 labeled "secondary siren" (or something like that). But removal will not stop the hazards, I think it was a guess based on the fuse name.
However, changing the alarm siren module DOES stop the flashers. I did it last week, total cost $34 for a used siren module on ebay. Absolutely fixes the hazard problem as soon as you swap it out, no programing needed.
#21
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Good info. Was the ebay one spec'd for the Cayenne or did you just do PN matching to the VW/Audi PN? Mine finally seems to have failed for good today. I think the load of snow that melted around the cowl area might have had something to do with it. It's interesting - the dealer near me keeps it in stock - meaning it's a high movement item off the shelf. I'd also go for the used ebay one if I didn't have to move my Boxster out of the garage and into the snow to fit the Cayenne in - unlocked. The additional time in receiving an ebay item would just get me way too upset about the Boxster outside. I do suspect this is revenge on the part of the Cayenne - the garage space used to be it's until the Boxster appeared.
#22
Good info. Was the ebay one spec'd for the Cayenne or did you just do PN matching to the VW/Audi PN? Mine finally seems to have failed for good today. I think the load of snow that melted around the cowl area might have had something to do with it. It's interesting - the dealer near me keeps it in stock - meaning it's a high movement item off the shelf. I'd also go for the used ebay one if I didn't have to move my Boxster out of the garage and into the snow to fit the Cayenne in - unlocked. The additional time in receiving an ebay item would just get me way too upset about the Boxster outside. I do suspect this is revenge on the part of the Cayenne - the garage space used to be it's until the Boxster appeared.
I just part number matched. In fact, I think my unit was listed as an Audi one. But it didn't matter, it was the same part. Sometimes when time is a factor, I sort the ebay listings by distance away from me, and then buy the closest one so I know it will come as quickly as possible. Many times the part comes overnight if you find one close enough.
It's not a "hard" job, it's just annoying because everything is really tight in that space. The plastic thing below the windshield is hard to get started coming out. the top edge is sitting in a a channel right below the windshield, so put most of your force in the corner right at the base of the windshield and it should pop up and start. Also, when you get to the siren, it's definitely easier to take the 2 10mm mounting bolts off so you can rotate it to get the 13mm nut holding the siren. I don't know how people did the 13mm without taking the mounting bolts out, it's tight. But in order to rotate it, you need to release a few wire harness bundles around the siren, the tension just holds it in place (or at least on mine it did). For me, the star bolt holding the drivers side windshield wiper frame was annoying to get as well, but that's because I didn't have a screwdriver bit adapter to use with a wrench. it's awkwardly below the corner of the hood.
Good luck! It took me about 3 hours from start finish, and I went very slow and careful. I thought snow melt had done mine in as well. But honestly, when I got in there, everything was pretty bone dry (and there was snow melting on the hood). So I'm not sure if they just fail over time with temperature changes from engine compartment heat. I don't know, but it didn't look like I expected when I opened it, there were not obvious signs of moisture on mine.
#23
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Picked up the siren at the dealer today (don't ask $$$ - too much) and I was surprised at how small it is. The photos make it look bigger - but this small box came out of the parts department, and in it is the siren. Looks like the pictures but somehow it looks small. I would guess the original manufacturing cost at about $2.00
#24
Picked up the siren at the dealer today (don't ask $$$ - too much) and I was surprised at how small it is. The photos make it look bigger - but this small box came out of the parts department, and in it is the siren. Looks like the pictures but somehow it looks small. I would guess the original manufacturing cost at about $2.00
#25
#26
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Done today. $380 labor by my mechanic. Things we observed:
1. Putting the hood back on the windshield with a towel ends up leaving it straight upright. A small breeze from the rear would be enough to bring it down. That wouldn't be good if one was laying on the engine trying to reach things back in the cowl area. A hood-stick (adjustable length prop) is a good idea.
2. The wipers are a bitch to remove. Cursing involved.
3. The plastic cowl doesn't really want to come out of the windshield rubber gasket. It did need plastic wedges at one end to get it started (AllDataDIY suggested this.) PITA. Cursing involved.
4. Lots of wire bundles in the way of removal of the siren and bracket.
5. The center drain in the cowl recess for the articulated wiper arms is DIRECTLY ABOVE the siren assembly. It can't not get wet. Especially if meltinig snow is in that recess. DUMB design.
Took longer than expected, which means it cost a bit more. If you're heading in for this block out 4 hours of time. You might be lucky and do it in less.. but...
This car is $500'ing me to death..
1. Putting the hood back on the windshield with a towel ends up leaving it straight upright. A small breeze from the rear would be enough to bring it down. That wouldn't be good if one was laying on the engine trying to reach things back in the cowl area. A hood-stick (adjustable length prop) is a good idea.
2. The wipers are a bitch to remove. Cursing involved.
3. The plastic cowl doesn't really want to come out of the windshield rubber gasket. It did need plastic wedges at one end to get it started (AllDataDIY suggested this.) PITA. Cursing involved.
4. Lots of wire bundles in the way of removal of the siren and bracket.
5. The center drain in the cowl recess for the articulated wiper arms is DIRECTLY ABOVE the siren assembly. It can't not get wet. Especially if meltinig snow is in that recess. DUMB design.
Took longer than expected, which means it cost a bit more. If you're heading in for this block out 4 hours of time. You might be lucky and do it in less.. but...
This car is $500'ing me to death..
- $850 to pin the potential leak point behind the engine (about 4 weeks ago)
- $300 for a new Interstate AGM battery installed (last Friday)
- $600 to replace the damn $5 siren (which cost $230 after PCA discount from local dealer.)
The following users liked this post:
ZenicaPA (07-17-2021)
#27
Done today. $380 labor by my mechanic. Things we observed:
1. Putting the hood back on the windshield with a towel ends up leaving it straight upright. A small breeze from the rear would be enough to bring it down. That wouldn't be good if one was laying on the engine trying to reach things back in the cowl area. A hood-stick (adjustable length prop) is a good idea.
2. The wipers are a bitch to remove. Cursing involved.
3. The plastic cowl doesn't really want to come out of the windshield rubber gasket. It did need plastic wedges at one end to get it started (AllDataDIY suggested this.) PITA. Cursing involved.
4. Lots of wire bundles in the way of removal of the siren and bracket.
5. The center drain in the cowl recess for the articulated wiper arms is DIRECTLY ABOVE the siren assembly. It can't not get wet. Especially if meltinig snow is in that recess. DUMB design.
Took longer than expected, which means it cost a bit more. If you're heading in for this block out 4 hours of time. You might be lucky and do it in less.. but...
This car is $500'ing me to death..
1. Putting the hood back on the windshield with a towel ends up leaving it straight upright. A small breeze from the rear would be enough to bring it down. That wouldn't be good if one was laying on the engine trying to reach things back in the cowl area. A hood-stick (adjustable length prop) is a good idea.
2. The wipers are a bitch to remove. Cursing involved.
3. The plastic cowl doesn't really want to come out of the windshield rubber gasket. It did need plastic wedges at one end to get it started (AllDataDIY suggested this.) PITA. Cursing involved.
4. Lots of wire bundles in the way of removal of the siren and bracket.
5. The center drain in the cowl recess for the articulated wiper arms is DIRECTLY ABOVE the siren assembly. It can't not get wet. Especially if meltinig snow is in that recess. DUMB design.
Took longer than expected, which means it cost a bit more. If you're heading in for this block out 4 hours of time. You might be lucky and do it in less.. but...
This car is $500'ing me to death..
- $850 to pin the potential leak point behind the engine (about 4 weeks ago)
- $300 for a new Interstate AGM battery installed (last Friday)
- $600 to replace the damn $5 siren (which cost $230 after PCA discount from local dealer.)
#28
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I used to do much of it - but I'm getting at 7.5 decades circling the sun and I'm without a lift .. add some arthritis and other issues there are limits to my wrenching activities (although for some reason I keep buying tools.. go figure..) I do more now on the Boxster than the Cayenne. The location of the alarm siren really isn't a pleasant place to get at.. thing is - my mechanic friend is only about 7 years younger, so he's starting to avoid this sort of job too.. If the weather had been pleasant and my garage heated I might have considered it, doing it before going to physical therapy for my back.
#29
Intermediate
Thanks so much for this post and detailed info, saved me so much money and was easy to do! I could have knocked this out in an hour if the wiper cowl didn't take me so long to figure out how to remove.
Cowl Removal Tip: Use a thin plastic trim removal tool at one end of the cowl and slide under and it will separate the seams, and then run it down along the bottom of the windshield. You will have it off in seconds and with ease! I then used a SOFT rubber mallet to GENTLY hammer the cowling back in place and back into the ridge/seam.
Order a used part for around $30 and you will save over $100, and within an hour you will have this done! It really is much easier than what others were complaining about, assuming you have the wiper removal tool, and a socket set.
Cowl Removal Tip: Use a thin plastic trim removal tool at one end of the cowl and slide under and it will separate the seams, and then run it down along the bottom of the windshield. You will have it off in seconds and with ease! I then used a SOFT rubber mallet to GENTLY hammer the cowling back in place and back into the ridge/seam.
Order a used part for around $30 and you will save over $100, and within an hour you will have this done! It really is much easier than what others were complaining about, assuming you have the wiper removal tool, and a socket set.
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kvec (06-06-2021)
#30
I had complained to my dealership which sold me my ‘11 Turbo that the range of the keyless entry was unusually short... like I’d have to click the fob right next to the car otherwise it wouldn’t lock... and the alarm had a muted crunchy “CLICK CLICK”.... Dealer insisted they couldn’t find anything wrong and had no options for me. Top notch service there ;P
Interestingly, once I had the alarm module replaced by the local shop, the range of the FOB increased dramatically. Doesn’t really make sense as to why, but clearly a short circuit within the module affected the ability of the system to actuate the remote locking.
Hopefully helpful to someone who runs into the same issues....
Interestingly, once I had the alarm module replaced by the local shop, the range of the FOB increased dramatically. Doesn’t really make sense as to why, but clearly a short circuit within the module affected the ability of the system to actuate the remote locking.
Hopefully helpful to someone who runs into the same issues....
The following 2 users liked this post by BladeMD:
deilenberger (04-23-2021),
kvec (06-06-2021)