958 High Pressure Fuel Pump DIY
I had the long cranking issue a few years ago when I my CPO CTT. The dealer replaced the high and low pressure fuel pumps and the fuel control unit (whatever that is) under warranty.
Now I'm getting the long cranking issue again. It mostly happens when the car has been off from about 2-4 hours. It starts pretty fast when completely cold and starts fine when completely hot.
Does this sound like the HPFP? Any feel for how long from start of symptoms to check engine light?
Now I'm getting the long cranking issue again. It mostly happens when the car has been off from about 2-4 hours. It starts pretty fast when completely cold and starts fine when completely hot.
Does this sound like the HPFP? Any feel for how long from start of symptoms to check engine light?
Hi there, I am planning to do this job this weekend. The part has arrived. I have reviewed all the DIYs I can find and looked up all the torque values in the FSM. There is some wording in the FSM about not letting the pump run dry and a procedure that needs to be followed but the instructions aren't clear and the section follows on after the below extract to disconnecting the battery etc. The manual isn't really clear whether this applies to the V8 or not. Can anyone make sense of this?
From FSM: "CAUTION: Danger of irreparable damage to the high-pressure pump if it runs dry
To avoid letting the fuel high-pressure pump run dry and to start the engine quickly after replacing
parts, the following points must always be observed:
If parts/components of the fuel system between the fuel tank and fuel high-pressure pump are
removed or replaced, the basic setting must be performed in order to bleed the fuel system.
Perform initial fuel fill procedure after installing the high-pressure pump."
From FSM: "CAUTION: Danger of irreparable damage to the high-pressure pump if it runs dry
To avoid letting the fuel high-pressure pump run dry and to start the engine quickly after replacing
parts, the following points must always be observed:
If parts/components of the fuel system between the fuel tank and fuel high-pressure pump are
removed or replaced, the basic setting must be performed in order to bleed the fuel system.
Perform initial fuel fill procedure after installing the high-pressure pump."
Hi there, I am planning to do this job this weekend. The part has arrived. I have reviewed all the DIYs I can find and looked up all the torque values in the FSM. There is some wording in the FSM about not letting the pump run dry and a procedure that needs to be followed but the instructions aren't clear and the section follows on after the below extract to disconnecting the battery etc. The manual isn't really clear whether this applies to the V8 or not. Can anyone make sense of this?
From FSM: "CAUTION: Danger of irreparable damage to the high-pressure pump if it runs dry
To avoid letting the fuel high-pressure pump run dry and to start the engine quickly after replacing
parts, the following points must always be observed:
If parts/components of the fuel system between the fuel tank and fuel high-pressure pump are
removed or replaced, the basic setting must be performed in order to bleed the fuel system.
Perform initial fuel fill procedure after installing the high-pressure pump."
From FSM: "CAUTION: Danger of irreparable damage to the high-pressure pump if it runs dry
To avoid letting the fuel high-pressure pump run dry and to start the engine quickly after replacing
parts, the following points must always be observed:
If parts/components of the fuel system between the fuel tank and fuel high-pressure pump are
removed or replaced, the basic setting must be performed in order to bleed the fuel system.
Perform initial fuel fill procedure after installing the high-pressure pump."
Just watched the video and it was helpful thank you. It is the first time I have seen the false firewall removed, I wondered how that was possible. I have managed so far without removing it and without removing the low pressure line from the firewall because there is no risk of bending it. Seeing that I have used a 10mm ratchet spanner for most tasks I was wondering how I would fit a torque wrench back there. Does removing the false firewall help with that? Otherwise I will leave it in place.
Another question from your video, I don't have a launch, I have an iCarsoft POR V2 which lets me monitor live data but not delete adaptations. Can I do this without that capability on a scanner? I did ready a procedure in the FSM which may of involved disconnecting the battery or turning the ignition switch on for 30 seconds I will need to check.
Last edited by Tim Matar; Feb 17, 2026 at 03:48 AM. Reason: Watched the video.
Ok, I'm tackling this project and the single hardest part so far has been this hard to reach connector, I finally got in unclipped and I'm now trying to clip it back in. Is there any trick, I've officially spent 3-4 hours cutting my hands up trying to get it back in with no luck. 958Garage did it so easily in the video and I'm wondering if there's any tip to it. Idk if they made the wire shorter on my 14 tts or what but I feel like I've hit a major brick wall. I've felt in the slot but it just wont clip back in. Any words of advice?
Great video @garrett376 . I could have used this video five years ago during the pandemic when I changed out my HPFP on my 2009 CTTS. 10 weeks to get the part from Germany and in the meantime I tore a tendon on my left hand so I installed it with a splint on my finger. Not much fun.
You make it look easy! This will help a lot of people down the line. It should be pinned in the DIY stickeys.
You make it look easy! This will help a lot of people down the line. It should be pinned in the DIY stickeys.
Great video @garrett376 . I could have used this video five years ago during the pandemic when I changed out my HPFP on my 2009 CTTS. 10 weeks to get the part from Germany and in the meantime I tore a tendon on my left hand so I installed it with a splint on my finger. Not much fun.
You make it look easy! This will help a lot of people down the line. It should be pinned in the DIY stickeys.
You make it look easy! This will help a lot of people down the line. It should be pinned in the DIY stickeys.
At one point in time it took a good 4 months for Porsche to have the high pressure pumps available, and at one point they'd only allow a dealer to obtain one with proof the car was actually in the service bay. Strange supply issues happen, it seems!
Ok, I'm tackling this project and the single hardest part so far has been this hard to reach connector, I finally got in unclipped and I'm now trying to clip it back in. Is there any trick, I've officially spent 3-4 hours cutting my hands up trying to get it back in with no luck. 958Garage did it so easily in the video and I'm wondering if there's any tip to it. Idk if they made the wire shorter on my 14 tts or what but I feel like I've hit a major brick wall. I've felt in the slot but it just wont clip back in. Any words of advice?
Thanks Tom! I've done this job way too many times... so I've got it down! 😅
At one point in time it took a good 4 months for Porsche to have the high pressure pumps available, and at one point they'd only allow a dealer to obtain one with proof the car was actually in the service bay. Strange supply issues happen, it seems!
At one point in time it took a good 4 months for Porsche to have the high pressure pumps available, and at one point they'd only allow a dealer to obtain one with proof the car was actually in the service bay. Strange supply issues happen, it seems!



