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Looks like I might be in the same boat. Very similar no sound symptoms. Started this morning, no sound, then sound briefly, then no sound again. Drove an hour, parked and fired up after lunch, worked, for the most part, popped off, then back on. Then a few hours later, no sound what so ever (except turn signals and warning tones).
Digital dash displays "audio source unknown", source selector looks like it allows changes, but selections are ignored. Was stuck in AM, then later stuck in FM. Tried switching to Disc, would play but did display song titles. Can place phone calls, rings recipient but no sound as if mic and speakers aren't working. Then a temporary experience fuel gauge malfunction, but went away. I've seen that one other time briefly and might not be related.
I'm going to remover the rear passenger interior quarter panel and check amp connection and look for moisture or corrosion.Sure as ****, the Bose Amp plug was full of water and somewhat corroded. More to follow with pictures and progress.
Hoping a good cleaning and appropriate contact grease will solve the sound issue. Trying to determine the source of water and I am speculating it is running down the hatch lift pistons. The connector, unfortunately, is like a little collector accumulating any water into a little watertight “bucket”.
I’d rather a wet connection over a wet circuit board. Part of my solution will be to divert any drips from collecting in the connection and of course the circuitry.
Last edited by auzivision; 02-17-2020 at 09:09 AM.
Reason: Updated
Pictures how to Access Bose Amp with wet connector
Pictures are worth thousands of words. I can embellish later, but the following are some pic to potentially help other members in the future. Disassembly take patience, which I lack at times. So I will be replacing one of those stupid plastic screwy rivets,
Handy little pry bar had perfect slot for removing this golf tee shaped rubber pins. Best twenty dollar addition to my socket set Signs of water appeared almost immediately when starting disassebly This bugger is NLA (no longer able for use... LOL) This one I got wiser using a small pry along with an allen wreng jammed way in. it is also NLA too. Defiently signs of corrosion, and not just recent either. Perfectly water tight rain drip guage. It was pretty much full. Luckly there is a Fry's down the street. Look like it's all but out of business.
So I lost my radio on Sunday and my job on tuesday. Not the best week. Anyhow, I dried, cleaned, and treated the connectors and can report back it didn't solve the problem. Still looking for a solution and now, a job. Not sure which will come first.
2014 Cayenne S. Water intrusion from passenger side rear sunroof drain. Drips directly down on amplifier connection. Solution. The sunroof drain exits just under vehicle behind rear tire. It was stopped up, just like the front cowl drains. Popped it out. Cut off the cross area that was clogged. At least a gallon of water came out. Reinstalled without the cross on the rubber plug. Removed amp. Cleaned connectors with contact cleaner and WD 40. Let it sit for a couple of days. Reinstalled amp. put plastic shield over the connector. Amp started working again. Sigh of relief. Trimmed rubber drain plug driver side sunroof drain exit behind rear tire also. No more water worries. John
Looks like I have the same problem. Where is this drain? Do you have to remove the wheel liner to access it?
TIA
Yeah, I tried to pop the trim and it wasn't budging, and now has a slight wiggle to it. ugh.
I used a flowable window sealant around the inside, went to a wider area that where the dripping seemed to be coming from and letting that cure until tomorrow. Cracked the amp open and saw nothing corroded or fried, so I'm almost hopeful it may have just been moisture on that main connection causing this, I'll know tomorrow when I plug it in and play it for a while to see if it acts up before I put everything back together.
I found an amp on ebay for $430 and I see there are several for sale at the moment, albeit for a higher price. The amp is a VIN'd part, you wil need a PIWIS II or III to change the vin in it and program it to your car.
between the rear fender and the bumper directly underneath. do not have to take off the wheel liner. lay on the ground under rear quarter panel and look up. Rubber drain is easily seen. be carefull when you pull the drain out. I had a gallon of water drain out
between the rear fender and the bumper directly underneath. do not have to take off the wheel liner. lay on the ground under rear quarter panel and look up. Rubber drain is easily seen. be carefull when you pull the drain out. I had a gallon of water drain out
found it but was unable to pull the drain. I ended up cutting the tip off so that the opening is bigger. It was damp. But no water. Did the same to the other side. If the drain was not clogged then I wonder where the water is coming from.
found it but was unable to pull the drain. I ended up cutting the tip off so that the opening is bigger. It was damp. But no water. Did the same to the other side. If the drain was not clogged then I wonder where the water is coming from.
Just to be clear, does this occur only with the panoramic sunroof - or do the drains clog with the standard sunroof? I have a "no sound" issue with my 2011 MY 958, but I have the standard sunroof and didn't want to tear up the cargo area if that's not a potential cause.
Just to be clear, does this occur only with the panoramic sunroof - or do the drains clog with the standard sunroof? I have a "no sound" issue with my 2011 MY 958, but I have the standard sunroof and didn't want to tear up the cargo area if that's not a potential cause.
I'm not sure if it only occurs with the panoramic roof. But it's really easy to check. There's a removable panel on the right side in the trunk. Just pull it and reach inside toward the bottom. Feel to see if it's wet. If it is, then there's a good chance that your amplifier shorted out. You can also look in the spare tire area. See if there is any water there.
Super easy to cut part of the drain. Takes all of 2 minutes.
Thanks for the reply - I haven't seen any indicator of dampness in the spare tire well, but I guess it's worth a check behind the panel. I'm not sure when the "no sound" problem started and I've done a number of electrical items recently that could have been the cause including new battery, aftermarket integrated back-up camera and rear left lock actuator replacement (lot's of fun!). Radio seems to operate, but no sound on AM/FM, disc, or NAV.
Thanks for the reply - I haven't seen any indicator of dampness in the spare tire well, but I guess it's worth a check behind the panel. I'm not sure when the "no sound" problem started and I've done a number of electrical items recently that could have been the cause including new battery, aftermarket integrated back-up camera and rear left lock actuator replacement (lot's of fun!). Radio seems to operate, but no sound on AM/FM, disc, or NAV.
are there any sounds with the back up/ proximity sensors?
maybe its the connection of the radio itself. It's really easy to pull the radio out to check.
I appreciate the tip. I'm not aware of any other sounds except typical chimes for key on/seatbelt warning/door open. I don't have Park Assist, so no backup/proximity sensors that I'm aware of. I had the radio out when I did the back-up camera - used a NAVIKS NK-3103 Interface harness https://naviks.com/i-24076627-2011-2...ef=brand:97247 and the back-up camera function works fine. Since I didn't pay attention to when the sound stopped, I suppose it's possible that the interface has an incorrect terminal assignment at the connector - only way to check is to pull it out and return to stock and see if that does it.
I pulled the radio and disconnected the interface, reconnected the factory connector and the sound was back. I examined both connectors and noted that the factory unit had two orange wires that went into a cavity at the lower left (looking at the back of the radio). It turns out that is the input/output for the Optical Wave Guide Circuit that goes to the amplifier on the Bose system. It is actually a sub-connector into the main connector. I released it and inserted it into the matching empty cavity in the interface harness. Now I have sound and back-up camera! There were no instructions that came with the interface - just advertised as "Plug-and-Play" which was true, but should have been a little more detail on the "plug" part. Thanks for the help!
I ultimately had to replace my Bose amplifier via the dealership. $900 for the unit and $400 to install and program to VIN. They also stated they "cleared" the drain.
I was too uncertain to buy a replacement via Alibaba for $400.
Also, for the record... my GTS has the full pano sunroof.
Sorry posted earlier about my Porsche issues but I have the 2006 turbo s, I accidentally typed 2007.
anyways I was trying to help, but post got moved to the correct forum.
if you need an amp look at the Audi ones they are usually cheaper and I bet they are the same amp Although look slightly different, in the 995 & 997 they are identical but have completely different labels and part numbers.
search Audi Bose amp, it may save you some money if you need a replacement amp.
maybe someone more savvy would know, you might even be able to swap the internals over??
You may be able to swap the internals over???