ssquare14

Recently bought a used 2012 Cayenne S with 60K on the ODO under CPO warranty until early 2018.

Looking for recommendations for preventative maintenance items during an upcoming service appointment.

Background:

Took it in for a small oil leak and was diagnosed with a timing cover leak. Engine has to come out so rescheduled appointment for a loaner. The repair is covered under warranty, but I feel like its a good time to take preventative measures (at my cost) while the motors out.

Before purchasing the 958, the 60K maintenance was completed and the local Porsche dealership replaced the transfer case. Maintenance records show some (not all) coil packs were already replaced, but those are relatively DIY friendly so i'm not too worried.

Any known early wear items on these 958's? I was thinking about doing the serpentine belt early, and maybe the idler pulleys. Should I do the water pump?

Texas993

Consider replacing the thermostat housing. They are glued and will fail (at least it did on my '11 Turbo). Water pump is up to you. But at 60k miles, it is likely ok to run it.

deilenberger

See if they'll replace the water pump for no-labor charge. Also do have the serpentine belt replaced, and have them check the idlers. Water pump is around $350 from Porsche.

Since they'll be in the engine - I would expect an oil change/filter to be done before delivering it back to you. And if yours is one of the rare 2012's with the defective Variocam bolts (see the thread on that) - this would be the time for those to be replaced too. Most 2012 V8's don't have that problem - but the dealer can tell you by the VIN# if yours is one of the unlucky ones.

ssquare14

I inquired about the Variocam bolts and luckily my build is not affected. Question though, why would they be willing to do a no-labor water pump? I know it's a relatively easy job with the engine out, but won't it also require a fluid flush?

deilenberger

Good will. My dealer did it when my engine was out. Of course in my case - the engine was out because the dealer screwed up a repair and had to R&R it to fix it. And they had the car for a month doing it.

They have to remove the serpentine belt anyway to do the timing-chain gallery leak. The coolant is removed before the engine comes out so that's not an issue. It just requires them unbolting the old pump and bolting the new one in, and then moving the belt-pulley from the old one to the new one. At the very least they should agree to doing it for actual time it takes to do it rather than the book price which would include all the other disassembly, draining, etc. that would be required.

They will be looking for you to give them all 5 stars on the customer satisfaction survey from Porsche. That's a way to do it - it's for the inconvenience of your having to bring the car in and drive an inferior loaner.

It also helps if they like you. I find a case of German beer goes a long way when they finish a job.. the next job you're treated as you might hope to be.

TheUnscented

Hey Don & Lewis,
Last week I changed the air filter elements on my 79K mile '12 CTT. (thank you 6SpeedOnline.com) The driver's side frame rail & surrounding area was caked with oil & grime, the passenger side clean. It doesn't use much oil but I've only had it since this summer, putting on 13k miles and doing two oil changes myself.

To me, it appears that the source of the oil is the driver's side turbo. My CTT is CPO until 1/18/18 so it's going into the dealer on 12/26/17. If the engine needs to come out, I'll have a prophylactic work done:

• thermostat housing (& thermostat)
• water pump
• serpentine belts
• idler bearing
• spark plugs (not changed since 40k miles)

Would you also do all new coolant hoses?
Any attention to the passenger turbo?

TIA!!

porches

Water pump doesn't have to come off to do the timing cover, if they charge any extra for that it should be a very small amount of labor, definitely under an hour.

deilenberger

Coolant hoses aren't known for failing, it's the connectors that seem to fail.

In addition to the above:
1. Engine mounts. It's a tad costly in parts, but since on the turbo the manual calls for engine removal to replace them - now would be the time. Also do the top engine strut.
2. Have them JB-Weld (or see if they'll let you do it) the aluminum pipe that goes into the cross-over plumbing between the heads on the back of the engine. I'd just gorp it liberally around the junction of the pipe and aluminum casting. A cheap bit of insurance.
3. Have them order and install the vent kit for the transfer case. Impossible to do with the case in, but it comes out as part of the subassembly for the engine (along with the transmission..) Be very easy to do with the engine out.
4. Detail the engine compartment


HTH,.

deilenberger

My dealer did it for free when the engine was out (being fixed by a screwup they made installing new Variocam adjusters. Took about 15 minutes with the engine out and drained of coolant.

porches

Definitely a good idea to address the rear coolant manifold issue, they're honestly better off replacing it rather than putting some type of partial fix on it. If it pops off after the temp fix, it's engine out again. It can be replaced while the engine is in, but I wouldn't go through the hassle of doing it on a Turbo, a few of the techs here tried but will be pulling the engine next time to avoid the headache and blind work.

That's good, 15 minutes is rather accurate.

Kirill

Great thought on Engine mounts - these are maybe 30%-50% thru its life and are very labor intensive to replace