When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good going Don. Next time I have mine on the lift I will check to see if it is damp. The lubrimoly stop leak will be my next step if that is the case. I do know that mine no longer drips. I love a "self healing" leak!
Thought I'd update things. After the great dry pic above, I crawled back under about 2 weeks later - and took a look. Found:
Taken on 06/30/18
That was all cleaned up using a rag soaked with carb cleaner on a grabber thingie. When I was done it looked spotless again - but what's up with the oil above?
I crawled under again today.. and found:
Looks satisfactory. the latest inspection is above (just past 88k miles on the turbo now..) Next oil change (@90K) I'm going to a 5W-40 oil I think. See how that works out. I have no idea why there would be an intermittent wetness..
;Mine is leaking again. Quite a bit, in fact. I just did about 3,000 miles in a 10 day period. With two 900 mile days. One of those pulling a light uhaul trailer.
My leak seems to be related to these long summer trips. (we go back and forth to Colorado). I'll clean it up again. It is due for an oil change, but I think that I will put in the lubri moly stop leak and run it for a few hundred miles before the oil change. Or do you think I should change the oil first, then add the stop leak?
Frustrating. And my CEL came on today too. Haven't pulled the code yet. But running like a champ.
;Mine is leaking again. Quite a bit, in fact. I just did about 3,000 miles in a 10 day period. With two 900 mile days. One of those pulling a light uhaul trailer.
My leak seems to be related to these long summer trips. (we go back and forth to Colorado). I'll clean it up again. It is due for an oil change, but I think that I will put in the lubri moly stop leak and run it for a few hundred miles before the oil change. Or do you think I should change the oil first, then add the stop leak?
Frustrating. And my CEL came on today too. Haven't pulled the code yet. But running like a champ.
Sorry to hear that. I think I'd put the LubroMoly stop-leak in with the new oil, and if you're using 0W-40, I'd consider changing to a 5W-40 with A40 (Porsche approval.) One thought came to me - that at least on my Cayenne - my oil/air-separator has about 60,000 miles on it (it was replaced due to excessive oil use when the first owner owned the Cayenne.. there was a service campaign..) I'm just wondering if with the turbo it's possible that when the turbo is providing boost if it could also pressurize the crankcase? Especially if the diaphragm on the AOS has a leak of some sorts. And pressurizing the crankcase could certainly result in oil leaks. Just noodling it around in my head - I have to find a good diagram of the crankcase ventilation system for the turbo...
Sorry to hear that. I think I'd put the LubroMoly stop-leak in with the new oil, and if you're using 0W-40, I'd consider changing to a 5W-40 with A40 (Porsche approval.) One thought came to me - that at least on my Cayenne - my oil/air-separator has about 60,000 miles on it (it was replaced due to excessive oil use when the first owner owned the Cayenne.. there was a service campaign..) I'm just wondering if with the turbo it's possible that when the turbo is providing boost if it could also pressurize the crankcase? Especially if the diaphragm on the AOS has a leak of some sorts. And pressurizing the crankcase could certainly result in oil leaks. Just noodling it around in my head - I have to find a good diagram of the crankcase ventilation system for the turbo...
Thanks Don. I will add the stop lubro moly with new oil. I use Motul 5-40.
On these trips, I drive it hard ... usually cruise at 90-95 mph, lots of passing (hard acceleration), and many mountain passes. So the engine is working hard. My normal commuting, etc rarely gets into boost.
Where is the oil separator located? I will see if I can inspect it for leaks. This will be my weekend chore. And, fortunately, I have a lift.
Thanks Don. I will add the stop lubro moly with new oil. I use Motul 5-40.
On these trips, I drive it hard ... usually cruise at 90-95 mph, lots of passing (hard acceleration), and many mountain passes. So the engine is working hard. My normal commuting, etc rarely gets into boost.
Where is the oil separator located? I will see if I can inspect it for leaks. This will be my weekend chore. And, fortunately, I have a lift.
I think there are threads about it somewhere.. it's located on the top of the port side valve cover (cylinders 5-8).. The black round thingie mounted on the black plastic box. Thing is - to inspect it - you have to open it up. It's not exactly designed to be serviceable, but plenty of people have carefully pried the round top off (taking great care to not break the plastic that keeps it on) - and some have replaced the diaphragm in it.
Quick update on my oil leak issue. I changed the oil today and added the Lubro Moly stop leak. But I have a larger issue with oil leaks coming from the top of the engine. I see it in the valley under the plastic cover over the coils. Likely valve cover gaskets, which were replaced recently by the dealer. So back to the dealer it goes so they can check their work. From there, I will be able to determine if the RMS I leaking. I cleaned up a bunch of oil from the underside of the motor - and it was slung all the way back to rear of the car. Took a few cans of brake cleaner to clean it up. Argh.
Patrick - oil flows downhill - so chances are, if there is oil up high, and it's appearing down low - it's the same oil just at different points in its journey.. or you have a badly pressurized crankcase.
Patrick - oil flows downhill - so chances are, if there is oil up high, and it's appearing down low - it's the same oil just at different points in its journey.. or you have a badly pressurized crankcase.
Yes, that is my thought too. A leak on top of the engine is making its way down to the bottom of the motor then coating the underside of the vehicle. There is oil collecting on the passenger side engine valley just below the valve cover.
So that is actually good news, as the dealer has previously replace valve cover gaskets when they did the thermostat and they were at the front of the motor when they did the cam adjuster. I think all of that should still be in warranty. Curious that it only leaks when I go on the long, hard drives. I have a call into the dealer.
Patrick - what was found? Inquiring minds want to know..
I believe there is some sealant called for when replacing the valve cover gaskets at the joint between the timing chain cover and the head (the valve cover covers both. I know that's common on other vehicles. If the sealant isn't used it isn't unusual to see a slight weeping at those joints. And since oil flows downhill (and typically blown front to back) - it's possible that what appears to be a rear main seal leak could be a small valve cover leak.
Shop cleaned it up - top to bottom. And again confirmed it was a RMS leak. Could not find anything at the top of the engine after a few hundred miles. I'll keep checking and post up my results.
I did put it up on my lift over the weekend and see the leak out of the bottom of the crankcase. At this point, fixing it isn't worth the cost($3500 at dealer). If it gets worse, I might address it. I'll let the Lubro Moly work a while longer and perhaps use it again on the next oil change.
Shop cleaned it up - top to bottom. And again confirmed it was a RMS leak. Could not find anything at the top of the engine after a few hundred miles. I'll keep checking and post up my results.
I did put it up on my lift over the weekend and see the leak out of the bottom of the crankcase. At this point, fixing it isn't worth the cost($3500 at dealer). If it gets worse, I might address it. I'll let the Lubro Moly work a while longer and perhaps use it again on the next oil change.
Wow, truly sorry to hear that. I think products like Lubri Moly can be of benefit in certain specific instances, but probably not so much in the majority of cases? I dunno.
But anyway, I agree with you that spending thousands to fix what seems to be a pretty slow/minor leak is probably just not worth it at this point. If it becomes excessive over time, that's a different story.
Heck, I remember my small block Chevys back in the day (pre LS-series motors), it was almost considered normal for RMS leaks...just wipe the area clean with every oil change, part of the regular maintenance routine <sigh>. Of course those weren't $100k+ vehicles, but it's still annoying to have to live with for those of us OCD auto enthusiasts.
06-12-2018, 01:48 PM
