I was out of black ones... otherwise I would have. But if i have to replace it in another year or two... no biggie. the hard part is over.

 

Don, maybe we should hold a contest to see who can create the most colorful center bearing support Jimi-fixes using a rainbow of ty-rap colors.

Truthfully, if you're set on performing the JimiFix, I agree on using the black cable ties vs the white or clear units; provided of course that they have the metal tab inside (as XS29 mentioned). This will at least give you more mileage for your "fix"; although it'll probably cost you a few bucks more...

 

So I ordered a HD bush that would require taking the shaft out and replace and reinstall, I ended up doing this for 2 reasons, firstly I could not wait any longer for a part to arrive that had no significant improvements on the original, secondly I was not to keen on taking the exhaust off, repacking the CV joint and putting the thing back together. I don`t like quick fixes if they have no practical benifit on the end product, however after seeing the new bearing, its no aligned in any sense, the hose at least allows you to center the bearing in the holder, the original is either a fail or no-fail item, a hose can fall out and the repair will not give out on you. basically this is how they should of done it in the first place, bonded rubber and even equal supports around the bearing. I remember they did a similar design on the 944 auto that ripped apart in a similar manner. Just a plain bad design. good job for coming up with a fix that works and will last

 

Well. I did the Jimi fix on my CS. I changed the complete shaft back when I had 60K miles. I now have 150K miles. I was inspecting the shaft and found the the bushing was soft and the shaft had some movement. I look at the the bushing and it was cracked. So I decided to make a preemptive strike and do the fix.

But know I have a slight vibration. It comes on when I reach 55 mph. It's not that bad. It feels like I'm running 60 psi tire pressure. It goes away slightly as I go faster. Any ideas as to why I have the vibration? Do need to align or rebalance the shaft? Any and all help will be appreciated.

 

Alignment. Balance won't be changed at all by the Jimi fix. There is a Porsche part to align the driveshaft in the tunnel - it's a foam block that fits over the driveshaft and centers it in the tunnel.

Best bet for that - crawl underneath and loosen bolts - then try to align the heads with the original location pattern on the mounting bracket. Chances are it's slightly off horizontally - and with the stiffer mounting of the Jimi fix - the mount can't take up all of the off-center movement, so it's passing some through to the chassis.

I've also heard of people slightly loosening the bracket bolts and then turning a rear wheel by hand to rotate the driveshaft. After several rotations it probably will move into the desired position giving the least side to side movement. That's easier to do on a lift.

HTH,

 

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot.

 

Well... Here is an update and my observations.

After driving my CS with the Jimi fix for over a month, I decided to get a new driveshaft. I was still having the vibrations from 40-55 MPH. I was thinking about doing the ECS mount but I think a new driveshaft is better for me at this time. I'm in the pre-stages of getting Tommy John surgery and I can't wrench on my car. I'm going to get my Indie to replace the whole shaft.

IMO, the Jimi fix (JF) works. It may be a long term fix for some but it did not work for me. Its a great short term fix until you get the ECS mount or another shaft. Kudos to those that got the Jimi fix to work as a long term solution.

The one thing I noticed was that the vibration goes away after driving 20 mins. I surmised that the rubber hoses are stiff in the morning when cold. Once the car gets going, the warmth of the exhaust pipes soften the rubber hoses and allows the shaft to float easily. The thing is that my commute to work is 20 mins, so I always feel the vibrations. Morning traffic averages 50 MPH.

Cheers!

 

This why I exclusively specify nothing but 5/8" braided coolant hose 8x. The zip ties also does NOT need to be too tight, either. The beauty of how this works is simply by closely replicating the OEM rubber pliability... the Jimi fix should have zero NVH at all speeds.

 

Do you have pic of the 5/8" braided coolant hose?

 

Here it is.... in all its glory. Shown with the correct, Gates cutting tool and 1.25" slice: The internal Kevlar braiding prevents collapse.

 

I did use the 5/8 braided coolant hose from Napa. The one I bought is very stiff

 

Stiff means the hose has a high Silicone/composites content. I'm picky: I squeeze them each, before deciding what to buy. More rubber... the better.

 

Thanks.

 

Interesting...

This is the hose that the local Napa sold me. I specifically asked for 5/8" HEATER hose. They gave me this. Didn't bother checking. Although it is reinforced.

If it wasn't for my impending elbow surgery, I would get the heater hose and change them out to see if that was the problem.

 

No wonder...