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Got tired of plugging and unplugging under the dash, and not finding any switched 12v outlets (rear, center back seat, under passenger front seat or ash tray area) after multiple reports and me testing, none shut off after checking each one 20 minutes later.
Was able to bolt the ground to the crash bar with two 11mm wrenches, a short bolt, 2 washers, a ground loop and 2 nuts, one to tighten and another to lock it down so it wont back out.
Thought the first fuse point would work in the picture below, reading from a 958, it did not.
Then was able to find an un-used 12v switch fuse block point in Number #47.
This is all installed without cutting a single wire on the car, nor modifying anything, which I like.
Nice work. I installed a 12v outlet that has a dual USB in it in the plastic under the driver's seat which is where I plug in my phone to charge. Don't have to leave the ashtray cover open anymore.
Cool, you have any pics? I may go back and modify this one, its 10amp fused, so I can run a few more things off it.
It doesn't look like I do. Pig is at the body shop in the midst of the widebody kit install, but I may be up there on Friday and will try to remember to take a pic.
I am running my dashcam, valentine1, and the MOST converter box for my stereo from an add a fuse in on that same side. I used a screw down under the glove box for ground that I accessed by taking off the black cover in the passenger footwell. There are many spots you can tap into for switched power on that side. Nice to see another dash with the carbon fiber trim. I like the red stitching too!
There's an equal amount of room on both sides in a '17. At least for something like the in-line module. I didn't want to introduce the potential for loose sockets, corrosion or issues with heat dissipation that can come along with burying an accessory socket behind panels. Most of the time it's fine, but I had an adapter malfunction some time ago and I'm not eager to have that happen again.
I've yet to find a power take off point for the radio's "lingering" supply. As in, be able to stay running for the same extended interval as the PCM. On the left fuse panel there's only constantly-powered or tied to the ignition being in the started position (not just the 1st click).
There's an equal amount of room on both sides in a '17. At least for something like the in-line module. I didn't want to introduce the potential for loose sockets, corrosion or issues with heat dissipation that can come along with burying an accessory socket behind panels. Most of the time it's fine, but I had an adapter malfunction some time ago and I'm not eager to have that happen again.
I've yet to find a power take off point for the radio's "lingering" supply. As in, be able to stay running for the same extended interval as the PCM. On the left fuse panel there's only constantly-powered or tied to the ignition being in the started position (not just the 1st click).
Nice, I thought about doing that, cheaped out though
Nice, I thought about doing that, cheaped out though
I was surprised to find something exactly like that for so little money. I'm sure there's something wretchedly inefficient about the design or something but it's working great thus far.
I'd still like to find a place in the wiring to tie into the radio's power or at least into the same 30 minute cut off circuit that the outlets have. Which, tangentially, I've confirmed, does cut off and stay off after 30 minutes. Although I suppose I'll have to revisit the fuses, I may have overlooked whether the circuit for them is handled ahead of the fuse or not.
Got tired of plugging and unplugging under the dash, and not finding any switched 12v outlets (rear, center back seat, under passenger front seat or ash tray area) after multiple reports and me testing, none shut off after checking each one 20 minutes later.
Was able to bolt the ground to the crash bar with two 11mm wrenches, a short bolt, 2 washers, a ground loop and 2 nuts, one to tighten and another to lock it down so it wont back out.
Thought the first fuse point would work in the picture below, reading from a 958, it did not.
Then was able to find an un-used 12v switch fuse block point in Number #47.
This is all installed without cutting a single wire on the car, nor modifying anything, which I like.
Toureg- great write up! Followed it to a T and installed this dash cam and a Bluetooth radio adapter which I hid in the lower passenger well. Now I have visual and tunes that shut off and on with ignition these forums are awesome. Thanks!
Got tired of plugging and unplugging under the dash, and not finding any switched 12v outlets (rear, center back seat, under passenger front seat or ash tray area) after multiple reports and me testing, none shut off after checking each one 20 minutes later.
Was able to bolt the ground to the crash bar with two 11mm wrenches, a short bolt, 2 washers, a ground loop and 2 nuts, one to tighten and another to lock it down so it wont back out.
Thought the first fuse point would work in the picture below, reading from a 958, it did not.
Then was able to find an un-used 12v switch fuse block point in Number #47.
This is all installed without cutting a single wire on the car, nor modifying anything, which I like.
Toureg - great write up! Followed it to a T and installed this dash cam and a Bluetooth radio adapter which I hid in the lower passenger well. Now I have visual and tunes that shut off and on with ignition these forums are awesome. Thanks!
08-29-2016, 04:06 PM
957 Switched 12v outlet install for Dashcam
