Battery tested
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I got my battery tested at Pep Boys via the jumper terminals. Just wondering if it's accurate or if I should bother to pull the battery to have it connected to the tester directly. BTW, I am not experiencing any battery related issues at all except for my nav/stereo acting up, so I wanted to check the battery before pulling the head unit. Here's my test results via jumper hookups:
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Since it is a starter jumper connection, there is plenty of gauge to the cable at the positive side of the jumper point to support the test. At this point I would be suspicious of the battery, but, I would certainly get it properly charged before testing it again and making the keep or replace decision. You should also check that the alternator is putting out proper voltage when the car is running.
You can charge it using the jumper connections.
Do you have any idea how old the battery is?
You can charge it using the jumper connections.
Do you have any idea how old the battery is?
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Since it is a starter jumper connection, there is plenty of gauge to the cable at the positive side of the jumper point to support the test. At this point I would be suspicious of the battery, but, I would certainly get it properly charged before testing it again and making the keep or replace decision. You should also check that the alternator is putting out proper voltage when the car is running. You can charge it using the jumper connections. Do you have any idea how old the battery is?
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7 years for a battery, even AGM, is sporty. I've heard of one that made it to 8 years on one of the forums. Vehicles with a lot of interdependent electrical systems, like ours, need proper voltages or the systems and subsystems start doing screwy stuff. It appears that no two cars will behave the same, except, misbehave.
I know the PIWIS can read if there are have been any low voltage events. Not sure about Durametric. I think it's worth a look at maybe the battery is approaching the end of its useful life. Lot's of good AGM options out there that are far less expensive than the dealer's. Put a good charge on it using a charger designed for AGMs and have it tested again if you want to be sure, otherwise, change that bad boy out based on the earlier test results.
Keep us posted.
I know the PIWIS can read if there are have been any low voltage events. Not sure about Durametric. I think it's worth a look at maybe the battery is approaching the end of its useful life. Lot's of good AGM options out there that are far less expensive than the dealer's. Put a good charge on it using a charger designed for AGMs and have it tested again if you want to be sure, otherwise, change that bad boy out based on the earlier test results.
Keep us posted.
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Replaced the battery, radio still not working. But now my PSM is off and is non responsive to the button on the dash. Fuse is good. Any ideas?
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I've had the car for a while but just recently started working on it a bit myself, so I'm not completely familiar with it. I appreciate the tips.