spooltime

I had the same thought, but had no luck in finding just the bushing.

CarreraCup03

In the last two weekends I have changed the tranny , diffs, and transfer case fluids, spark plugs, and the torque bar. The torque bar was the most noticeable change. car is smooth as silk now.

stormy69

The owner of polybushings.com is a friend, I plan to talk to him about this.

0x00

bump-been a while, I have one torque link sitting here with bad bushing. was looking for bushings instead of recycling, and stumbled upon them. so far, this is the only place I have seen them. Not sure if they are Asian import or not, hopefully leomforder. can't tell from pix.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-200....5L/ES2794814/

says 'brand: Hamburg Technic' on the page. probably the same as the infamous Deutsche Parts? Anyone know how legit ECS is?

the links are cheap, around $100 for a genuine one. I was hoping to keep my old out out of recycle, and/or swap it back so I don't have a black one (new=black, old=natural aluminum).

$36 is high for two bushings. and criminal if they aren't the real stuff.

Chico Mann

Hi all, reviving an old thread...

My PIG was running fine, but while changing the plugs I notice the bushings were cracked. I installed a torque strut from ECS and now I have heavy vibration at low and higher speeds.

The strut was difficult to install as the bolt through the engine bracket didn't align well. It seemed the engine had somehow settled a bit lower. After much fanagling I got it mounted, but I have about 5 millimeters of play at the point where the strut attaches to the chassis. Is this normal? It seems like this is would be the source of my problems.

I can't image my problems would be associated with the aftermarket unit itself, but maybe others have had a similar experience?

Any help would be much appreciated.

phatz

You can run them on a Toyota budget ...well at least some of the drivetrain

Dilberto

Filled the entire OEM torque strut bushing cavities with 3M Windo-Weld on both ends and sides. Windo-Weld is a fast-drying, urethane sealer with a Shore hardness of 87 Durometer. The low-speed shudder and dip in rpms coming to a stop has completely disappeared. Stop the madness with cheap, black aftermarket struts and gouging yourself with the original Porsche part. Having his addressed sooner than later will invariably save your motor mounts:

asifallasleep

Hey Dilberto,

Thanks for this amazing tip. I cancelled my order for the $210 torque dampener today and ordered some 3m Windo-Weld. Will try this mod by Wednesday. Polyurethane should by way way more durable than rubber.

Dilberto

^ Get a caulking gun and shoot the Windo-Weld inside the bushing cavities, until the glob rises slightly above the bushing edge. Use strips of paper bag and lots of Latex gloves to smear and compress the urethane in a circular manner, so the dried solution will sit flush and fill the entire bushing cavity. This will cure, to create a 3x solid base. Do this to both ends. Jimi told me this even reinforces the Cardan Shaft, if done pre-emptively!

Turbo owners - this is the cheapest, preventative to extend life of the motor mounts. Once fully cured - the 700rpm decel shudder is completely eliminated....for the mere cost of 20 bones.

95_993

Dilberto,

Is the 3M window weld just was easy to "cut out" of the cardan shaft support if it eventually fails? Curious as I like the idea, but don't know which is better....Jimi Fix preemptively or Widow Weld early stage

Dilberto

Jimi Sez: "shoot the 3M Windo-Weld inside all the Cardan Shaft bearing support rubber "folds." This reinforces them, preventing cracks and eventual failure. The 3M urethane is easy to excise with hobby knife."

oldskewel

I did this Windo Weld repair just now. My torque arm at 102k was intact, but cracked in the thinner sections. No problematic symptoms, so this was just a pre-emptive repair based on seeing the cracks in the rubber.

A couple of things I did differently:
- I noticed the center of the bushing bolt-hole had displaced from the center of the bushing in general. So I used some heavy wire and vise grips to adjust it back to dead center and hold it there until the Windo-Weld dried (overnight).
- I used cut up old gift cards / credit cards as smooth, disposable little shapers to make a smooth surface on there
- I did not fill all the way to the top of the outer shell (Magnesium, I think, on my original arm), just to the top of the rubber that was in there originally.
- the smaller bushing was fine so I did not touch that end at all

Not very messy, actually, since I used the tip that cam with the tube, without cutting it more than the pre-cut hole which was probably about 0.1 inch.

Torque values for both bolts is 60 Nm.

I figure I absolutely no-way made anything worse, and this probably fixed it permanently. We'll see about the second one.

So thanks again Dilberto for the great idea.

Hey also, I've got about 9 oz of this Window Weld left in the 10 oz tube. Any other ideas good uses for it before it all hardens up over time?

vandal968

I bought just the bushings, not the whole arm from ECS. It's HambergTechnic, or whatever. 5 mins with the shop press to swap them out, works fine. Looks 1,000,000x better than the hard, cracked, broken German parts that it replaced. Been in since Sept or so, still fine. Feel pretty good about the $38 or so I spent on it.

cheers,
c

Dan87951

I purchased a DEA torque arm for about half the price of OEM. Since I wasn't impressed with the durability of the OEM part I figured I had nothing to lose. When I received the DEA part I'm almost certain it's the same as OEM. The only difference is it comes in a different box and they take a grinder and grind away the OEM markings. It's been 2 years since I installed this part and so far so good.

seankrider

Excellent fix, Zachary!! So glad I stumbled upon this... I was crying seeing how much the OEM torque arms are (stabilizer bars). And the cheap ones look... cheap.

JIMI for PRESIDENT!!
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