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Once you do it, it becomes a 5 minute job if you need to do it again on the other side. I did mine with washers instead of buying the shims which are $35/ea, and it turned out perfectly both times (had to do passenger and driver door at different times). Just remove the 2 bolts which are not very tight, add washers by lifting the door slightly with a jack and block of wood not on the door skin but on the flat underside of the door itself (or have a buddy lift it slightly), tighten the 2 screws back up into their original lateral positions (note this based on the paint indentations) and check the door fit. It's amazing the prices charged to do this. And also surprising that it is not covered as a CPO warrantable item.
Regarding the question above - the shim goes between the door itself and the hinge plate that's attached to the car. You'll be able to see it once you take out the bolts and see how the door can be lifted creating space between the door and the hinge part.
^^^this.
'06 CTTS. My driver's door was sagging, but only when opened. I had a new door latch mechanism installed, so when I slammed the sagging door shut, the fresh new latch and the door's momentum would lift the door up flush w the back door. When almost closed, the door was sagging about 4-6mm. Closing it took a pretty good pull, made a loud bang, and it was annoying and probably causing wear and damage to the latch and banging the door pretty good which leads to rattles.
I bought the $35 shim kit and a set of star sockets (or whatever they're called--you only need the sz 8). It comes w three shims of different thicknesses which combine (S, M, L, SML, SM, SL, ML) to make different thicknesses.
I held up the door w the small $h*tty car jack from my wife's Nissan with a piece of cardboard to protect the door paint, took out the bottom bolt, loosened the top bolt maybe 3/8 of an inch, turned the jack a couple turns which created space to put in the shims, slid the M+S shims in, and partially retightened. Worked perfectly first close test, so I fully tightened the bolts.
Door shuts smoothly and perfectly now. What a difference! Took 10 minutes, and I don't even change my own oil...
So both my front doors are lower than the front top edge of the rear door, exactly the same amount, and the gap all around the doors are even (along the Front and back vertical gaps) so if i shim the door the gap could get uneven. Its almost like its supposed to be this way? Anyones similar?
The hinges ate solid, not worn or loose at all.
Also, if you shim, do you need too adjust the door strike?
The drivers door (right hand side for me in the UK) has dropped a few mm, visible where it meets the front of the rear door, and I cant help think a slight amount of wind noise at m/way speed is due to this, does anyone have a procedure and tools / parts list for adjusting the door to realign it but also possibly tilt it back up to seal it better along the A pillar please?
Thanks
Carl
YouTube video explains how to and a set for around $50.00, having my front doors adjusted this weekend, should open & close like new and eliminate high speed wind noise! Money well spent!
05-29-2017, 11:50 PM
