carlos50

Hi all

The drivers door (right hand side for me in the UK) has dropped a few mm, visible where it meets the front of the rear door, and I cant help think a slight amount of wind noise at m/way speed is due to this, does anyone have a procedure and tools / parts list for adjusting the door to realign it but also possibly tilt it back up to seal it better along the A pillar please?

Thanks

Carl

JAGMAN1

There is a TSB for this. Porsche sells a shim kit. It's relatively inexpensive. I used stainless washers (I had them available and didn't have to wait for the kit to arrive) and have struggled to get the alignment right ever since. The wind noise is actually worse now than it was before. The challenge is once you loosen the hinge bolts, the door moves in several different directions, getting things adjusted correctly at the end is hard to do.

In fact I just took a 1200 mile road trip this past weekend and think I've finally got the noise sorted. Took 2 years.

Dennis C

I had my dealer do this for me. He had it done in one day and it solved the problem.

carlos50

One day, that will be around $1,500 at UK labour rates

I will ask for a quote given that it sounds difficult?

Dennis C

Wow...that's expensive! Fortunately for me, mine was covered under warranty.

CdnRD

I had it done at a local body shop for $75 Cdn, an hour's shop rate. No shims were required. Any competent body shop should be able to do it.

carlos50

Had a price from Porsche dealer @ $35 for the shim kit and about $220 for the work on one door, passenger side seems pretty well aligned so was thinking of just getting the drivers side done.

Local body shop actually wanted more, possibly worried about taking it on?

racer_65

Bump. Just did this job in 20 minutes. Fixed the wind noise. Don't pay $220 to the Stealer.

Buy the shim kit for $35 (or pm me if you want to buy my spare for less) and do it yourself. You only need to shim the lower hinge. Remove the lower bolt and back out the upper bolt half way (M8 triple square bit). The door stays on during the whole procedure. For extra safety, put a hydraulic jack under the door (with a piece of wood in between) while you work.

carlos50

Thanks for the advice, will take a look, was nervous removing both bolts so great to hear its only the bottom one.

I live in the UK so its not going to work buying the spare shim you have but thanks for offering.

racer_65

See this diagram. The upper hole of the shim is open ended, therefore the top bolt does not need to come off.

I think as long as you support the door with a hydraulic jack, it does not hurt anything even if you take both bolts out.

Another tip is to put masking tape around the hinge, so that you know exactly where it's positioned before.

carlos50

Could you send me a picture or 2 of where these shims go please? Im the type of person who can do the task but need to see it first

garrett376

Once you do it, it becomes a 5 minute job if you need to do it again on the other side. I did mine with washers instead of buying the shims which are $35/ea, and it turned out perfectly both times (had to do passenger and driver door at different times). Just remove the 2 bolts which are not very tight, add washers by lifting the door slightly with a jack and block of wood not on the door skin but on the flat underside of the door itself (or have a buddy lift it slightly), tighten the 2 screws back up into their original lateral positions (note this based on the paint indentations) and check the door fit. It's amazing the prices charged to do this. And also surprising that it is not covered as a CPO warrantable item.

Regarding the question above - the shim goes between the door itself and the hinge plate that's attached to the car. You'll be able to see it once you take out the bolts and see how the door can be lifted creating space between the door and the hinge part.

carlos50

Hi, I'm going to use anodised washers like you, what size & thickness did you use please? I'm not sure what size the bolts are that's all, M8 triple square bit right?

bekks

I have a question about the shims. Anyone know how thick they are? I'm looking to make my own with some sheet metal I have at home.

nodoors

It is going to vary from car to car depending on how much it sags. Most cars are 1 or 2 washers to get them right unless you put this off way too long and are having alignment issues.

You can measure using washers that fit the M8 bolt and if you don't think that fix is solid enough, make your full sized shim the same thickness in the meantime.