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A/C blower fan malfunction

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Old 09-15-2014, 11:36 PM
  #16  
red95993
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Default Help!

Been trying to get my new blower fan back in for half an hour now...the box that it attaches to keeps flexing when I try to slide the new one in. I just can't get it seated.

Any suggestions? Keep trying?
Old 09-15-2014, 11:47 PM
  #17  
mudman2
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Just keep at it, awkward but it will go
Old 09-15-2014, 11:52 PM
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red95993
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Success!

Thanks, just had to be patient. I think the problem is I just started wearing glasses and couldn't really see what I was doing. I finally just closed my eyes and felt my way through it. Kind of like the first time you try to unhook your girlfriends bra...once you relax it is easy.

Last edited by red95993; 09-16-2014 at 12:38 AM. Reason: Success
Old 09-16-2014, 01:02 AM
  #19  
racer_65
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You can get this part on eBay for $88 now. I think the OEM unit is way overpriced. It's like not it's a quality product anyways, or else it wouldn't be broken.
Old 09-16-2014, 03:05 AM
  #20  
red95993
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My OEM unit was $250 from Sunset...made in Czech Republic with a VW stamp on it. I saw the other units for less, a mechanic friend recommended I stick with OEM in case of problems, not sure I agree now. Could have saved $160 or so...

Local indy wanted $700-$800 to replace it.
Old 09-16-2014, 11:20 AM
  #21  
cordsig79
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As a fyi, I got a new blower motor from the dealer a year back. Did the replacement. Out of nowhere a loud audilbe crack happened in my car and my blower AC motor came on full bore and kept blowing even with the car off.

It ran down the battery in an hour or so and I thought my control module above the ashtray was shot since I already replaced the fan.

Wrong, the OEM replacement fan from my dealer in Dallas blew a resistor......melted my wiring harness and I had spend about a $1700 to get a donor harness spliced in behind the dash....Later I discovered, my fog lamps or where the wiring goes into the engine is still cooked, another 1k to get it fixed so my fog lamps will work. The workshop did replace the resistor.

This is the only SNAFU I have had with the P!G.
Old 11-22-2014, 02:39 PM
  #22  
khowell
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Just did mine. Seriously easy. Literally took longer to move the cars around the garage and sweep out some slush than it did to do the job. I got the replacement fan on Amazon from Evan Fisher in LaSalle, IL. About $83, with very fast shipping and bullet proof packaging.

One thing to look out for: the screw threads must go straight in to engage the plastic barrel screwholes. The first one I put in was skewed off to the side. You can tell if the flange on the screw isn't dead flat against the flange.
Old 09-17-2015, 05:34 PM
  #23  
tifosiv122
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I'd like to thank everyone on this thread. My Turbo S's front blower died a few weeks ago - out of curiosity I called the local dealer - one month wait (that is how busy they are) and approx. $2,000 parts & labor. I purchased the motor new on eBay for $99.99 and the install took less than 15 minutes. One note - the OEM blower had 7 screws and the el-cheapo from ebay only had 6. Works perfectly.

Thanks,
Erik
Old 10-16-2015, 08:29 AM
  #24  
terry07
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I have taken out the fan and cleaned and lubricated my heater/ac fan which worked well for a few days but now if I press the demist button fan comes on for about 10 secs then stops! Ive changed the regulator and still the same problem though if I select half /low fan speed it works fine,any ideas on a fix and am I looking at a new fan purchase to cure the fault?
Old 10-16-2015, 11:05 AM
  #25  
Shawn Stanford
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It seems like the logical next step.
Old 06-08-2016, 01:32 AM
  #26  
Monroe Turbo-S
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Smile Heater Blower motor repair

My 2006 Cayenne blower was bad when I bought the car. I removed blower and found the brushes totally worn down and the bearing binding. I removed the blower cage, which is just pressed onto the shaft by supporting the cage on the edges and driving the shaft down out of the cage. The brush assemble is then easily removed and the old brushes removed.
I used "starter" brushes which came with the copper lead attached. Shaped with a Dremel tool to fit the holder. I used a 1/8 copper ring cut from copper tubing the crimp the brush lead back onto the resistor lead. Then to cut down on a long break-in, shaped the contact to match the curve of the commutator.
I cleaned the commutator with fine sandpaper to clean it up.
Next I lubricated the bearings with 10W/30 oil and ran for an hour on the bench and then re-oiled. Reinstalled the blower cage and reinstalled in the car.
Slight whine from the brushes, but they will seat soon.
Total cost $15 for the brushes and 2 hours of my time. Sorry I didn't think to take pics.
Old 01-11-2017, 01:32 AM
  #27  
Orantes
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Reading the above post, I assume it is actually possible to push the plastic blower cage off the motor shaft? I can't seem to get it done without damage.

I have a new blower unit, however the unit I purchased was actually for a left hand drive vehicle when I have a right hand drive motor.....The vanes on this LHD blower cage are backwards and the entire blower housing is mirror reverse. I can easily fit the new motor into my existing housing, but the vanes on the cage are angled incorrectly. Basically, I need to take the blower cage off my old motor and insert it onto the new motor.

.....I wrongly assumed that a single blower unit would fit all Cayennes when I ordered a bunch of parts from the USA about 12 months ago. Should have checked the part numbers! It happens. BTW, these blower units cost $650 here in Australia so (at the time) it was worth taking the risk and importing for a fraction of the cost.
Old 04-24-2017, 05:32 PM
  #28  
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Bump. '06 TTS here. I seem to need the same now.Mine just up and quit blowing in the front. I've been hearing some squeaks, two different ones so I'm assuming one was the blower. But it never became intermittent, just all of a sudden stopped. At this time rear blower is working fine but no cold air, or barely cold air, but the air from the rear did seem to dehumidify the cabin enough to get me home. The AC compressor is only three years old as well so I'm assuming it's fine, and that we need the front blower to move cold air for the rear somehow as well? Just sent the ebay seller a note, will get the blower motor and regulator. But do these symptoms track with the diagnosis?
Old 04-24-2017, 05:53 PM
  #29  
Andy E.
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Most of the time, they start to squeal or hum prior to failing. The main problem with these motors is the bearings. Once they start to seize up, the motor will usually stop working until it cools off and then it will start again.

I recently purchased mine from a very reputable E-Bay auto parts seller. The part was dirt cheap and they claim a 10-year warranty. Yes, the part is made in China but the build quality is very high. It's obvious that they are the OEM supplier; as the area where the PAG/VW logos usually show on the plastic casing were removed (at the plastic injection mould level). I did end up saving over $400 by buying through this seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131237544699

For the time being, and before you replace the blower motor, activate your ECONO button so that your A/C compressor doesn't function and freeze up the evaporator coil. Also, keep your fan switch set to OFF so that you don't blow a fuse or burn something else. A locked rotor on a motor will push your amperage level high enough to create all sorts of problems.
Old 04-24-2017, 06:13 PM
  #30  
ProgRockJunkie
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Originally Posted by Andy E.
Most of the time, they start to squeal or hum prior to failing. The main problem with these motors is the bearings. Once they start to seize up, the motor will usually stop working until it cools off and then it will start again.

I recently purchased mine from a very reputable E-Bay auto parts seller. The part was dirt cheap and they claim a 10-year warranty. Yes, the part is made in China but the build quality is very high. It's obvious that they are the OEM supplier; as the area where the PAG/VW logos usually show on the plastic casing were removed (at the plastic injection mould level). I did end up saving over $400 by buying through this seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131237544699

For the time being, and before you replace the blower motor, activate your ECONO button so that your A/C compressor doesn't function and freeze up the evaporator coil. Also, keep your fan switch set to OFF so that you don't blow a fuse or burn something else. A locked rotor on a motor will push your amperage level high enough to create all sorts of problems.
THANKS!!!

My first inclination of course was to push them both to the highest possible speed to try to get anything out of it. It's garaged now and the parts are on order. I'll have to get by with the '01 911, which by chance just got a brand new air box. Ain't out of warranty cars grand. I love them, love keeping good cars alive. But on the raggedy edge here, need reliable transportation and it's rainy season in VA.


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