medent

About two weeks ago I noticed that the rear wiper on my 2006 Cayenne S was slowing down. Then yesterday it stopped completely in the middle of the arc. I did a search but nothing came up. Anyone else experienced this? And if so, what was the reason and the solution?
Thanks.

TozoM8

I would open the glass and see if it moves by hand.

Andy E.

There are two possibilities: 1) The crank drive attached to the motor ***'y has jammed with insulation material or is seized and requires lubricant, 2) The motor ***'y bearings have seized.

First thing to do is to pull the fuse before your fry the motor. Unfortunately, the fuse will not always fail if the motor jams.

Open the rear glass panel. If you can easily operate the wiper by hand, the problem lies with the motor. Unless you're a machinist or expert technician, the motor is a non-serviceable item.

The crank drive is available as a separate component.

medent

I did as suggested and opened the hatch to see if the blade then moved freely. It was very tight so I sprayed (as best I could) into the shaft area with WD40. And after numerous swings back and forth the wiper started to move more easily. So I then shut the hatch and tried the switch. The wiper worked again!!
But for how long? I suppose the best thing to do would be to remove the wiper and lubricate the internal portions. But after undoing the nut, the wiper was still firmly attached. Probably corroded in place. Any suggestions to remove it that don't involve breaking the glass?

Andy E.

The best way to remove a wiper arm from the splined stem is with a special wiper arm puller (available at NAPA or CDN Tire). You can also hand rock the arm left-to-right until it loosens up. Don't use a screw driver or other instrument as a pry bar otherwise you'll risk breaking the glass. Once the arm is off, you can remove the plastic trim piece and the crank drive for a better inspection.

Andy E.

Reviving an old thread on an interesting subject. This happened to me last week during a severe rainstorm where the linkage simply seized in place and prevented the motor from doing it's job.

The problem lies with salt spray during winter months that seeps thru the opening on the rear glass hatch switch ***'y. The salt attacks the rear wiper arm crank linkage; made of a white metal alloy. As the crank linkage housing becomes severly corroded, it expands and cracks the plastic switch ***'y housing.

To fix this, you'll need the following parts:

1) Rear wiper crank drive P/N: 955 628 090 05
2) 18mm retaining nut P/N: N 021 2845
3) Rear wiper switch kit P/N: 955 628 320 03

The procedure is simple:
1) Pop off the switch housing cap and remove the 10mm nut holding down the wiper arm
2) Gently rock the arm at the base until loose. You may want to spray a liberal amount of loose-nut onto the shaft since there definitely will be corrosion in this area. Also, a wiper arm puller will save you much frustration. DO NOT try to pry the arm off as you'll risk breaking the glass hatch.
3) Remove the 18mm retaining nut. If the crank linkage housing is badly corroded, it will break off; leaving bits of white metal everywhere. For this reason, you may need a new retaining nut
4) Open the rear glass hatch and pop off the decorative panel using a trim removal bar
5) Unplug the electrical switch connector & remove two 13mm nuts from crank drive
6) Move motor wire connector forward into cabin and twist-tie it so that you can have access to it later; should the rear glass hatch inadvertently shut while doing this procedure. You'll thank me for this later...
5) Installation is reverse of the above. Before re-installing the wiper arm, close the hatch and cycle the rear wiper motor so that the motor will return to it's parked position.
6) So as not to lose the switch cap, dab a liberal portion of silicone adhesive to the inside of the cap and snap in place

trevorc

Follow up to this as I am trying to get the wiper arm assembly removed as the crank mechanism is jamming (after trying a replacement motor and seeing that the crank is jumping out) and not having much success. I have tried (as written in a previous post) rocking the assembly back and forth with not much succees, so after a frustrating hour of that I did pick up this tool to see if it would help:



However it does not slip into place. Is it suppose to slip under where the arrow is?


The 10mm bolt has snapped off, but should be able to still slide the assembly off.

So would this be ok to use this puller :


Thanks for any assistance !

Andy E.

Use a dental pick to scrape away the rusted particles between the broken shaft stud and the wiper arm base. Then saturate the gap with penetrating liquid (Loose nut) with repeated applications and leave for several hours.

There's a very good chance that the switch housing will be chewed up like mine was and will need replacement. For this reason, I would use a small milling attachment on a Dremel and remove enough plastic material between the switch housing and the wiper arm base so that you could get the wiper arm removal tool wedged between the two. If you don't own a Dremel, use a sharp hobby knife.

Don't try drilling the shaft stud as this would surely be a recipe for disaster. The key purpose here is not to break the glass. Everything else is relatively inexpensive to replace.

racer_65

Reviving this old thread. My rear wiper doesn't move. When invoking the rear wiper only the sprayer works. I have done the following:
- Replaced the rear wiper motor
- Replaced the micro switch
- Check the 30 amp rear wiper fuse, and confirmed it is not blown
- Confirmed the crank moves freely. Checked it with the wiper motor removed

How else can be wrong? Some electrical issue?

racer_65

By the way, in reference to the above questions regarding the puller. None of those pullers will fit. You simply have to rock the wiper arm back and forth until it frees up.

Andy E.

Have you verified that voltage is in fact getting to the motor?

racer_65

Took it to the dealer. Turned out it was a faulty rear hatch control unit: part #955-618-029-04. As a result, the wiring harness is not able to communicate with the wiper motor. Paid dearly for the fix, but I would never have been able to diagnose this problem myself.

Let it be known. The defective part is made in Germany, by Hella.

Andy E.

I decided to revive an old thread based on the removal of the rear wiper arm. This is the 2nd time that I'm removing the part however, this time around was due to the tension spring snapping off the internal plastic catch within the arm base.

I could have drilled it and set in a steel retaining pin, as was performed by RSbob here: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...r-arm-fix.html . However, since the arm itself can be had for under $40 at the dealer, I decided to purchase a new one rather than repair it. The problem lies with removing the arm, as corrosion sets in between the conical arm spline and the wiper shaft. Extreme care has to be exercised in not breaking the rear hatch glass when removing this part.

I found that by simply cutting a portion of the plastic base with a hacksaw, there's enough room to slide in a standard wiper arm puller to remove the arm base from the shaft.

Using a hacksaw, cut into the base on an angle. Try to avoid cutting into the steel portion that's molded into the plastic. Opening the hatch slightly will prevent any contact between the hacksaw handle and the rear plastic trim below the glass.

A standard wiper arm puller can be purchased online or from any auto parts retailer.

Slide the puller into the cavity. Loosen the retaining nut holding down the arm a few turns to allow movement. Screw down the tool's axle into the center of the retaining nut. If extreme corrosion is present, you'll have to tighten hard for the arm base to pop up.

Magdaddy

My turn to discover the problem…when the rear wiper does work, it makes one hell of a metal to metal clunk. That’s for the detail in this thread, gives me a great starting point.

Magdaddy

I suspect it is the motor itself…does anyone know if an Audi Q7, or Touareg motor is compatible?

Naturally they are 1/2 the price of the Pcar part…

thanks