03-06 Cayenne Cardan Shaft (aka drive shaft) Replacement DIY
02-13-2013, 05:12 PM
#1
03-06 Cayenne Cardan Shaft (aka drive shaft) Replacement DIY
This will work on all sub models of the car for the year range.
I had a chance to work on replacing my cardan shaft, as the one in the car gave me the famous symptoms of 'midget in console banging with a hammer'.
Important things to remember:
- replace flex disc at same time (worn out shaft bearing will cause wobble that in turn stresses the rubber disc out when you drive - I inspected mine and there were cracks when looking closely)
- take your time, no rush
- follow each step in sequence
- read each step completely before doing the work for that. There are things that will speed your work once you are aware of them.
If you do not normally work on cars, no problem. Expect about half a day worth of work.
If you work on cars already and are a DIY person, expect about 2 hrs worth of work.
Expected cost savings by DIY: about $1200 - $1400 total.
REPLACEMENT PARTS INFO:
1. Drive shaft - purchased from www.coloradodriveshaft.com - cost: $475 including $100 charge for core (you get that money back after you return
your old/bad part). Nice thing is that they provide a pre-paid and pre-addressed label for UPS, which you put on the shipping box you receive to
ship old part back, and they do hi speed balance the shafts as well.
They state that their shafts are much sturdier than originals, and will not fail, but I have no way to verify that.
2. Flex disc - purchased from ebay - cost: $90 shipped.
3. Rear drive shaft bolts - I did not replace mine with new ones, just made
sure to tighten them up nice (tightened to 10 ft-lbs more than in spec)...seemed all fine, even with their coating. Service manual calls for replacement of these bolts though, so the call is yours.
QUESTIONS/ANSWERS SECTION:
1.
Q: A question - was there any concern with centering the center bearing in the tunnel? Porsche has a special tool for this (basically looks like a big foam block the fits the tunnel and the driveshaft to make sure it's running true and straight. My plan if I need to do this is to mark the location of the mounting plate under the car, and reinstall it in the same spot (and bolt up the bearing assembly to the same spot on that plate.)
A: I address porsche tool (to align bearing) in picture 11 and 12.
If you have the tool, great. If not, you can still do it.
Without tool, you have to ensure that you bolt the bearing to bracket as the last thing in this DIY. You make sure you affix the bracket back into same location you took it out of (making marks around edges and bolts).
Tighten the 6 bolts to spec (in pics). Then you put in the two bolts for the bearing but make sure they are nice and very loose. Then, reach up into the space and move the shaft and bearing in up/down then left/right motions (move it in all directions).
Observe where the bearing settles by noting where the bolts stop on bracket. Do this a few times and you will see that they will settle same spot. Remember, the bracket is what aligns the bearing up/down. The porsche tool does not align that. Also, after you have tightened down the rear and front of shaft, and after the bracket is in, the only way for the bearing bushing to go is sideways. Since it has 2 bolts, the sideways motion is not that much. By reaching and moving it up, you allow the bushing to settle in its natural position (least strain). After you note where the bolts rest, take a flat screwdriver and mark the bolt positions on the bracket (do this so that during torquing down you do not affix to improper position - important as this is where most screw ups will occur).
After marking the bolt positions, take your socket and gently start tightening both bolts few turns each. When they are snug, make sure they align with the marks you made and continue to torque down until they no longer move out of their positions. Then just torque down to spec (in pics) and you are done. Bearing aligned and job finished.
Thanks again.
I had a chance to work on replacing my cardan shaft, as the one in the car gave me the famous symptoms of 'midget in console banging with a hammer'.
Important things to remember:
- replace flex disc at same time (worn out shaft bearing will cause wobble that in turn stresses the rubber disc out when you drive - I inspected mine and there were cracks when looking closely)
- take your time, no rush
- follow each step in sequence
- read each step completely before doing the work for that. There are things that will speed your work once you are aware of them.
If you do not normally work on cars, no problem. Expect about half a day worth of work.
If you work on cars already and are a DIY person, expect about 2 hrs worth of work.
Expected cost savings by DIY: about $1200 - $1400 total.
REPLACEMENT PARTS INFO:
1. Drive shaft - purchased from www.coloradodriveshaft.com - cost: $475 including $100 charge for core (you get that money back after you return
your old/bad part). Nice thing is that they provide a pre-paid and pre-addressed label for UPS, which you put on the shipping box you receive to
ship old part back, and they do hi speed balance the shafts as well.
They state that their shafts are much sturdier than originals, and will not fail, but I have no way to verify that.
2. Flex disc - purchased from ebay - cost: $90 shipped.
3. Rear drive shaft bolts - I did not replace mine with new ones, just made
sure to tighten them up nice (tightened to 10 ft-lbs more than in spec)...seemed all fine, even with their coating. Service manual calls for replacement of these bolts though, so the call is yours.
QUESTIONS/ANSWERS SECTION:
1.
Q: A question - was there any concern with centering the center bearing in the tunnel? Porsche has a special tool for this (basically looks like a big foam block the fits the tunnel and the driveshaft to make sure it's running true and straight. My plan if I need to do this is to mark the location of the mounting plate under the car, and reinstall it in the same spot (and bolt up the bearing assembly to the same spot on that plate.)
A: I address porsche tool (to align bearing) in picture 11 and 12.
If you have the tool, great. If not, you can still do it.
Without tool, you have to ensure that you bolt the bearing to bracket as the last thing in this DIY. You make sure you affix the bracket back into same location you took it out of (making marks around edges and bolts).
Tighten the 6 bolts to spec (in pics). Then you put in the two bolts for the bearing but make sure they are nice and very loose. Then, reach up into the space and move the shaft and bearing in up/down then left/right motions (move it in all directions).
Observe where the bearing settles by noting where the bolts stop on bracket. Do this a few times and you will see that they will settle same spot. Remember, the bracket is what aligns the bearing up/down. The porsche tool does not align that. Also, after you have tightened down the rear and front of shaft, and after the bracket is in, the only way for the bearing bushing to go is sideways. Since it has 2 bolts, the sideways motion is not that much. By reaching and moving it up, you allow the bushing to settle in its natural position (least strain). After you note where the bolts rest, take a flat screwdriver and mark the bolt positions on the bracket (do this so that during torquing down you do not affix to improper position - important as this is where most screw ups will occur).
After marking the bolt positions, take your socket and gently start tightening both bolts few turns each. When they are snug, make sure they align with the marks you made and continue to torque down until they no longer move out of their positions. Then just torque down to spec (in pics) and you are done. Bearing aligned and job finished.
Thanks again.
Last edited by ciaka; 05-26-2013 at 10:46 PM.
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Sparkysi (06-25-2021)
02-13-2013, 05:18 PM
#4
...last page ...
Well, last page was to show where you raise the rear of the car, but my photo quota is exhausted, so cannot post.
I posted this same DIY in Renntech and 6speedonline, so you can see those pics there if you log in.
Bottom line, you can raise the rear of car by cross brace going under the rear differential (where rear shaft connects). The brace goes around the area. Make sure you put the car jack so that it does not put stress on a mount point which is located on the rear of that brace (mid part). Lift up to spin your tires to get better access to bolts for tightening.
Thanks.
Well, last page was to show where you raise the rear of the car, but my photo quota is exhausted, so cannot post.
I posted this same DIY in Renntech and 6speedonline, so you can see those pics there if you log in.
Bottom line, you can raise the rear of car by cross brace going under the rear differential (where rear shaft connects). The brace goes around the area. Make sure you put the car jack so that it does not put stress on a mount point which is located on the rear of that brace (mid part). Lift up to spin your tires to get better access to bolts for tightening.
Thanks.
05-03-2013, 10:40 PM
#7
This is a great write-up and makes all the steps very easy - I am still stuck getting the rear part apart. Any tips - you say to pry - but where - I am a rocket scientist - think I could figure something out
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10-17-2013, 09:54 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
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It's really pretty easy. The only special tools are these huge-*** torx bits for the rear diff. I'm not sure what the size is, but I picked up a set of three at the local auto parts store for a few bucks, no problem. The hardest part is breaking the old shaft loose. Different folks have used different methods, I used a ratchet strap and a hammer.
Good luck!
It's really pretty easy. The only special tools are these huge-*** torx bits for the rear diff. I'm not sure what the size is, but I picked up a set of three at the local auto parts store for a few bucks, no problem. The hardest part is breaking the old shaft loose. Different folks have used different methods, I used a ratchet strap and a hammer.
Good luck!
09-24-2014, 03:24 PM
#10
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The center support for both vehicles is the same. I am a mobile mechanic out of Orange County California. I had two customers approach me with the same issue and having the drive shaft replaced would have cost me $412 each. So I figured that it would be cheaper to purchase the necessary tools to do it myself. Now that I have the tools to do it myself I'm offering to help others with this similar problem for only $250.00 just ship it to me or if you are in orange county i can pick it up and fix it same day. Call me at 714 486 8527. My name is Alex.
This will work on all sub models of the car for the year range.
I had a chance to work on replacing my cardan shaft, as the one in the car gave me the famous symptoms of 'midget in console banging with a hammer'.
Important things to remember:
- replace flex disc at same time (worn out shaft bearing will cause wobble that in turn stresses the rubber disc out when you drive - I inspected mine and there were cracks when looking closely)
- take your time, no rush
- follow each step in sequence
- read each step completely before doing the work for that. There are things that will speed your work once you are aware of them.
If you do not normally work on cars, no problem. Expect about half a day worth of work.
If you work on cars already and are a DIY person, expect about 2 hrs worth of work.
Expected cost savings by DIY: about $1200 - $1400 total.
REPLACEMENT PARTS INFO:
1. Drive shaft - purchased from www.coloradodriveshaft.com - cost: $475 including $100 charge for core (you get that money back after you return
your old/bad part). Nice thing is that they provide a pre-paid and pre-addressed label for UPS, which you put on the shipping box you receive to
ship old part back, and they do hi speed balance the shafts as well.
They state that their shafts are much sturdier than originals, and will not fail, but I have no way to verify that.
2. Flex disc - purchased from ebay - cost: $90 shipped.
3. Rear drive shaft bolts - I did not replace mine with new ones, just made
sure to tighten them up nice (tightened to 10 ft-lbs more than in spec)...seemed all fine, even with their coating. Service manual calls for replacement of these bolts though, so the call is yours.
QUESTIONS/ANSWERS SECTION:
1.
Q: A question - was there any concern with centering the center bearing in the tunnel? Porsche has a special tool for this (basically looks like a big foam block the fits the tunnel and the driveshaft to make sure it's running true and straight. My plan if I need to do this is to mark the location of the mounting plate under the car, and reinstall it in the same spot (and bolt up the bearing assembly to the same spot on that plate.)
A: I address porsche tool (to align bearing) in picture 11 and 12.
If you have the tool, great. If not, you can still do it.
Without tool, you have to ensure that you bolt the bearing to bracket as the last thing in this DIY. You make sure you affix the bracket back into same location you took it out of (making marks around edges and bolts).
Tighten the 6 bolts to spec (in pics). Then you put in the two bolts for the bearing but make sure they are nice and very loose. Then, reach up into the space and move the shaft and bearing in up/down then left/right motions (move it in all directions).
Observe where the bearing settles by noting where the bolts stop on bracket. Do this a few times and you will see that they will settle same spot. Remember, the bracket is what aligns the bearing up/down. The porsche tool does not align that. Also, after you have tightened down the rear and front of shaft, and after the bracket is in, the only way for the bearing bushing to go is sideways. Since it has 2 bolts, the sideways motion is not that much. By reaching and moving it up, you allow the bushing to settle in its natural position (least strain). After you note where the bolts rest, take a flat screwdriver and mark the bolt positions on the bracket (do this so that during torquing down you do not affix to improper position - important as this is where most screw ups will occur).
After marking the bolt positions, take your socket and gently start tightening both bolts few turns each. When they are snug, make sure they align with the marks you made and continue to torque down until they no longer move out of their positions. Then just torque down to spec (in pics) and you are done. Bearing aligned and job finished.
Thanks again.
I had a chance to work on replacing my cardan shaft, as the one in the car gave me the famous symptoms of 'midget in console banging with a hammer'.
Important things to remember:
- replace flex disc at same time (worn out shaft bearing will cause wobble that in turn stresses the rubber disc out when you drive - I inspected mine and there were cracks when looking closely)
- take your time, no rush
- follow each step in sequence
- read each step completely before doing the work for that. There are things that will speed your work once you are aware of them.
If you do not normally work on cars, no problem. Expect about half a day worth of work.
If you work on cars already and are a DIY person, expect about 2 hrs worth of work.
Expected cost savings by DIY: about $1200 - $1400 total.
REPLACEMENT PARTS INFO:
1. Drive shaft - purchased from www.coloradodriveshaft.com - cost: $475 including $100 charge for core (you get that money back after you return
your old/bad part). Nice thing is that they provide a pre-paid and pre-addressed label for UPS, which you put on the shipping box you receive to
ship old part back, and they do hi speed balance the shafts as well.
They state that their shafts are much sturdier than originals, and will not fail, but I have no way to verify that.
2. Flex disc - purchased from ebay - cost: $90 shipped.
3. Rear drive shaft bolts - I did not replace mine with new ones, just made
sure to tighten them up nice (tightened to 10 ft-lbs more than in spec)...seemed all fine, even with their coating. Service manual calls for replacement of these bolts though, so the call is yours.
QUESTIONS/ANSWERS SECTION:
1.
Q: A question - was there any concern with centering the center bearing in the tunnel? Porsche has a special tool for this (basically looks like a big foam block the fits the tunnel and the driveshaft to make sure it's running true and straight. My plan if I need to do this is to mark the location of the mounting plate under the car, and reinstall it in the same spot (and bolt up the bearing assembly to the same spot on that plate.)
A: I address porsche tool (to align bearing) in picture 11 and 12.
If you have the tool, great. If not, you can still do it.
Without tool, you have to ensure that you bolt the bearing to bracket as the last thing in this DIY. You make sure you affix the bracket back into same location you took it out of (making marks around edges and bolts).
Tighten the 6 bolts to spec (in pics). Then you put in the two bolts for the bearing but make sure they are nice and very loose. Then, reach up into the space and move the shaft and bearing in up/down then left/right motions (move it in all directions).
Observe where the bearing settles by noting where the bolts stop on bracket. Do this a few times and you will see that they will settle same spot. Remember, the bracket is what aligns the bearing up/down. The porsche tool does not align that. Also, after you have tightened down the rear and front of shaft, and after the bracket is in, the only way for the bearing bushing to go is sideways. Since it has 2 bolts, the sideways motion is not that much. By reaching and moving it up, you allow the bushing to settle in its natural position (least strain). After you note where the bolts rest, take a flat screwdriver and mark the bolt positions on the bracket (do this so that during torquing down you do not affix to improper position - important as this is where most screw ups will occur).
After marking the bolt positions, take your socket and gently start tightening both bolts few turns each. When they are snug, make sure they align with the marks you made and continue to torque down until they no longer move out of their positions. Then just torque down to spec (in pics) and you are done. Bearing aligned and job finished.
Thanks again.
11-20-2015, 09:26 PM
#11
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2015 update 2006 Cayenne 6 cylinder
First thank you for the great directions. I found all the pics on 6speedonline.com.
It is easier on the 2006 6 cylinder Cayenne.
1. The 17mm bolts on the bracket were 16mm on my Cayenne. Check the size first so that you don't strip the bolts with a 17mm socket before finding out they are 16mm. Silly me. I got the first four off with a 17 mm socket then it slipped on the next two. Fortunately, no damage to any of them. Quick run to the store for the correct size ( lots of tools at the house, 16mm is an off size apparently) and all was well.
2. I undid one ( the only one ) bracket for the exhaust. I did not undo the bolts on the exhaust pipe itself, as there was plenty of room. Not sure I even needed to undo the exhaust bracket, there was lots of room.
3. I put in a totally new shaft and flex disc from EPS. Rebuilt and upgraded. $399 with a $150 core charge. includes a new flex disc.
4. Did it all myself, no real problems other than the mistake on the size of the bolts. Took about three hours including time to go to store. I'm rather handy but no Porsche expert. Would recommend a good hydraulic jack to raise and lower the car if you are doing it in the driveway and holding car up with jack stands. I hand to raise and lower and least four times to be able to rotate shaft in order to disconnect the (then) top bolts on both front and rear of shaft. The little bit of extra room the jack stands provided made it fairly easy to get underneath with enough room to manipulate torque wrench to tighten all.
Good luck!
It is easier on the 2006 6 cylinder Cayenne.
1. The 17mm bolts on the bracket were 16mm on my Cayenne. Check the size first so that you don't strip the bolts with a 17mm socket before finding out they are 16mm. Silly me. I got the first four off with a 17 mm socket then it slipped on the next two. Fortunately, no damage to any of them. Quick run to the store for the correct size ( lots of tools at the house, 16mm is an off size apparently) and all was well.
2. I undid one ( the only one ) bracket for the exhaust. I did not undo the bolts on the exhaust pipe itself, as there was plenty of room. Not sure I even needed to undo the exhaust bracket, there was lots of room.
3. I put in a totally new shaft and flex disc from EPS. Rebuilt and upgraded. $399 with a $150 core charge. includes a new flex disc.
4. Did it all myself, no real problems other than the mistake on the size of the bolts. Took about three hours including time to go to store. I'm rather handy but no Porsche expert. Would recommend a good hydraulic jack to raise and lower the car if you are doing it in the driveway and holding car up with jack stands. I hand to raise and lower and least four times to be able to rotate shaft in order to disconnect the (then) top bolts on both front and rear of shaft. The little bit of extra room the jack stands provided made it fairly easy to get underneath with enough room to manipulate torque wrench to tighten all.
Good luck!
05-14-2016, 10:39 PM
#12
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I know I'm asking this on a pretty old thread, but hopefully there is someone out there who can help me.
I'm working on this now (well, my cayenne is sitting in the garage half torn apart) and I'm stuck. I'm unable to remove the rear part of the drive shaft from the transfer case (picture 6). I have been able to remove the bolts and three metal plates and the one side of the casing (I assume it's a bearing, there was a lot of grease inside) but can't for the life of me get it to pull away from the transfer case. I've banged on it, I've tried prying at it, I've even tried lifting it using a floor jack.
I thought if I skipped ahead and freed the front of the drive shaft that I'd be able to pull it away...wrong. I've now completely disconnected the drive shaft and the flex disc at the front (just hang down resting on the exhaust now) and I still can't get the rear off. I cant understand what is preventing it from coming free - is it possible that the metal has just fused/corroded together that well? Is there something I am missing? Any good ideas?
2005 CTT
I'm working on this now (well, my cayenne is sitting in the garage half torn apart) and I'm stuck. I'm unable to remove the rear part of the drive shaft from the transfer case (picture 6). I have been able to remove the bolts and three metal plates and the one side of the casing (I assume it's a bearing, there was a lot of grease inside) but can't for the life of me get it to pull away from the transfer case. I've banged on it, I've tried prying at it, I've even tried lifting it using a floor jack.
I thought if I skipped ahead and freed the front of the drive shaft that I'd be able to pull it away...wrong. I've now completely disconnected the drive shaft and the flex disc at the front (just hang down resting on the exhaust now) and I still can't get the rear off. I cant understand what is preventing it from coming free - is it possible that the metal has just fused/corroded together that well? Is there something I am missing? Any good ideas?
2005 CTT
07-15-2016, 03:23 PM
#13
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Great. Thanks. That might be also helpful if you check this video on http://epsdriveshaftbearingsupport.com/. It shows the full procedures for changing drive shaft center support in vehicle.
07-25-2016, 11:24 AM
#14
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I have a 2009 Porsche Cayenne S that I replaced the Center Drive Shaft Bearing. The Kit contained a Rubber Boot to go over the Center CV Joint. Whereas, the original CV Joint had a Metal Cover with a smaller diameter Rubber Boot. This all Rubber Boot appeared to be a little odd. Nonetheless, did the replacement. I could not determine where the very small metal square rod went in the repair. Did my Test Drive and it appears the Center CV Joint came apart. This was not totally surprising. It appeared the Metal Cover on the CV Joint kept the CV Joint (Ball Bearings) together and in place. Does this CV Joint require the Metal Cover with the small Rubber Boot? Also, if the actual CV Joint was damaged, are the CV Joint Parts available? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
05-25-2017, 01:18 PM
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Thanks for sharing! Sounds great.
I also replaced my drive shaft on my VW Touareg. I have 25k on my EPS upgraded rebuilt drive shaft replacement and no wiggle at all. It took me 90 mins to install on my Touareg and now I could do it in 30-45. Most of the time is spent removing the old rubber from the bearing.
I think there're also similar options for Porsche on EPS.
I also replaced my drive shaft on my VW Touareg. I have 25k on my EPS upgraded rebuilt drive shaft replacement and no wiggle at all. It took me 90 mins to install on my Touareg and now I could do it in 30-45. Most of the time is spent removing the old rubber from the bearing.
I think there're also similar options for Porsche on EPS.
