Crozzer

Any experts have a say on where to insert a smoke machine nozzle to test fit a) boost leak and b) pressure control line leak?

maybe:
- use gloves on air pipes from air boxes. Insert nipple through one?
- use pressure control line from back of air distributor?
- use a plumbing rubber cap or similar on the charge pipes before entering plenum?
- downstream of cycle valve in front of intake, to test the wastegate control circuit?


what would you suggest?

Crozzer

Ok, the autool comes with a plug and a bung that fit the intake pipes at the top of the air boxes.



Autool SDT202 from Amazon. Just use mineral oil.

Cone adapter on passenger side

Rubber plug on driver side



…which results in this delightful find…

Looking in from the driver side wheel well, with the fender liner removed, and the air is removed, at the front of the turbo. The control line is disconnected from the wastegate actuator (?). In a pretty tight spot. I blame the GD Indy who botched the PDCC pump job; they likely fat fingered this thing off of there.




There’s your problem right there. Not connected, just like the diagram shows…


How in the hell do I put that back on? Please don’t say remove the pdcc pump…

Can I loosen the bracket the wastegate actuator is on and wiggle it around without effing up the wastegates? Will that give me enough room?

Is it supposed to have a clamp? No chance without removing stuff, if so…

Have you been in there before?

There are other leaks too. Because, of course. But this seems the most biggest deal.

Crozzer

… reading up on the pdcc pump procedure, I may be able to loosen it without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.

I’ve also ordered some short t45 bits to try to move that wastegate actuator bracket out of the way first.

I hope I don’t jam up the wastegates by messing around in there…

anybody done this before, or know how fragile those wastegates are to fiddling with the actuator rod?

theprf

The wastegates are sturdy and you won't break one by touching it. I would try to avoid removing the WG from the turbo as the bolts are probably seized. If you break one then you are in for a treat. Also the WG actuator rod could come disconnected.
There is no clamp for the WG line it's just a tight fit. Perhaps removing the PS pulley and reaching in from the front may work, with a long pair of pliers.

Crozzer

Thank you!

Was thinking the bracket that holds the WG actuator, not the WG themselves. But now I’m concerned about the rod coming disconnected inside the WG. Which would suck.

I think this might be the trick. Like a foot long set of needle nose with a 90 bend at the end. Pinch the heat shield and hose, pull onto WG nipple… pray for me. ;-)

Else I’ll try loosening the pump w/o disconnecting, and as a last resort can yank the pump. (Which I just finished paying to have done…. Grrr…)

Andrew_955

I have ~10" long needle nose pliers in both 45 and 90° offset, they were a godsend when doing all my coolant hoses. Almost as handy as the cable/ratcheting hose clamp tool.

Missing wastegate line ey, that's a nice Easter egg from the mechanic

Crozzer

Solved. What a PITA. At least it was able to be resolved without removing anything.

you can snake a wire coat hanger under the wastegate actuator and if you can manage to get the hose to line up with the nipple, then on your third try you might just get it.

Fully remove that short piece of hose. Attach your coat hanger with a gentle loop or crimp, and enough electrical tape to wrap about 1.5 inches of hose. You need this to be able to pull hard enough. Try to line up the wire so it pulls on the back and down side of the nipple, and leaves the hose aligned with its connector on the other end.

I thought I’d be able to remove the wire and tape when I was done, but I couldn’t, and my less-secure connections failed to pull hard enough to get it on the nipple before pulling loose.

I just left it in and crimped it kind of like a safety wire. Maybe I’ll tug on it some day and see if the electrical tape has given up.



It’s tight. The only tools you get are a wire taped to the end of your hose (to pull on) and a screwdriver to prod the hose around until it hugs the nipple.

gotta remove the tire, fender liner, and driver side air box too.

I hope nobody ever needs to read this. But if you do, I hope you find this and find hope.

Oh yeah, so this is what it drives like when it is not boost creeping and doing weird stuff.