brooklynkid

Make sure when replace upper control arms you torque down them down appropriately . Otherwise you'll get sloppy movement and clunking when you turn the steering wheel

GrandeOak

Are you referring to torquing with it under vehicle weight?

Do you have decent access to torque with everything installed but with the wheel off?

You stated you put it in the lowest setting (assume you mean loading level). Would it be better to torque it in the setting you drive most often or maybe just in the middle setting?

brooklynkid

I torqued everything in low drive setting height. But for upper control arms specifically before you re install the air shock and upper control arm assembly make sure it's Tight! Once you bolt to frame under the hood you won't be able to access again!

Dan87951

Nice work on the repair! Looks like a pain.

GrandeOak

I replaced my UCA and shock mounts last weekend. The tips above were very helpful. Here are some pictures and thoughts for anyone else thinking of doing this job.

I removed the driver (left) side wiper but not the entire cowl to access the hidden bolts.

Driver side hidden bolt


Passenger side hidden bolt


Passenger side tricky bolt


Press the push pin to remove the ride height sensor


If you replace your shock mounts you will need a special tool or an air wrench to remove the shock rod nut and it's probably a good idea to replace the o-ring under the bracket as the cavity underneath is pressurized. Picture below shows the o-ring and the nut.


My passenger shock mount was completely shot (118,000 miles)


For re-installation I left one tricky bolt in place for each shock but put a socket on it to give it some weight. After reconnecting the shock I raised it with a jack until it just bumped the bolt and then turned the bolt until it grabbed the shock then raised the shock a bit more, tightened the bolt more then installed the other two bolts