DBC Tuning: 2006 Porsche Cayenne S Visits for Coolant Pipes
05-10-2012, 01:17 AM
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
DBC Tuning: 2006 Porsche Cayenne S Visits for Coolant Pipes
A little background information on our shop before I get into details:
DBC Tuning, located in San Antonio, TX specializes in Audi, BMW, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche and VW factory scheduled service, repair as well as aftermarket performance and cosmetic enhancements. We employ ASE certified, BMW and Porsche trained technicians, use Genuine and highest quality German parts as well as latest tools at our shop.
Being new to Rennlist, I respectfully wanted introduce myself and the company. You guys are free to ask any technical questions, no purchase necessary. I will do my best to get back to you in timely fashion.
-Berk
This 2006 Cayenne S with less than 50k on the clock had distinct coolant smell coming from the engine bay and from underneath the car at idle when the motor was running. After diagnose and our previous experience we were authorized to do the work on the car. At the same time, we replaced the water pump (despite no leaks detected, precautionary), thermostat (precaution) as well as the main belt which showed a little wear surprisingly. Now the car has updated metal pipes, new water pump and thermostat with fresh coolant.
I will leave you guys with bunch of pictures. If any questions, pm me, call me, email me at any time.
DBC Tuning, located in San Antonio, TX specializes in Audi, BMW, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche and VW factory scheduled service, repair as well as aftermarket performance and cosmetic enhancements. We employ ASE certified, BMW and Porsche trained technicians, use Genuine and highest quality German parts as well as latest tools at our shop.
Being new to Rennlist, I respectfully wanted introduce myself and the company. You guys are free to ask any technical questions, no purchase necessary. I will do my best to get back to you in timely fashion.
-Berk
This 2006 Cayenne S with less than 50k on the clock had distinct coolant smell coming from the engine bay and from underneath the car at idle when the motor was running. After diagnose and our previous experience we were authorized to do the work on the car. At the same time, we replaced the water pump (despite no leaks detected, precautionary), thermostat (precaution) as well as the main belt which showed a little wear surprisingly. Now the car has updated metal pipes, new water pump and thermostat with fresh coolant.
I will leave you guys with bunch of pictures. If any questions, pm me, call me, email me at any time.
Last edited by GermanCarSpecialists; 05-10-2012 at 12:18 PM.
05-10-2012, 12:18 PM
#3
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Ninja-edited!
05-10-2012, 01:03 PM
#4
Race Director
Thanks for the posting. I did this myself a little over a month ago, if I ever have to do a 2nd one I know I could do it much faster and with less hassle (getting the old large pipe ends out was a bitch but I figured out a much better way to do it).
Thanks for the offer of assistance to the forum.
Thanks for the offer of assistance to the forum.
05-10-2012, 05:33 PM
#5
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the posting. I did this myself a little over a month ago, if I ever have to do a 2nd one I know I could do it much faster and with less hassle (getting the old large pipe ends out was a bitch but I figured out a much better way to do it).
Thanks for the offer of assistance to the forum.
Thanks for the offer of assistance to the forum.
05-16-2012, 10:15 PM
#6
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello guys. Sort of new at posting. I'm about to do this on my 04 S. Any tips on removing the large pipe, what works better to brake it? Would an old flat head and a rubber mallet work? :-) Never been in that area of the engine so I have no idea how the thing is put together and I've never seen a close up. Thanks!
05-17-2012, 10:23 AM
#7
Race Director
Hello guys. Sort of new at posting. I'm about to do this on my 04 S. Any tips on removing the large pipe, what works better to brake it? Would an old flat head and a rubber mallet work? :-) Never been in that area of the engine so I have no idea how the thing is put together and I've never seen a close up. Thanks!
Edit:
Well most of the info I added was to the Renntech.org DIY and not in the coolant pipes thread here since most of this stuff has been covered before. I will add a little bit of what I posted there (I'm not stealing someone else's work) in here. I first tried the chisel method to remove the inner sleeve of the lg. pipe ends but all it did was bugger up the sleeve and push it further into the receptacle. I found rotating the ends of the pipe back and forth while applying pulling pressure to the pipe allowed the ends to walk right out.
I have a Macgyver solution for removing coolant ect from the small crevices of the engine, only wish I had thought of this before I started the tube replacement. Of course one of these days I'm going to buy a fluid extractor......
(Bottom 2 photos)
Using a wet/dry vac insert a 2' piece of clear vinyl tubing (apx 3/8" dia) into the crevice tool of the vacuum cleaner (my tubing stayed held in the crevice tool just fine), DO NOT TAPE or otherwise close the rest of the opening, there's plenty of suction going through the tube. Use the other end of the tube to vacuum up the coolant. It can also be used to extract coolant from the other openings in the engine. It worked superbly for me, only wish I had figured it out earlier.
For actual large pipe end removal: (top 2 photos)
I used a Dremel MultiMax tool to cut the coolant pipe, it worked fantastic. I have a suggestion for getting the large pipe ends out that doesn't involve trying to cut the inner sleeve. I had a hell of a time getting that sleeve out of the rear crosssection.
Leave apx 1.5" of plastic pipe on the ends when you cut them (both ends). Then drill 1/4" hole through both sides of the remaining pipe, as far back as you can go w/out damaging the insert area. Have about a 9" section of light link chain (rope or webbed strap will work too). Next take a long handle philips screwdriver and slide it in the hole then through the chain end and then through the other side of the pipe. You should be able to rotate the pipe end about 45 deg. with the screwdriver. Insert a pry bar through the other end of the chain and brace the pry bar against one of the ribs on the head/block. Now pull on the pry bar at the same time as you use the screwdriver to rotate the pipe end, the pipe end should "walk" out of the receptacle/slot.
Do much the same for the pipe piece in the thermostat housing. I thought of this after I had removed both pieces but I did something very similar on the t-stat housing end and it worked great.
(Bottom 2 photos)
Using a wet/dry vac insert a 2' piece of clear vinyl tubing (apx 3/8" dia) into the crevice tool of the vacuum cleaner (my tubing stayed held in the crevice tool just fine), DO NOT TAPE or otherwise close the rest of the opening, there's plenty of suction going through the tube. Use the other end of the tube to vacuum up the coolant. It can also be used to extract coolant from the other openings in the engine. It worked superbly for me, only wish I had figured it out earlier.
For actual large pipe end removal: (top 2 photos)
I used a Dremel MultiMax tool to cut the coolant pipe, it worked fantastic. I have a suggestion for getting the large pipe ends out that doesn't involve trying to cut the inner sleeve. I had a hell of a time getting that sleeve out of the rear crosssection.
Leave apx 1.5" of plastic pipe on the ends when you cut them (both ends). Then drill 1/4" hole through both sides of the remaining pipe, as far back as you can go w/out damaging the insert area. Have about a 9" section of light link chain (rope or webbed strap will work too). Next take a long handle philips screwdriver and slide it in the hole then through the chain end and then through the other side of the pipe. You should be able to rotate the pipe end about 45 deg. with the screwdriver. Insert a pry bar through the other end of the chain and brace the pry bar against one of the ribs on the head/block. Now pull on the pry bar at the same time as you use the screwdriver to rotate the pipe end, the pipe end should "walk" out of the receptacle/slot.
Do much the same for the pipe piece in the thermostat housing. I thought of this after I had removed both pieces but I did something very similar on the t-stat housing end and it worked great.
Last edited by Slow Guy; 12-24-2014 at 01:40 PM.
Trending Topics
05-17-2012, 10:41 AM
#8
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Berk, welcome to Rennlist. Compared to most indies, your shop look very clean and well lit. Your work ethic also looks sharp; based on the photos. Keep it up and thanks for posting!
05-17-2012, 01:27 PM
#9
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Meanwhile looking into a couple of Cayennes this afternoon, I might pick up one. I will report back.
05-17-2012, 01:28 PM
#10
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Correct, we follow a similar path. Otherwise it is VERY messy and requires a lot more work to clean the bay.
11-27-2012, 12:58 AM
#12
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
In order to make a healthy decision on pricing please give us a call with year, model, mileage. I would be more than happy to give a RL special pricing.
Thanks
-Berk
Thanks
-Berk
07-31-2014, 02:03 AM
#14
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Guys August I am running a special in this service. Including same day turn around. Email me at service@dbctuning.com for all questions
