Slow Guy

Thanks Scot, I wonder if it's like the 7 lbs required on 993 valve cover and timing cover bolts? I'll look at the docs.

Slow Guy

Got a big box of parts today from Hennessey. There's some pretty big markup on a few of them if I had to pay MSRP. Pencil coils have gone up from the last time I looked (but now they're .09) MSRP is now $54.02! (I did not have to pay that!).

But then, if I was having to buy parts from the local BMW stealer getting them for MSRP would be a welcome change.

Slow Guy

FYI, Coolant info

Slow Guy

Got a pretty poor start but things picked up later in the afternoon.

1) lost power right before I got up and it was out 'til almost 10:00. Storms went through yesterday but we escaped the worst of it and it was clear and pleasant this AM, no idea why power went out.
2) Don't have a petcock to drain the radiator, getting that lower radiator hose connection off was a bitch! It did not want to come off. Funky hoses Porsche uses, plastic elbow/connections are fused onto the radiator hose, you remove the plastic to plastic connection at the radiator. Took me about an hour to get that hose end off!
3) no lie about the "challenge" getting the fuel injector elect. connections off, those release bars are difficult to get to.
4) the first intake manifold bolt (pass side - rear) and my torx socket fell down into never-never land, had to go to the parts store for a new one but bought a flex magnet retriever too and was able to recover it. (my magnet tool was straight shaft and couldn't bend where I needed it, been meaning to get a flex magnet tool anyway)

Intake is off and working on removing plastic pipes, still a ways to go.

Dennis C

Sounds like you're making good progress Bill.

JAGMAN1

I too second the torque comment. Water pump is very light.

I've done coolant pipes, belt, water pump, spark plugs. The belt was a challenge to get some of the emissions hoses to separate from the 'quick' disconnects. Be careful with the older plastic vacuum lines they're brittle.

Only other part I changed was the thermostat. All were done as preventative maintenance. The water pump was making noises though from failing bearings.

Slow Guy

Not nearly the progress I thought or hoped I would Dennis. It seems I move along nicely and then the next step kicks my ***.

Today the problem area was getting the lower hose ends out, those sleeves Porsche put's inside the plastic tubes are about twice the gauge I think they need. Those things just don't want to bend in (or tear) so I could get a good grab on them to lever them out.

Did work up a nice McGyver job to get the front portion out though. First off I used a Dremel Oscillating Cutter (I bought it to remove the grout in the shower), used it's wood cutting "bit" to cut the plastic tube, it works great!

For the front (of engine) I cut the large coolant pipe leaving about 2" of pipe accessible. I could turn the pipe a little but it was tough. I wound up drilling 3 1/4" holes through both sides of the pipe, I then used a long Phillips screwdriver through one set of holes at a time, this allowed me to rotate the pipe almost 360 deg. However even with it turning it barely came out at all. I wound up using a small pry bar against the screwdriver while I rotated the pipe (with the screwdriver), the pipe came out very easily. (I did NOT use the T-stat housing for leverage on the pry bar, there's plenty of leverage points on the head base).

I wish I had thought of that procedure before I destroyed the plastic portion of the rear section, it was a pure bitch to get out.

A few pics:

kalyan

Bill,

Just curious... you think those pipes would have come off if they were to be heated with a heat gun? Also, IIRC, the article in Excellence magazine said that they use some kind of glue. I could be wrong... as my memory is as good as a fish's memory.

Slow Guy

I doubt it, those pipes are pretty thick, they won't melt with a heat gun. Remember, those pipes have very hot water running through them and run between the cylinders, they can take heat. Plus that bloomin' sleeve is inside the pipe to hold it in the fitting.

Yeah, whoever put my lower radiator hose on and that lower (big) pipe must have gotten carried away with the glue...

Slow Guy

OK, to answer my own question I don't believe it's all that advantagous to replace the water pump when you replace the coolant tubes. Although I replaced mine when the intake manifold (intake air distributor) was still off from the coolant pipe replacement I don't think it makes the job that much easier.

2nd, another DIY for the serpentine belt says the idler arm (release arm) is 27mm, on my '06 "S" it's 30 mm. Also, when you're replacing the belt let the new belt hang lengthwise to straighten itself out as much as possible. When you first pull it out of the sleeve it's fairly curvy and usually not in the places you need it to curve, makes it a challenge to get all the slack out to put it back on the idler.

As far as my (old) serpentine belt's condition, it was still in very good shape, no cracks. So based on my (1) data point I feel I could have waited until I hit 90k mi. (I'm at 65k now) to replace the belt and the water pump.

I also replaced the spark plugs and coil packs (pencil coils). I thought all my coils were -05 but (3) were -03's and (5) were '05's. When I started her up after doing all this work it fired right up and idled very smoothly. It'll be a few days before I decide if I have any leaks (none found so far, knock on wood).