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Replacing Rear Hatch Shocks

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Old 11-14-2011, 01:09 AM
  #31  
Michael S.
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Thanks! I never tried to take any of the black plastic trim off at the rear, as I could get to everything I needed to with it on... Still, if it improved your access, then that is a good idea!

Also... I tried to buy new "deformable elements" when I ordered my parts, but John at Sunset couldn't find them in the catalog... If they are available and are reasonably priced, I would definitely recommend buying new!

I also tried getting to everything without removing the grab handles and c-pillar trim at first, but I didn't like the way I had to pull down on the headliner... Obviously, you were successful... So, that is up to the individual I guess.

Thanks all for the feedback... This was my first attempt at documenting a "DIY"... I think it turned out ok.
Old 11-14-2011, 01:48 AM
  #32  
Orantes
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Beats getting hit in the head with the tailgate for sure!!!
Old 12-29-2011, 03:33 PM
  #33  
SQLGuy
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I originally called my local dealer to get the Wurth Bond + Seal adhesive, which is quite different from the black tar-like stuff that's on there originally. The dealer told me that they always replace the foam plugs, and that the plugs come pre-loaded with sealant. Not sure whether this is true, as I didn't buy the plugs, but instead got a tube of the sealant from my 928 parts guys (part number is 000 043 204 38). However, the tube of the Wurth stuff runs about $25, and the foam plugs list for about $10 each. If they really do come with new sealant on them, it's a much better deal (time and money wise) to just buy the plugs.
Old 12-30-2011, 05:01 AM
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Yes, the deformable elements do come with the sealant already applied! Makes life easier!
Old 01-06-2012, 08:12 PM
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mikehos
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Awesome write up. Just replaced all four today. It was a piece of cake with the step by step instructions. I did not take the pillars or grab handles off and it worked just fine without. The deformable elements were reusable and resealed just fine i talked to a service tech about them and they reinstall them as is
The whole job took me and a buddy 2 hours. You definitely need two people for the shock removal and installation. Also handy to have a buddy holding a light.
Old 02-06-2012, 10:07 PM
  #36  
mikebast
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thanks for posting,pics were helpful. just finished mine!
Old 03-14-2012, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SQLGuy
I originally called my local dealer to get the Wurth Bond + Seal adhesive, which is quite different from the black tar-like stuff that's on there originally. The dealer told me that they always replace the foam plugs, and that the plugs come pre-loaded with sealant. Not sure whether this is true, as I didn't buy the plugs, but instead got a tube of the sealant from my 928 parts guys (part number is 000 043 204 38). However, the tube of the Wurth stuff runs about $25, and the foam plugs list for about $10 each. If they really do come with new sealant on them, it's a much better deal (time and money wise) to just buy the plugs.
Does anyone have a part # for the foam plugs?? Also I read somewhere there is a left and a right part # for the hatch shocks but not the window shocks. I am getting ready to order the parts and get this done, tired of having hatch come down on my head. Great write-up with pics sure will help

Thanks
Tooch
Old 03-14-2012, 02:29 PM
  #38  
Porsche 25th
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Wow, great photo documentation. Looks like a MAJOR PITA! My struts are still OK........fingers crossed.
Old 03-14-2012, 02:51 PM
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ArneeA
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Mine are slowly sagging but I'm lazy... I suppose I should expect 3-4hrs from an indy for this plus parts?
Old 03-15-2012, 05:20 AM
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911PERVY
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Trim pads 95551258300 & 95551258400

Hatch shock 95551255006 x 2 (handed on Gen 2 cars)

Glass shock 95551252800 x 2
Old 03-15-2012, 09:55 PM
  #41  
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Thanks 911
Old 03-16-2012, 02:54 PM
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Great DIY write up Michael... I had this done at my dealer in November - $490 parts & labor.
Old 03-16-2012, 03:03 PM
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ArneeA
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Originally Posted by cab&coupe
Great DIY write up Michael... I had this done at my dealer in November - $490 parts & labor.

Thanks for that info, Craig.

It's not bad, especially if it takes 3-4hrs of DIY.
Old 03-16-2012, 06:07 PM
  #44  
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my indy did it today, took ±3 hours. great writeup btw!
Old 03-19-2012, 12:29 AM
  #45  
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Just wanted to say thanks to all the contributors to this thread, esp. Michael S. for the photo documentation and step-by-step write-up. I did my hatch struts yesterday morning. It went very smoothly thanks to the instructions. Excellent job Mike.

I did remove the C-pillar covers for the extra working room, but might have been able to do without. If you do, the only comment I have is that the torx that remove the grab handles are T-25, not T-20. I did remove the first screw with the 20, and it did not strip, But I realized the 25 was a better fit.

Also, I had a little trouble with panel alignment on one of the D panels during reassembly and misplaced the tiny little philips screw. They found one for me at the dealer and gave it to me. If it hadn't been for that false step, it would have taken me about 2.5 hours total. Most of the time is taken during disassembly, trying to make sure not to break any connectors.

BTW, I used an adjustable shower curtain rod to hold the gate open while I worked. Rather than place in the center, I found it easier to place on one side and work on the other. And I removed and replaced one side's strut, then moved to the other. I did not replace the window struts. They were working fine, and I rarely open the rear glass anyway.

Almost forgot an important detail: Partsgeek.com had the struts on sale cheap. $52.85 each.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...tch_strut.html


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