Replacing Rear Hatch Shocks
#31
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Thanks! I never tried to take any of the black plastic trim off at the rear, as I could get to everything I needed to with it on... Still, if it improved your access, then that is a good idea!
Also... I tried to buy new "deformable elements" when I ordered my parts, but John at Sunset couldn't find them in the catalog... If they are available and are reasonably priced, I would definitely recommend buying new!
I also tried getting to everything without removing the grab handles and c-pillar trim at first, but I didn't like the way I had to pull down on the headliner... Obviously, you were successful... So, that is up to the individual I guess.
Thanks all for the feedback... This was my first attempt at documenting a "DIY"... I think it turned out ok.
Also... I tried to buy new "deformable elements" when I ordered my parts, but John at Sunset couldn't find them in the catalog... If they are available and are reasonably priced, I would definitely recommend buying new!
I also tried getting to everything without removing the grab handles and c-pillar trim at first, but I didn't like the way I had to pull down on the headliner... Obviously, you were successful... So, that is up to the individual I guess.
Thanks all for the feedback... This was my first attempt at documenting a "DIY"... I think it turned out ok.
#33
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
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I originally called my local dealer to get the Wurth Bond + Seal adhesive, which is quite different from the black tar-like stuff that's on there originally. The dealer told me that they always replace the foam plugs, and that the plugs come pre-loaded with sealant. Not sure whether this is true, as I didn't buy the plugs, but instead got a tube of the sealant from my 928 parts guys (part number is 000 043 204 38). However, the tube of the Wurth stuff runs about $25, and the foam plugs list for about $10 each. If they really do come with new sealant on them, it's a much better deal (time and money wise) to just buy the plugs.
#35
Awesome write up. Just replaced all four today. It was a piece of cake with the step by step instructions. I did not take the pillars or grab handles off and it worked just fine without. The deformable elements were reusable and resealed just fine i talked to a service tech about them and they reinstall them as is
The whole job took me and a buddy 2 hours. You definitely need two people for the shock removal and installation. Also handy to have a buddy holding a light.
The whole job took me and a buddy 2 hours. You definitely need two people for the shock removal and installation. Also handy to have a buddy holding a light.
#37
I originally called my local dealer to get the Wurth Bond + Seal adhesive, which is quite different from the black tar-like stuff that's on there originally. The dealer told me that they always replace the foam plugs, and that the plugs come pre-loaded with sealant. Not sure whether this is true, as I didn't buy the plugs, but instead got a tube of the sealant from my 928 parts guys (part number is 000 043 204 38). However, the tube of the Wurth stuff runs about $25, and the foam plugs list for about $10 each. If they really do come with new sealant on them, it's a much better deal (time and money wise) to just buy the plugs.
Thanks
Tooch
#43
#45
Just wanted to say thanks to all the contributors to this thread, esp. Michael S. for the photo documentation and step-by-step write-up. I did my hatch struts yesterday morning. It went very smoothly thanks to the instructions. Excellent job Mike.
I did remove the C-pillar covers for the extra working room, but might have been able to do without. If you do, the only comment I have is that the torx that remove the grab handles are T-25, not T-20. I did remove the first screw with the 20, and it did not strip, But I realized the 25 was a better fit.
Also, I had a little trouble with panel alignment on one of the D panels during reassembly and misplaced the tiny little philips screw. They found one for me at the dealer and gave it to me. If it hadn't been for that false step, it would have taken me about 2.5 hours total. Most of the time is taken during disassembly, trying to make sure not to break any connectors.
BTW, I used an adjustable shower curtain rod to hold the gate open while I worked. Rather than place in the center, I found it easier to place on one side and work on the other. And I removed and replaced one side's strut, then moved to the other. I did not replace the window struts. They were working fine, and I rarely open the rear glass anyway.
Almost forgot an important detail: Partsgeek.com had the struts on sale cheap. $52.85 each.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...tch_strut.html
I did remove the C-pillar covers for the extra working room, but might have been able to do without. If you do, the only comment I have is that the torx that remove the grab handles are T-25, not T-20. I did remove the first screw with the 20, and it did not strip, But I realized the 25 was a better fit.
Also, I had a little trouble with panel alignment on one of the D panels during reassembly and misplaced the tiny little philips screw. They found one for me at the dealer and gave it to me. If it hadn't been for that false step, it would have taken me about 2.5 hours total. Most of the time is taken during disassembly, trying to make sure not to break any connectors.
BTW, I used an adjustable shower curtain rod to hold the gate open while I worked. Rather than place in the center, I found it easier to place on one side and work on the other. And I removed and replaced one side's strut, then moved to the other. I did not replace the window struts. They were working fine, and I rarely open the rear glass anyway.
Almost forgot an important detail: Partsgeek.com had the struts on sale cheap. $52.85 each.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...tch_strut.html