Bill P.

In the past I've always used the plastic clip and attached the V1 under the passenger sun visor w/the wire going down the post. I may use the suction cup holder this time on the CS—those of you who go that route, do you ever experience it falling off of the windshield? How can I prevent that?

tobyport

The GRides Valentine One 997 bracket can be modified to work. I carefully bent it in order to pull it up closer to the mirror. I plan to wire with the Invisicord, but haven't gotten that far yet. What do you think?

Mike in CA

I have V1's in 3 vehicles using the suction cup mounting near the rear view mirror. Only time I've ever had issues is after removing one and then not properly cleaning the glass and suction cups to get a good seal afterwards. Other than that, no problems. I've even accidently left the one in my Carrera during an autoX a couple of times without incident. Since the power cord connector snaps securely into the unit, I suppose you could tether a wire discreetly between the cord and the mirror mounting as a fail safe if you're concerned about it.

mikew968

I have a new V1 with my '11 with lca and it constantly went off. I disabled "pop" and it solved the falsing. The instructions are on the web site. They told me that when you shut the lca off you are merely turning off the monitor not the signal.

mikew968

I just finished the direct wire install for my V1. The toughest part of the job is getting the wire tucked underneath the trim. The open unfused slots that are switched are at the bottom of the panel.

scottlma

I'm trying to hardwire my V1 into my new 2011 CS. I considdered the typical run the wire down the A pillar option, but ran into 2 issues - its so tight against the windshield (not that im complaining about a quality build!) i cant figure out how to get the wire in there without screwing up the trim piece, and, im affraind of screwing up - or worse, setting off - the A pillar airbag. Now I'm looking at the invisicord route into the overhead light/etc. How do i get that filler piece off without breaking it ? also, is there a good place to tie into (to save me the meter routine)?

Thanks,
Scott

Mike in CA

Scott, I was able to run a cord up the under the headliner, down the A-pillar, and tie into the fuse box at the end of the dash. You can barely see the cord in a flash pic; in normal interior light it's all but invisible. Your cord should be flat, not round, and with a bit of patience and a plastic trim tool it's not that hard to wedge the wire into place.

bfrank

Can anyone tell me a specific fuse slot that will work for the V1 in my '12 Cayenne? I've wired cars in the past but there were always specific slots recommended on the internet to make it idiot proof for guys like me.

Mike in CA

On the assumption that the 2011 is the same as the 2012 you can see below the location that I used in the passenger side fuse box. I used a multi-tester to find a position that provided voltage only when the key was turned on. In this case I found a completely vacant slot.

bfrank

Thanks Mike. I'll give it a try later this afternoon.

amfp

As info, I found the 5 amp fuse can short out pretty easily, especially as I use one under the passenger side lighter for the V1, and the second lighter on the dash to charge my iPhone. Know the V1 operates on 2 amps, and suspect phone adapter is about the same. But inserting and reinserting that later adapter can cause the fuse to blow. Dealer also said it is not uncommon to blow that 5 amp fuse. So suggest carrying a spare 5 amp fuse. Also owner should finalize knowing the fuse compartment is on passenger side to the right of the dashboard. You need to remove the cover to access them.

If you use the lighters in rear seat area, they are on a separate circuit. So can use that as a power supply too.

bfrank

I haven't done one of these for a while. I have the red wire from the V1 hardwire kit. I wrapped it around a 10A fuse and wedged it into slot 18. The V1 turned on but the fuse was not stable and with any small movement would turn on and off. I think this is how I did it in my Audi but obviously this is not a stable solution in this case. I bought one of those piggyback fuse things but have no idea how that's supposed to fit in there. What is the best way to connect that red wire to slot 18?

Slow Guy

I have a '06 but the principle is the same..... personally wouldn't recommend piggy-backing off an existing fuse unless there are no available empty fuse slots. Just buy a 12v Tester probe from any Radio Shack, Lowes/HD or auto parts store, clip the black lead to a good ground and test the empty/available fuse slots for 12v with the ignition on. Remember, there will only be voltage from one side of the slot when there's no fuse in the slot so test both sides for 12v. Then crimp a terminal lug to the V1 hot wire and plug it into the fuse slots 12v side. Very easy and secure, I've had mine in for about a year and done it this way with many cars.

The 12v tester is cheap (< $10) and very handy to have around.

just make sure you get the tester that's testing for 12v and not a continuity tester. The Cont. testers have a battery installed and have a different purpose.

One of many styles of 12v testers:

bfrank

Thank you Bill. I'll give it a try. Stupid question: What is purpose of 12V tester? It tells me there is power to that fuse slot? Does it need to give me a certain reading or just power vs. no power?

Mike in CA

Take a look at the pics below to see how the fuse tap attaches to the fuse. (You will obviously need to use one of your spare fuses or purchase a new one since there is currently no fuse in slot 18.) The female connector on the red wire from the V1 will plug onto the exposed tab. Because this type of fuse tap fits over one of the connectors on the fuse, it can require a little more finesse to plug the fuse back in. It usually works easily as long as you crimp the tap snugly over the "leg" on the fuse. Another solution is to buy a one-piece fuse tap. Just google fuse tap and you'll see lots of different types.