'04 CS vs. '06 CTTS
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
'04 CS vs. '06 CTTS
I've had my Cayenne for a little over two years now. I love it and am considering an upgrade; working on a deal to move from my '04 Cayenne S to an '06 Turbo S. The one I'm lookiing at has about a minute of warranty left; manufactured 11/06, with 40k miles.
I'm wondering what problem(s) to look for, if any, on the '06 CTTS. Obviously, the ignition coils and the coolant pipes were problematic on the alphas and betas. I assume those issues have been dealt with by the time the 2006's were manufactured. Correct assumption??
With such a short window of warranty remaining, I wanna jump on any issues that will save me money in the future. I've replaced the liftgate struts, the horns and the battery on my '04. Have any design changes been made on the newer models to prevent these probs?
Any particular problems (especially expensive ones) that we know of that I should address during my negotiating?
Thanks boys!
I'm wondering what problem(s) to look for, if any, on the '06 CTTS. Obviously, the ignition coils and the coolant pipes were problematic on the alphas and betas. I assume those issues have been dealt with by the time the 2006's were manufactured. Correct assumption??
With such a short window of warranty remaining, I wanna jump on any issues that will save me money in the future. I've replaced the liftgate struts, the horns and the battery on my '04. Have any design changes been made on the newer models to prevent these probs?
Any particular problems (especially expensive ones) that we know of that I should address during my negotiating?
Thanks boys!
#3
I've got one. My pipes were plastic. I changed them preemptively at 27400 miles and added the coils and plugs while I was in there. The condition of my pipes was AS NEW. Just pristine.
I have had no problems of any type with mine... and I ride her hard and put her away wet often. But I change the oil and filters (air and oil) frequently, keep the fluids checked and fresh, etc. I live in high, dry, dusty country so I can the air filters every 8,000 miles/oil every 4,000. I would check how well the one you're looking at has been maintained.
If you're looking at one with 40k, then I would suggest considering when the plugs were last changed, if ever; are the coils original; has the brake fluid been changed on schedule at every two years MIN.; check the pads and rotors, of course, and the serpentine belt. It the answers to the above questions were all original, then I would DEFINITELY negotiate the cost of DIY or dealer service into my offer.
Also, make sure all the tools are in their preformed holes under the rear floor and under the rear seats. There should be an air hose attachment under the rear seats. Not there? I'd nick the price for that.
If I had access to the owner I would ask where he/she bought gas, too. May sound silly but I was buying gas at Costco because I was under the impression that "gas is gas" if the ground tanks are clean but my valve tops were FOULED like a dirty BBQ grill upon visual inspection when I pulled the intake mani for the coolant pipes change. Apparently, "gas is gas" but additives are NOT all the same. Since then I have switched to Chevron w/ Techron additive. Stuff is supposed to work well.
That gas change combined with the new plugs and coils has definitely brought a big PUNCH back to her performance.
But be warned... the power is intoxicating. If she's well taken care of, turn PSM OFF and punch it... just make sure you've got a runway lined up for landing.
Good luck. Great machine.
I have had no problems of any type with mine... and I ride her hard and put her away wet often. But I change the oil and filters (air and oil) frequently, keep the fluids checked and fresh, etc. I live in high, dry, dusty country so I can the air filters every 8,000 miles/oil every 4,000. I would check how well the one you're looking at has been maintained.
If you're looking at one with 40k, then I would suggest considering when the plugs were last changed, if ever; are the coils original; has the brake fluid been changed on schedule at every two years MIN.; check the pads and rotors, of course, and the serpentine belt. It the answers to the above questions were all original, then I would DEFINITELY negotiate the cost of DIY or dealer service into my offer.
Also, make sure all the tools are in their preformed holes under the rear floor and under the rear seats. There should be an air hose attachment under the rear seats. Not there? I'd nick the price for that.
If I had access to the owner I would ask where he/she bought gas, too. May sound silly but I was buying gas at Costco because I was under the impression that "gas is gas" if the ground tanks are clean but my valve tops were FOULED like a dirty BBQ grill upon visual inspection when I pulled the intake mani for the coolant pipes change. Apparently, "gas is gas" but additives are NOT all the same. Since then I have switched to Chevron w/ Techron additive. Stuff is supposed to work well.
That gas change combined with the new plugs and coils has definitely brought a big PUNCH back to her performance.
But be warned... the power is intoxicating. If she's well taken care of, turn PSM OFF and punch it... just make sure you've got a runway lined up for landing.
Good luck. Great machine.
Last edited by JohnnyBahamas; 06-14-2010 at 05:11 PM. Reason: I was dropped on my head as a child.