reyxlp

I got stuck here:

"The other end of the cable connects to the actual wiring loom, depending on the side of the car, the whole plug will slide out to the left or right..."

We have an '06 CTTS and the problem is our driver side headlight.

I got to this step and was almost able to slide it out toward the engine but at the very end just before it slides all the way out it runs into a finned plastic box and there's not enough clearance to slide it out.

Anyone else run into this?

Really appreciate some help..

Thanks!

fortysixandtwo

So far, putting some electrical connector lube on the harness seal has fixed my near constant HID flickering, and occasional turning lamp malfunctions.
My issues started after installing new headlamp surround seals. Even after multiple attempts, over several months, to reseat the headlamp assemblies my issues not only did not improve, but became worse. After lubing them up, the lights have been solid for over a month now. At $1 for a throw away packet or $3 for a tube, its worth a shot.
Unless you have a deteriorated harness, the friction between the connector seal and socket are probably whats causing these issues for a lot of people.

jeff spahn

You all might want to consider using deoxit on the connection. made a huge difference for me. I use the 100% solution after cleaning.

Red5

This may sound a bit crazy. I was reading this thread and trying to get my headlight to work again without having to bang on the housing. Then I opened up my box of electronic stuff from my RC days. (Remote Controlled planes and such) I bought a couple bottles of this magic stuff and I used to pour it into a bowl and leave my brushless motors and the ESC completely submerged for 24 hours. Then if I would crash the plane into the water (very common for me when trying to fly a plane while driving a boat with dogs, girls and bourbon) my electronics would not get fried.

Well.....

I just squirted some of this crap onto my plug and now my headlights work GREAT! Just drove around the block and off road to hit a bunch of bumps and such.. so far so good.

check it out http://corrosionx.com/

And No... I'm Not a rep for them or anything like that. I do love it when my hobbies cross paths in a positive way.

deilenberger

Looks like good stuff, I used BoeShield T9 - https://boeshield.com/ - the guy who owns the company is apparently a fan of mine from motorcycle forums, and he's sent me some. It's also great to use on all the bolts under the car. If you catch them before they start to corrode they stay nice and clean. Gotta do that again soon since winter and ice melt will be here soon. I see the same company makes Rejex - also good stuff. Use it on my motorcycle shield, and on my helmet faceshield. Bugs wipe right off with it. I have waxed entire cars with it, and it seems to work equally as well as some much more expensive polymer based polishes.

Red5

Been a few months now and unfortunately my fix didn't hold for very long. Thought I would give a heads up before anyone went out and bought this stuff.

I'm still not clear on the OP and what he is telling me to do.

So I remove the harness and I cut off where it attaches to the holder that holds it in place? Then I somehow slide this connector into place through the old bracket and you think it will hold tight? Looking for some clarification. Mine is an 06 CTT-S. (Drivers side)

touareg

I am late to the party, but yes, you get a few extra mm of depth, if I recall correctly, and this allows it to fit more snug. You can do a test fit, before you commit. However some folks have problems with the plug pins being worn out in general, and needed a new harness.

touareg

Wow, I need to dig mine back out my parts bin and sell on ebay I bought it for a spare back in the day, dont remember what I paid but no where near that!

Aldo Monty

my 2010 PTT with only 10k mileage have this problem after driving about 30-40 minutes at night with Auto headlight on :
-Auto Driving Light Control Defective, then followed by ;
-Check front left dibbed headlight.

Scan by dealer, and shows error :
805C0E : Stepper Motor AFS, Position Sensor

Is this cabling problem ? or module ? please anyone help.

jmacgroup

I have a 2008 Cayenne S. Had condensation in the left headlight assembly after brutal cold spell last winter. Applied Silicone gel to seals, dried out unit gently with heat.
My driver's side low-beam headlight does not work (Xenon HID). THe cornering light works sporadically/does not work.
High beam is Fine, as is turn signal and lower fog lights. Issue is that I have to have both headlights working to pass inspection in my state (rapidly coming due), and my regular mechanic can not fix this problem. Took it to the dealer, who quoted me an astronomical price that made it so I am seriously considering trading the car, which would be a shame.
My question: the fix detailed in this post doesn't seem applicable- I have a really good fit plugging the harness into the headlight assembly. Also, can I conclude that the High Beam ALWAYS working correctly would indicate it is something else besides the wiring connection?
What steps should / could I take myself to investigate this that are cost effective, and in what order? I mean, after changing the bulb, checking the connection pins, electrical cleaner, and this trimming of the plastic fix? I do see that some of the wiring inside the headlight assembly has some insulation flaking off and the copper wire is exposed...
Should I get a new harness? Ballast? A whole new (used) headlight assembly? Other??
Any guidance from those with experience with these issues would be appreciated...

reyxlp

(Did the dealer actually give a diagnosis of what the problem is, and how they would fix it?)

YMMV but from my own endless months long saga of troubleshooting an intermittent driver's side low beam but everything else worked fine, including two highly rated Porsche specialists who couldn't figure it out, '06 CTTS:

(1) Is the headlamp 100% fully and properly seated in the headlamp tray? There are some guides that need to be lined up. When you're pushing it all the way back into place, there should be a loud "click" or "pop". ***If properly seated, you should not be able to remove it just by pulling it out (or even pushing it out from behind) without the special hex tool inserted and rotated to "pop" it loose. This ended up being my problem. Everybody missed it because when pushing it in there was a small "click/pop" at first, but it had to be pushed in with much more force than any of us thought to properly lock it into place, and that "click/pop" was so much louder once it was in right, I thought I had broken something.

(2) Swap everything you can swap, one item at a time, between D/S and P/S: each bulb, ballasts, etc. any pieces that will fit either side. (IIRC, wiring harnesses were side specific on my car.) If your problem follows any item from D/S to P/S, then that's likely your culprit.

(3) Compressed air can, contact cleaner and a toothbrush are pretty affordable, get your wiring harness plugs on both ends, as well as the headlamp plug they go into, as clean as possible.

(4) I wouldn't rule out the wiring harness just because most functions work. Don't know nowadays but I replaced both of mine for around $40/ea. I would do this anyway if some insulation is already starting to crack or come off.

Let me know if you're still stuck or have any luck...

jmacgroup

Hey thanks for reply.
(Dealer proposed - Replace headlight assembly and wiring harness due to wiring age and suspected shorting internally)
1) The headlamp is fully seated properly. the fins are intact and I also got that loud grinding sound with the tool tightening that I thought I broke something.
2) I was planning to do the swaps, but I read that sometimes after swapping and then replacing, then the passenger side lights start not working...
3) Will do that ... am doing it now.
4) OK... Question, I don't have the same harness that is pictured in this original thread... i don't have a white plug, both plugs are black... the insulation of the wire is not damaged or flaking... the plug fits tight. Also, on driver's side it seems tight to try to get the harness plug out of the engine block... how best to remove that?

Is it advisable to buy a used ballast and replace, or does this require matching/reprograming to work?
If I see some damaged wire insulation INSIDE the headlight assembly itself, is it possible to use contact cleaner and rewrap them with elec tape, or does some damaged wire insulation inside the headlight mean that I have to get a whole new headlight assembly???
Thx for your help.

reyxlp

Gotcha - yeah that sounds like last resort.

Swapping interchangeable parts is a pretty standard way to troubleshoot but yeah sure there's always the risk if the bad part is damaging related parts it could double your troubles.

I wish I remembered better, I dealt with mine years ago but I feel like one side (driver's?) harness was harder to unseat the plug (not at the headlamp end but the other end). I might have had to remove other parts to get it out but I'm not that advanced so it couldn't have been that difficult. I feel like I remember having to wiggle it around a lot, like there was a trick to seating it properly in the plug holder. Different car through, mine was an '06, might be different on yours and also might explain wiring harness plugs being a different color.

Ballasts on mine were swappable d/s - p/s, don't know if new ballast would need programming, sorry.

My understanding of contact cleaner (check the label of course) you should be able to spray in there and it might not fix it but shouldn't hurt as long as you allow to completely dry before any power. Not an electrical expert but I would think if the wiring is good and you're just losing some insulation, if you can reach it with enough room to rewrap, you should be okay as long as you use the right spec tape for the application.

Sorry can't be of more help but also keep searching here and on RT, I remember seeing many threads on this issue and maybe the answers for your case are out t/here.

jmacgroup

Right spec electrical tape? I didn't know that was a thing... what does that mean?

reyxlp

Some are rated for more heat resistance than others, moisture, etc-- don't let my sickness slow you down lol...

On our Audi, some connector plugs in the engine bay disintegrated due to age- I grabbed whatever electrical tape was on hand to wrap them up, checked on them couple of days later and the tape was melting. Then I read on an Audi forum that can be a fire risk. Engine bay way hotter than inside the headlamp, of course, but if it's close enough to one of the bulbs or ballast, I would use one that is heat rated and moisture resistant.