transmission oil change
05-27-2021, 05:55 PM
#31
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Without a doubt the hardest part is adding the fluid but the second hardest part is holding the new valve body with one hand and trying to get the bolts started with the other. It is very obvious when you take the pan off what you have to do to swap out the valve body.
lol.Steve
05-27-2021, 10:02 PM
#32
Drifting
Here is the transmission oil and filter change DIY from Pelican. The valve body is just one messy step more. I took picks of the wiring and how it looked before I removed the valve body.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ter_Change.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ter_Change.htm
05-28-2021, 10:18 PM
#33
04 CTT (955) Knocked this out last week.
Got the and replaced the big fill plug with a threaded hose barb: Used a LiquiMoly kit from FCP Euro with filter, gasket and all new hardware Might be overkill with all new bolts, plugs and round spacers.
Another oil option is This is the OEM stuff. (get at least 9 quarts if you are going to pump out the transmission cooler supply line to clear the old fluid in the torque converter)
And a to track what comes out.
Opened the drain and Drained 7 quarts
Dropped the pan
Got another .5 quart
Cleaned the pan and the six magnets
Replaced the filter, filter o-ring, the rubber pan gasket and all of the metal "O" shaped spacers..
Re- attached pan and substituted threaded hose barb fitting and an extra 5 feet of clear tubing instead of the new fill plug.
Clearing the old fluid in the torque converter by pumping out from the upper transmission cooler hose
First, pumped in Removed the transmission cooler hoses. (under radiator, single 10 mm bolt on the passenger side of the oil cooler.)
Put the bottom cooler hose loosely back in (that's the return hose from the cooler to the tranny).
Extended top hose with tubing loosely clipped to an empty bucket.
Added two gallons synthetic to the Motive fluid transfer pump
Started engine for a few seconds, then turned it off, maybe a pint pumped out, Opened the Motive fill valve and added a quart.
Started the engine, and with foot firmly on the brakes, shifted to every position for a few seconds, and again pumped out another quart.
Added some more new synthetic with the Motive
Kept pumping out until I got bright pink,
Added some more synthetic, kept pumping out until almost 3 quarts of clean pink came out.
Finish up
Reconnected the transmission cooler hoses
Then added the remaining quart of new synthetic
Monitored temperature with VagCom (VCDS).
At 39C, removed the barbed fill fitting and let overflow run into empty bucket, then trickle, and capped with a new drain plug.
All told, I spent about $300 in material, a pump, fittings and a big measuring pitcher.
So damn smooth now at 150k
Got the and replaced the big fill plug with a threaded hose barb: Used a LiquiMoly kit from FCP Euro with filter, gasket and all new hardware Might be overkill with all new bolts, plugs and round spacers.
Another oil option is This is the OEM stuff. (get at least 9 quarts if you are going to pump out the transmission cooler supply line to clear the old fluid in the torque converter)
And a to track what comes out.
Opened the drain and Drained 7 quarts
Dropped the pan
Got another .5 quart
Cleaned the pan and the six magnets
Replaced the filter, filter o-ring, the rubber pan gasket and all of the metal "O" shaped spacers..
Re- attached pan and substituted threaded hose barb fitting and an extra 5 feet of clear tubing instead of the new fill plug.
Clearing the old fluid in the torque converter by pumping out from the upper transmission cooler hose
First, pumped in Removed the transmission cooler hoses. (under radiator, single 10 mm bolt on the passenger side of the oil cooler.)
Put the bottom cooler hose loosely back in (that's the return hose from the cooler to the tranny).
Extended top hose with tubing loosely clipped to an empty bucket.
Added two gallons synthetic to the Motive fluid transfer pump
Started engine for a few seconds, then turned it off, maybe a pint pumped out, Opened the Motive fill valve and added a quart.
Started the engine, and with foot firmly on the brakes, shifted to every position for a few seconds, and again pumped out another quart.
Added some more new synthetic with the Motive
Kept pumping out until I got bright pink,
Added some more synthetic, kept pumping out until almost 3 quarts of clean pink came out.
Finish up
Reconnected the transmission cooler hoses
Then added the remaining quart of new synthetic
Monitored temperature with VagCom (VCDS).
At 39C, removed the barbed fill fitting and let overflow run into empty bucket, then trickle, and capped with a new drain plug.
All told, I spent about $300 in material, a pump, fittings and a big measuring pitcher.
So damn smooth now at 150k
Last edited by BrianC72gt; 05-30-2021 at 10:59 PM. Reason: added hyperlinks
05-29-2021, 12:42 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Without a doubt the hardest part is adding the fluid but the second hardest part is holding the new valve body with one hand and trying to get the bolts started with the other. It is very obvious when you take the pan off what you have to do to swap out the valve body.
05-29-2021, 12:49 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
You do get a bit dirty though.
little messy
The following users liked this post:
phatz (01-23-2023)
05-29-2021, 12:54 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Hi all 
Well ive been driving it for another week now, and all seems fine, think I was just imagining things or bumps in road I was mistaking for roughness, so for now I think I'll leave it as is, at least until im definite somethings not right lol.
Doing the oil change was easy in itself, WHEN you know what to do lol, so on that for future reference a few of you are saying you've done the valve body, so obviously I know what im looking at inside the box, but how do you actually go that last 5% and replace the valve body, is there any how to's or videos anywhere on it, or is it like just undo 4 bolts pull down and fit the new one in reverse lol.
And one last question you are all talking about a "Revshift" upgrade, I am actually in the UK, is there a UK equivalent you know of or does the Revshift ship to the UK ?
Thanks guys
Steve
Well ive been driving it for another week now, and all seems fine, think I was just imagining things or bumps in road I was mistaking for roughness, so for now I think I'll leave it as is, at least until im definite somethings not right lol.
Doing the oil change was easy in itself, WHEN you know what to do lol, so on that for future reference a few of you are saying you've done the valve body, so obviously I know what im looking at inside the box, but how do you actually go that last 5% and replace the valve body, is there any how to's or videos anywhere on it, or is it like just undo 4 bolts pull down and fit the new one in reverse lol.
And one last question you are all talking about a "Revshift" upgrade, I am actually in the UK, is there a UK equivalent you know of or does the Revshift ship to the UK ?
Thanks guys
Steve
Perhaps they ship to UK
