Coolant pipes A-Z.
#61
117K on my 2004 CS...... I received a message to check coolant level.... I did , it was low , added fluid. I have had zero indication of coolant pipe failure so far , not one drop under the car! I know I need them done sooner or later but my question is . Is it possible for them to have failed and yet give no indication? Could all the fluid be contained? I plan on buying the parts from suncoast and having a private mechanic do the work but wondering how safe I am to drive vehicle. Thanks Tim,
#62
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Have this inspected immediately. Continued vehicle operation once the engine valley coolant pipes start leaking is a very bad idea. It could mean the need for a new starter and or even replacement of the automatic transmission torque convertor seal. Both are expensive repairs but the transmission torque convertor seal replacement is a substantial one because the transmission must be removed for this repair.
Tony Callas
Tony Callas
#63
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Have your mechanic pressure test the system and see if there are any leaks. Some amount of coolant level drop over an extended period is normal. So if you haven't checked the level for a long time and there is no other sign of leakage you may be OK, but you should definitely get it checked. With your mileage and the vehicle age it would be smart to change the pipes soon anyway.
#64
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I would like to respectfully disagree because the automotive coolant level should not drop over time unless you have an internal or external leak or if the engine has been overheated to the point that the pressure release (AKA the Radiator or expansion tank) cap has been overcome. The automotive coolant system is a completely sealed system that will be allowed to expand and contract if the proper fluid level is maintained, hence the expansion tank or radiator air barrier, fluid will not compress but air will. If the engine valley area coolant pipes leak, the coolant may not make it to the ground, it could sit and evaporate on top of the engine or may dry up as is runs down the back side of the engine. By the time the coolant leak gets bad enough to reach the ground, other serious issues may have resulted, such as a saturated starter and transmission torque convertor seal. Tony Callas
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I agree, in theory, but at least one of our Porsche techs who posts here has said that some coolant disappearing is normal, and that if the reservoir isn't checked for extended periods it can get low enough for the "low coolant" light to come on. In my C-S I've added a slight amount of coolant at 1+ year intervals. It was pressure tested less than a month ago by my dealer and they said the system is tight.
If pred8tor hasn't been keeping tabs on his fluid on a regular basis it could be "normal" loss, but in view of the age and mileage you are absolutely right that he needs to have it checked out - and it's probably time to change those pipes out regardless.
If pred8tor hasn't been keeping tabs on his fluid on a regular basis it could be "normal" loss, but in view of the age and mileage you are absolutely right that he needs to have it checked out - and it's probably time to change those pipes out regardless.
#66
Thank you very much for comments and opinions. I have not checked fluid at all in the past. Have not driven the car since warning but topped off coolant and plan only a couple very short drives until I can get the parts and schedule the pipe replacements. At this point, I'm going to just go ahead and do it , I was just was trying to figure out 1. why if they are bad I didnt have any coolant aroma or leaks visable and 2. If it could be something else? Figures its a long weekend. Thanks again.
#67
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I would like to respectfully disagree because the automotive coolant level should not drop over time unless you have an internal or external leak or if the engine has been overheated to the point that the pressure release (AKA the Radiator or expansion tank) cap has been overcome. The automotive coolant system is a completely sealed system that will be allowed to expand and contract if the proper fluid level is maintained, hence the expansion tank or radiator air barrier, fluid will not compress but air will. If the engine valley area coolant pipes leak, the coolant may not make it to the ground, it could sit and evaporate on top of the engine or may dry up as is runs down the back side of the engine. By the time the coolant leak gets bad enough to reach the ground, other serious issues may have resulted, such as a saturated starter and transmission torque convertor seal. Tony Callas
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Petunia88$ (10-27-2021)
#69
Intake Manifold Bolt Torque?
Hi guys.
Relatively new owner, bought a 2005 S for the wife and wish I would have found this site BEFORE that because....
Wife called me on her way home and said she got a low coolant warning. I told her to just go home (a couple blocks away at this point) and not drive anywhere else until I could check it out. By the time I got home there was coolant everywhere in the driveway, seemingly coming from above the pass side LCA area.
Thanks to this site I am pretty sure it was a cracked coolant pipe so I ordered the parts and they should be here this afternoon.
Can someone help me with the proper torque value for the intake manifold bolts when we are buttoning it back up? Any other tips for this job besides the ones already posted? Thanks to all who have documented this repair already, I owe you.
Chris
Relatively new owner, bought a 2005 S for the wife and wish I would have found this site BEFORE that because....
Wife called me on her way home and said she got a low coolant warning. I told her to just go home (a couple blocks away at this point) and not drive anywhere else until I could check it out. By the time I got home there was coolant everywhere in the driveway, seemingly coming from above the pass side LCA area.
Thanks to this site I am pretty sure it was a cracked coolant pipe so I ordered the parts and they should be here this afternoon.
Can someone help me with the proper torque value for the intake manifold bolts when we are buttoning it back up? Any other tips for this job besides the ones already posted? Thanks to all who have documented this repair already, I owe you.
Chris
#72
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I have an addition question. I just finished up replacing my pipes today. After it was all back together, I will barely run. It wistles and chokes. I'm assuming this means intake manifold gasket leak. Anyone else encountered this? Revs high when I start it then surges and misses. Any thoughts?
#73
My pipes got replaced friday via private shop. There was no sign of leakage or failure afterall. The job was completed without any problems at all by a very **** mechanic. However he advised me after putting it back together and started it back up was making a loud ticking noise but running fine. They took it apart double checking everything making sure nothing got left or ended up somewhere it shouldnt have. The noise is still there . I have not confirmed but will check it out first thing monday morning argggghhh!!! Thought I was doing some preventative maintenance. I am hoping its just noisy valves or lifters that I noticed for the first time with hood open and inside garage while I checked for leaks just prior to bringing it in.
Sorry menzzer no idea on your problem.
Sorry menzzer no idea on your problem.
#74
hello to everyone,
like most of you, I'm here for this coolant leak. I'm preparing myself for changing them, and after reading all the pages I couldn't find the rigth part numbers for this one.
can someone dig in, and tell if these are the right parts needed? and if there is anything else I need?
I looked at the Suncoast site and it says that the kit is complete beeing a 17 pieces kit. I came here with more than 17, based also on op's first post; judging by pictures:
948 106 059 05 - metal pipes
999 707 517 41 - o-ring - 4 pcs
999 707 518 41 - o-ring - 2 pcs
946 106 259 00 - mounting upper part - 1 pcs
948 106 269 00 - mounting lower part - 1 pcs
948 106 279 00 - bush - 3 pcs
900 385 009 09 - torx screw - 3 pcs
948 106 016 03 - breather pipe - 1 pcs
948 106 240 00 - water hose - 1 pcs
999 512 389 01 - hose clamp - 2 pcs
999 707 370 41 - o ring - 2 pcs
948 106 230 00 - adapter
thanks,
Ilie
offtopic:
read about the 2007 955. is this true? does this one was sold on the european market? I've searched the market and couldnt find a listing for the 2007. all of them were 957. what engine code it has?
like most of you, I'm here for this coolant leak. I'm preparing myself for changing them, and after reading all the pages I couldn't find the rigth part numbers for this one.
can someone dig in, and tell if these are the right parts needed? and if there is anything else I need?
I looked at the Suncoast site and it says that the kit is complete beeing a 17 pieces kit. I came here with more than 17, based also on op's first post; judging by pictures:
948 106 059 05 - metal pipes
999 707 517 41 - o-ring - 4 pcs
999 707 518 41 - o-ring - 2 pcs
946 106 259 00 - mounting upper part - 1 pcs
948 106 269 00 - mounting lower part - 1 pcs
948 106 279 00 - bush - 3 pcs
900 385 009 09 - torx screw - 3 pcs
948 106 016 03 - breather pipe - 1 pcs
948 106 240 00 - water hose - 1 pcs
999 512 389 01 - hose clamp - 2 pcs
999 707 370 41 - o ring - 2 pcs
948 106 230 00 - adapter
thanks,
Ilie
offtopic:
read about the 2007 955. is this true? does this one was sold on the european market? I've searched the market and couldnt find a listing for the 2007. all of them were 957. what engine code it has?
Last edited by stealthTT; 01-31-2010 at 06:17 PM.