Coolant pipes A-Z.
#91
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Yes I agree, if the coolant pipes break while you are truckin down the freeway, that is a pain in the ***, could be a scary situation. I just don't think PAG is going to do anything. It can't hurt to do what you are trying to do however.
#92
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Cars have been blowing rubber radiator hoses and dumping their coolant for over a hundred years. So how many "safety recalls" have been issued over this? It's an inconvenience - granted a major one - but not a safety issue.
The only difference here is that it costs a lot more to repair the coolant pipes than to replace rubber radiator hoses.
The only difference here is that it costs a lot more to repair the coolant pipes than to replace rubber radiator hoses.
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Can someone help me with the required tools for this project? I am about to purchase a set of the "torx" sockets from Snap-on, but i want to make sure i purchase the correct sets. Torx, torx plus, torx tamper resistant? which sets??? Then torx socket driver sets? I am willing to spend the money, but since this is my wifes 06 CS i would like as little down time as possible (obviously the dealer would be a better route) and any insight would be appreciated.
#95
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I've owned # of cars in the past, but have only been with Japanese & German cars; never had a coolant pipe issue once in my life; not to mention that I keep my cars usually 'til they reach 150k miles.
Yeah, you can call me a lucky bastard! and no wonder why I'm extremely surprised with this issue.
Yeah, you can call me a lucky bastard! and no wonder why I'm extremely surprised with this issue.
#96
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Can someone help me with the required tools for this project? I am about to purchase a set of the "torx" sockets from Snap-on, but i want to make sure i purchase the correct sets. Torx, torx plus, torx tamper resistant? which sets??? Then torx socket driver sets? I am willing to spend the money, but since this is my wifes 06 CS i would like as little down time as possible (obviously the dealer would be a better route) and any insight would be appreciated.
1) http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessori...orscheservice/
2) When you get there go down to the fifth option titled "Technical Service Information" and click on it.
3) Once you click on "Technical Service Information" it will open a new browser window for PIWIS TSI.
4) Sign up for an account.
5) Once you have an account set up, sign in to the site and go to "General Functions" from the menu on the left side of the PIWIS TSI screen.
6) Once you're in "General Functions" go to "System Requirements" in the upper right.
7) Clicking on "System Requirements" will open a dialog window on top of your browser window. From that dialog window download the lastest Adode Reader, Adobe SVG, and the Side-by-Side plug in. No need to bother with the winzip thing. Never used it.
8) Once all those downloads are on your computer and working go BACK to "General Functions" on the PIWIS TSI home screen and click on "Order Document Access" in the lower left.
9) Use a CC and buy the $10 access.
10) Once you have the $10 in your PIWIS TSI account go BACK to the PIWIS TSI home screen and click on "Vehicle Identification" on the left side.
11) Click on "Identification via VIN" and enter your VIN and finish by clicking "continue" on the far right.
12) You will automatically be returned to the PIWIS TSI home. Once there, click on "Document Search", then click "Default Search", then enter the "Search Terms" COOLANT PIPES and choose the "Info Type" of WORKSHOP MANUAL from the pull down menu under "Info Type" and THEN click "Start Search".
13) Your number one search hit of a list of search hits will be "Removing and Installing Coolant Pipes (includes repair solution). Click on THAT.
14) Turn your printer on.
15) On the bottom of the screen there will be a command line with the crude symbol of a printer. Click that symbol of a printer.
16) A new dialog window will open with stuff to print titled "Removing and installing coolant pipes (with heater pipes)(includes repair solution). Print document. IF you have downloaded your Adobe downloads correctly then you will get a complete list of tools, diagrams of the tools, a complete list of steps, diagrams of the steps, and a complete list of torque settings.
17) Once you print that stuff follow the same procedure for "Removing and Installing the Design Cover", and then "Removing and Installing the intake-air distributor".
18) If you're into it download "Draining and filling in coolant (includes bleeding)".
At the end of this you will have spent $1.80 x 4 (for each of the document accesses you entered) and you will have the MOST amazing, complete, detailed instructions from Porsche on the what, where, and how of this repair... with diagrams!
Good Luck.
p.s. - I got a complete set of repair parts in a "kit" from Sunset Porsche in Oregon for a GREAT price and the Kluber Syntheso Glep 1 is available from Pelican Parts online.
#98
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No sweat. BTW, you're gonna need a set of Torx drivers including sizes T25 through T55. And, you'll need Torx sockets (the females) size E-10 and E-12. I just bought cheap-ish multi piece sets of both and put my money into my torque wrenches. Only torque wrench I used was the 3/8" drive Snap On QJFR-275 with ft. lbs. from 5 - 75. Oh, and a 3/8" drive swivel socket attachment for that passenger side, most rearward intake fastener.
Oh, and thanks to the GREAT rennlister porsche52, I know that the part number for the o-ring grease is 000-043-204-68.
If you've got the miles it's worth doing the plugs while you've got everything off. The plugs are 5/8" plug socket and you'll need a 6" socket extension to reach down into the plug whole... plus some way to connect the socket and extension together so you can get the socket off the plug head after torque down. I just wrapped one layer of duct tape around the extension tip before I put the socket on the extension... makes for a TIGHT fit.
Good Luck. It's a tough job.
BTW, I have an '06 turbo S. I decided to preemptively change the pipes. But, let me tell you that my '06 pipes were 1/4" thick, rock hard plastic that looked... and fought back... like NEW. For the LIFE of me I can not imagine those pipes cracking. Maybe, just maybe, by '06 they had toughened up the plastic pipes?
Oh, and thanks to the GREAT rennlister porsche52, I know that the part number for the o-ring grease is 000-043-204-68.
If you've got the miles it's worth doing the plugs while you've got everything off. The plugs are 5/8" plug socket and you'll need a 6" socket extension to reach down into the plug whole... plus some way to connect the socket and extension together so you can get the socket off the plug head after torque down. I just wrapped one layer of duct tape around the extension tip before I put the socket on the extension... makes for a TIGHT fit.
Good Luck. It's a tough job.
BTW, I have an '06 turbo S. I decided to preemptively change the pipes. But, let me tell you that my '06 pipes were 1/4" thick, rock hard plastic that looked... and fought back... like NEW. For the LIFE of me I can not imagine those pipes cracking. Maybe, just maybe, by '06 they had toughened up the plastic pipes?
Last edited by JohnnyBahamas; 03-15-2010 at 11:57 PM.
#99
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Ok..looks like it just happened to mine. These posts are very helpfull my only question is in regards to where the coolant leaks out. Mine seems to be comeing from a hole/tube on the bottom rear of the motor right above the pinnion rack. Is this a drain tube from the intake valley? I have attached a picture. I just want to make sure before I order the parts and tear into it that I have the pipe problem. Thanks for your help.
#101
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OK. Finally downloading some photos of my preemptive coolant pipe install.
First two, things I recommend the "shade tree" mechanic should have to make your life MUCH easier when/IF you decide to do this job.
An air compressor with a "Vacula". That's a venturi based suction device powered by the compressed air. Priceless for vacuuming up coolant.
Next, cable spring clamp pliers, REALLY good, wide mouth spring clamp pliers, and a LONG, movable MAGNET for picking up the occasional dropped fastener.
Then, how I got the small piece of the lower pipe out of the freakin' motor. Dasco 431 "Scratch Awl", 4 lb. hammer, an "eye" hook, and a standard "tie down" attached to an immovable object. In my case, the concrete filled post in front of the car. Carefully pound the scratch awl into the small piece of lower hose as FAR BACK as possible... idea is to pierce the metal liner in the lower hose. Make a hole just large enough to screw in the "eye" hook and attach the long end hook of the tie down to the "eye" hook screwed into the metal hose liner, and ratchet the PITA right out of the motor. Came out nicely. Much quicker than fighting the small piece of the lower pipe with a pair of Vice Grips and elbow grease.
Final pic just in case some day I have to PROVE that the pipes are metal.
First two, things I recommend the "shade tree" mechanic should have to make your life MUCH easier when/IF you decide to do this job.
An air compressor with a "Vacula". That's a venturi based suction device powered by the compressed air. Priceless for vacuuming up coolant.
Next, cable spring clamp pliers, REALLY good, wide mouth spring clamp pliers, and a LONG, movable MAGNET for picking up the occasional dropped fastener.
Then, how I got the small piece of the lower pipe out of the freakin' motor. Dasco 431 "Scratch Awl", 4 lb. hammer, an "eye" hook, and a standard "tie down" attached to an immovable object. In my case, the concrete filled post in front of the car. Carefully pound the scratch awl into the small piece of lower hose as FAR BACK as possible... idea is to pierce the metal liner in the lower hose. Make a hole just large enough to screw in the "eye" hook and attach the long end hook of the tie down to the "eye" hook screwed into the metal hose liner, and ratchet the PITA right out of the motor. Came out nicely. Much quicker than fighting the small piece of the lower pipe with a pair of Vice Grips and elbow grease.
Final pic just in case some day I have to PROVE that the pipes are metal.
Last edited by JohnnyBahamas; 05-22-2013 at 12:36 PM.
#102
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^^^ WOW I'm impressed by your Macgyver skills!!!^^^ I have never seen it done that way before!! Talk about re-engineering the wheel.
#103
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If you've got the miles it's worth doing the plugs while you've got everything off. The plugs are 5/8" plug socket and you'll need a 6" socket extension to reach down into the plug whole... plus some way to connect the socket and extension together so you can get the socket off the plug head after torque down. I just wrapped one layer of duct tape around the extension tip before I put the socket on the extension... makes for a TIGHT fit.
The spark plug socket itself swivels but not a lot, enough to get the job done though.
KD Tools spark plug sockets
Last edited by Slow Guy; 12-24-2014 at 01:39 PM.
#104
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I just finished using them on my '97 993 last w/e
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#105
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Since I removed the metal sheeting on the right side of the engine it wasn't bad at all. I had more problems getting the bolt that holds the pass. side muffler bracket loose than anything else. I don't know what gorilla tightened that bolt....
I'll be upgrading the shocks/springs in a couple of weeks.
I'll be upgrading the shocks/springs in a couple of weeks.