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Coolant pipes A-Z.

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Old 09-17-2009, 11:43 PM
  #16  
ltc
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Originally Posted by Vino View Post
+1 -my wager says 2006
Nope.
Only the 2007 Cayennes had metal coolant tubes...and titanium forged pistons, a dry sump and twin plug ignition...
Of course this 2007 Cayenne proved to be FAR too expensive to produce, so they quickly rounded up all of the 2007s worldwide and went back to 'the good old days of plastic"
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SCOTITUDE View Post
Im into this one real soon. Starting to smell AF, coolant level dropping and now the starter is making noise. How long for the job? Have a parts list? Were the hoses all remove and replace or was there any fab work? Great photos, def gonna tape them to the garage wall for the job. Great reference. TIA.
If you do attempt this repair (DIY), I have a few tips that may prevent some headaches and f-bombs.
* Prior to pulling intake, with compressed air, blow all debri (dirt, leaves, etc) off engine from were intake meets engine. Prevents FOD getting into cylinders/intake valves when intake is lifted off.
* The back left torx screw for the intake can be a pain in the butt your first time. Use a smaller extension, it will be very tight, ratchet will be touching main wiring harness loom. You will see what I am talking about. Just don't drop any tools back there, they never come back!
* The injector connectors can be a little tricky, I use a long flat blade or hose hook tool to depress the lock and with the other hand pull the connector off.
* As soon as you disconnect the fuel line, DO NOT open the drivers door or you will spray gas all over hell. Tell your buddys, kids, wife, etc!! Note: the injectors and rail stay on the intake manifold, do not remove them.
* The brake booster line connection (back left) is a bit tricky too, I pull the intake forward and up a little, gives you some room to get your hands on it.
* Cover the intake ports for obvious reasons.
* Now I leave the water pump pully and belt on. In the very last picture, see that hard metal line coming into the T-state housing (enters from right center of pic) You must remove the torx screw. Lever out metal line very carefully and pull aside to get at torx fastners for the T-state housing. You will have to battle with this line a little bit to remove the housing but it is not bad. If you wish, you can remove this line all together, it goes down the the alternator, would also have to remove the belt from the W/P pulley and pully too. Your choice.
*Just brake off platic bleed lines and remove bits with pic from engine. Small little lines in first pic. You will be replacing them.
*Now the fun part. To remove the Lower pipe, I use an air saw. (pic #7)I cut the pipe in this location. Once pipe is cut, I pull up and towards the front of the car. This snaps the pipe off at engine (pic #8). To remove the remaining pipe you see, I use a Mapp gas torch (reason to never open the Drivers door!!) and heat the surrounding area, using vise grips, pull the plastic chunks and metal rings out. Then clean bores with suitable emory cloth or scotch bright, brillow pad etc.
*Lube o-rings with suitable grease. Porsche has a grease for this very purpose.
* In pics 11 and 12, you see the small section of rubber hose. Prior to installing the lower pipe, you must slide the rubber section of hose all the way onto the metal pipe. Pic 12, see the square flanges on pipe, the hose must be slid all the way down until it touches them. Silicone spray is a must for this. Fit the hose clamps as pictured do not tighten them yet. Fit the billet insert first, then fit the end torwards water pump, push it in as far as it will go, rotate pipe down into position, then you can slide the rubber hose off of metal pipe onto billet insert and complete the connection. Now you can secure the hose clamps.
* To remove the upper 3 pipes from T-state housing, if you have a vise, place housing in vise, not to tight that you damage it. Then you just snap the pipes off. To remove remaining bits, I have started to use the same air saw and very carefully cut the pipe from top to bottom inside the bore, then just use a flat blade and lever it out. Lube o-rings and tap pipes into place until the bottom out.
* To fit new T-state requires special tool, but you may be able to Macgyver something up.
* Flush intake valley with clean water during repair.
* Fill system, allow engine to reach operating temp, drive it, let cool. Top off system. should be good to go!
* Take your time, It will probably take around 6-9 hours pending on your skill level. If it is a turbo, let me know, a few extra tid bits that must be done.
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:53 PM
  #18  
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This is a pretty good write up on this issue... thought I would add some tidbits.

be aware that you can rotate the vacuum line fitting's housing where it goes to the intake manifold, this sometimes allows you easier access to squeeze the two little tabs to allow it to release. It also helps to dis-lodge the venturi tube from the passenger side secondary air pump bracket to give you a little more wiggle room

As to removing the 3 upper plastic tubes from the manifold (t-stat housing) instead of using a bench vice, etc an alternative is with the coolant manifold (t-stat housing) still installed, diisconnect the hoses from the rear of the tubes and then grab onto the tubes near the manifold using large vise grips, squeeze tight enough not to break the tube but you need to get some grip on them. While gently rotating the tube by wiggling the vise grips back and forth, use a medium pry bar to lever against the vise grips thereby extracting the tube from the housing. A little penetrating oil probably helps.

the t-stat needs no special tools.. iirc a pair of needle-nose works well. Use the tips to depress and then rotate the thermostat's flange to "unlock" it from the housing.

For the pieces of coolant pipe that break off, I use a flat chisel and cave-in the metal ring of the coolant pipe and then grab onto it with some vise grips and pull them out that way, sometimes using a prybar for additional leverage

As to cleaning the sealing surfaces of the aluminum, use whichever method mentioned above you prefer to remove the bulk of the corrosion, and then finish it off using a wheel cylinder hone & your drill (along w/ some sort of lubricant like cutting oil or penetrating oil)

the porsche O-ring grease is great stuff, but don't use it on the connections where the hoses attach to the rear of the 3 upper tubes, it makes them rather slippery and I almost think they would pop off under pressure.

I also suggest filling / bleeding and then applying pressure to the cooling system prior to reinstalling the intake manifold so you can check for leaks, especially at the rubber sleeve w/ the hose clamps on it.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:22 PM
  #19  
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Hi,
Can anyone help....I have a 04 Porsche Cayenne Turbo and I've had a problem with some heating
Pipes.
Friday Night I was at the lights and I took of quite quickly when 5 second later steam appeared from no were. I stopped immediately because I got a warning message saying it needed coolant.
Looked underneath and there was a big paddle of water on the floor though to my self this doesn't look good so I called tow track.
I spoke to Porsche in the morning and described the problem and was told that it could be the heating pipes and that parts would cost around £500 plus labour and told me it will be a big job.££££££
So I decided to take it to a trust worthy garage I've used for some time (don't trust Porsche) to Carrie out the works and they
found that the Cayenne has some rigid plastic pipes that deliver water to the engine block and too had cracks in them and are located in the centre of the engine block (Big Job)....so they ordered some new ones for about £500 from Porsche and when my mechanic asked them why they were so expensive Porsche told them because they had to modify the pipes to aluminium due to problems with the plastic ones. So my question is...if the pipes had to be modified surely is warranty problem?????. Porsche know about this so why don't they have a recall if the pipes are not fit for purpose.
I would like to know if any one has had this problem as I intend to make a complaint about this to Porsches head office.(well try anyway)
All Comment would be appreciated.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:58 AM
  #20  
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^^^ ^^^
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:04 AM
  #21  
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I know I should not jump on this but you are not dealing with a charity here, nor are you dealing with Mcdonalds about over heated coffee. Just bite the bullet and pay the money and try to sleep at night. You will get exaclty no where with this and it will cause you to lose sleep, grind your teeth and generally become a very angry person.

This is a time to "go with the flow" which is exactly where the coolant went.
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Old 10-02-2009, 01:42 PM
  #22  
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Hello, I have a 04 Cayenne Turbo and one of the plastic pipes broke having the same coolant leak issue. It ended up running down the back of the motor and dripping by the tranny. It's currently at service getting the issued fixed but when they had the Intake Manifold off they noticed coolant on the intake valves. Could this be a cause from the leak under the intake? or do I have a head gasket issue coming on? Thanks... Bill
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:22 PM
  #23  
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My pipes just sprang a leak last Friday. 05 Cayenne- 58k miles. Dealer replaced with the new pipes under warranty.
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Davern1 View Post
My pipes just sprang a leak last Friday. 05 Cayenne- 58k miles. Dealer replaced with the new pipes under warranty.
CPO warranty?
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:10 PM
  #25  
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at 58K miles, I doubt it was an 'out of OEM warranty, but done as a gesture of good faith' repair ...
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:32 PM
  #26  
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I just bought an 05 CTT. I just went out and tried to look at it to tell if I have replacement pipes. Can I tell without taking it apart?
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:08 AM
  #27  
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I just bought an 04 S two weeks ago. It has 80,000 Kms (48k miles)...

I knew about the coolant issue as well as a few other items. My plan is to replace the pipes myself in the next month or two....I'm in the process of gathering up the parts.

Right now I can't see any leaks but I noticed the coolant was a bit low when I went to look at the car...... So I suspect it may become a problem in the future......

As far as I can tell there is no way to tell if an engine has the modified pipes installed. The intake manifold has to come off to see that area.....Quite a pain unfortunately......I can't believe the starter is there as well!!!

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Old 11-06-2009, 08:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by evomotion View Post
I just bought an 05 CTT. I just went out and tried to look at it to tell if I have replacement pipes. Can I tell without taking it apart?
I would like to know if you can tell too. Does anyone know? I am thinking that it is so buried, that it may be almost impossible.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:55 AM
  #29  
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Hi all,

I have a few questions before I start this.....

1) I notice that several people change the upper cooling line support brackets. These are items 16 and 17 in the parts catalogue. Is this necessary?

2) Does the thermostat housing have to be removed to install the upper tubes??

Depending on the answers this will require adding the support brackets to the required parts. If the thermostat housing has to come off there are two items required, a gasket, and a rubber seal. Also, if the housing is off I would imagine changing the thermostat is also a good idea...

I appreciate any input. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress on this as well. Hopefully I can save someone from any unnecessary grief!!

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Old 11-18-2009, 01:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ltc View Post
Nope.
Only the 2007 Cayennes had metal coolant tubes...and titanium forged pistons, a dry sump and twin plug ignition...
Of course this 2007 Cayenne proved to be FAR too expensive to produce, so they quickly rounded up all of the 2007s worldwide and went back to 'the good old days of plastic"

No 2007 Cayenne in US market....

My CS was built in 10/2006, do you think it has the cheapo plastic pipes?
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