i have a spungy soft brake peal that i mentioned to the dealer. they said it was with in the standards of stopping. (yes, it eventully stopped!)
i just installed new rotors in the front and replaced brake pads as well. ATE rotors and Hawk ceramics and i did bleed the break lines. broke in the pads as suggested and still had a soft pedal and can not get the ABS to come on. so I installed Hark HPS pads and just for good measure bled the brakes again. still soft pedal and no ABS. the stopping power is very poor. the rear pads and rotors look fine so i have not touched them yet.
does anyone have any suggestions.

 

I dont thinks its the pads at this point

 

Did you by any chance let the brake fluid drain completely out of the master cylinder? If yes, there's a pretty good chance there's air in the lines up near the MC.

I just fought this battle with my G500, after installing new rotors and rebuilding the calipers. I had to do a reverse pressure bleed to get it out of there and achieve a good hard pedal.

 

we kept presure in the lines as we bled the brakes, but i will check the master cylinder. It almost feels as if the master cylinder has failed and not producing enough presure

 

When I asked if you allowed the fluid to drain completely, I was talking about during the disassembly to replaced the rotors. It sure sounds like you have air either in the lines near the MC or in the ABS unit. If so, it is a major hassle to get rid of it.

 

when i replaced the rotors, all i did was remove the calipers and installed the new rotors, so i don't see how this could have allowed air to enter into the brake lines. Am a missing something?
if i do have air in the line (that what it feels like), is there an trick other than bleding them to get the air out of the MC or in the ABS unit?

 

On some vehicles you must disconnect the brake lines to remove the calipers. In doing so, unless they're plugged, the fluid drains out. I haven't yet worked on a Porsche, so I don't know what's necessary to remove the calipers and I had best withdraw from further discussions on this subject.

 

there is no need to brake the seals on the cayenne

 

mudman2
any thoughts on why my brake pedal is soft?
if it possible to have air stuck in the MC? if so, how can i bleed it out?
thank you

 

I would love to feel this for myself, unless you can get to GJ on tuesday or wednesday haha, Courtyard.

I wonder if the fluid just needs to be replaced, heating at altitude may have an effect.

 

when i flushed the brakes i used the entire liter of super blue, so i think the fluid is fine. i hate to take it to the dealer, but it might be my only option at this time?

 

Not sure how you bleeded your brakes but here's an article you may find helpful:

http://www.wikihow.com/Bleed-Brakes

"For ABS type brakes, you may need to use a scan tool during the bleeding process to cycle the pump and valves."

"Some later model vehicles call for a special bleed proceedure known as a "Bleeding Sequence" due to the various valves and systems used now. Be sure to consult a professional first before attempting to bleed as problems and or damage to your brake system can happen if improperly bled."

Dealer charges $100-$150 in my area (Los Angeles). But since your dealer told you its normal which you do not think so, I suggest you go to another dealer or independent shop.

 

Bumping this old thread, can any one take me through a supply list? How much brake fluid should I buy and what is the process to and during flushing......

I think I should buy some cheapo stuff to flush the system, then put in a liter of ATE Blue...

Thanks...