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Tool for removing brake rotor?

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Old 10-30-2007, 08:43 PM
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Renn 951
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I took a couple but didn't think they added much over the pad change photo's provided elsewhere. The rotor change was really very straightforward. Big breaker bar got the caliper bolts loose, but be careful with the upper one near the brake line. All the brake lines are hard lines, so you have to be careful not to allow the caliper to move too much while swapping out the rotors. I just bungee'd them to the air strut. The rotor fastener was a T50 torx as indicated by Brad, and it wasn't frozen in place so I didn't need to use an impact wrench to get it off.

This pic helps show how the wear sensor is routed. The cables on the replacement sensors that Sunset sent me were too short for the wire to go all the way back to the plug, but I did a quick splice job into the old wire to make it work. you can also see the heads of the two caliper bolts on the left side.

In this pic you can see the T50 Torx fastener at the 10 o'clock position on the rotor.

The only other trick is refastening the caliper bolts. My torque wrench didn't go to 200 lb-ft but I bought one at Home Depot for about $75 that did the job. I was able to get enough height with the jack to get enough rotational travel on the wrench to hit the number, but just barely. Doing the job on a lift would be easier, but it was certainly manageable with a jack and stands.

Hope this helps!

Old 10-30-2007, 09:05 PM
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mudman2
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Thanks for a usefull addition
Old 10-30-2007, 09:22 PM
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MadFox
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Renn951:

Let me digress... from the highly technical and stimulating pics and what type of torx and ft.-lbs. are needed in DIY rotor-dom!

RE: the top picture -- am I correct in assuming that you have framed pictures in your garage?? i.e. do I see the rollers and track for the garage door on the right side of the picture..

Wow... if so, my garage needs an upgrade.
Old 10-30-2007, 10:07 PM
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Wow, you have a good eye, MadFox, to spot all that! Here's some bonus pics to get you motivated for that garage upgrade:






And here's what the place looked like when the project started back in March:




Needless to say, I'm very happy with the transformation!!

Old 10-30-2007, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Renn 951
Wow, you have a good eye, MadFox, to spot all that! Here's some bonus pics to get you motivated for that garage upgrade:

And here's what the place looked like when the project started back in March:

Needless to say, I'm very happy with the transformation!!
Before and after pics are amazing... you can earn some good commissions for your contractor with those pics! I'm officially jealous. YOU gotta be an engineer or ex-military to be that spotless!?????? My closet is close ... but the garage is boring but clean.. (my wife drives me crazy stacking schitzu everywhere).
Old 10-30-2007, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MadFox
YOU gotta be an engineer or ex-military to be that spotless!?????? My closet is close ... but the garage is boring but clean.. (my wife drives me crazy stacking schitzu everywhere).
Actually, I am an engineer - doing weapon systems acquisition for the Navy!

My wife is an Interior Designer. She specializes in kitchens and baths, but I got her to stretch and do the garage design - with lots of customer input from me, of course!
Old 10-30-2007, 11:45 PM
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just curious, what jacking point did you use? I'd like to use a crossmember to get it up to use stands.
Old 10-31-2007, 02:33 PM
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http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2733742
http://web.mac.com/renojoints/Touareg/Brakes.html#0

...6pack of beer in parts IS essential for successful completion of above procedure...


OZRacing

Last edited by ozr; 10-31-2007 at 02:51 PM.
Old 10-31-2007, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by charlieXS
just curious, what jacking point did you use? I'd like to use a crossmember to get it up to use stands.
See the owners manual section on lifting the vehicle (p. 278 in mine.) You can use point A for jacking the vehicle with a floor jack , and put a jack stand at point B. If the floor jack interferes with placing the jack stand, you'll have more clearance if you just use the jack from the toolkit in the trunk (p. 284 in my manual.)

Old 11-04-2007, 04:04 PM
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Back to topic

With the wheel turned and suspension up and off, the torque wrench easily removes the caliper bolts.

Time for both sides, 90 mins including getting the tools out and putting them away.

I put on drilled rotors and Hawk dustless pads.
Old 11-04-2007, 10:07 PM
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Michael,
How are you liking the drilled rotors and how long have you had them on your truck? Are you seeing spidering due to the heavier weight? I would like to go to the drilled rotors but premature spidering concerns me.
Old 11-04-2007, 10:09 PM
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BTW Renn, I like what you did with your garage. Nice before and after...
Old 11-04-2007, 10:22 PM
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mudman2
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Hi Craig

I just put them on, I will keep an eye on them and post the results. I know someone who has had them on for 30+K with no problems

Mike
Old 11-05-2007, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mudman2
Hi Craig

I just put them on, I will keep an eye on them and post the results. I know someone who has had them on for 30+K with no problems

Mike
which pads? Hawk Ceramics?
Old 11-05-2007, 08:02 AM
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They are Hawks, but not the top level ones which loose to much bite, according to hawk.


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