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Put a bottle of Techron in the tank - no better
Still feeling like it is misfiring or "stuttering " under mild- moderate acceleration
Any ideas before i go back to the dealer?
I don't have a problem with coils. Yet. I may some day. My question relates to build date. I have heard about a certain build/assembly date as being of some significance. I want to know what that date is and what the significance is.
Oh yeah, since you asked, no problems with shell fish.
Well, drove by the dealer and let the service tech drive the car. It did what i have been describing, briefly , during our 10 minute drive. So a call went into Porsche Tech center, and they have no answer to the problem
I have been pushing to get the coils replaced, but the dealer said they won't without a fault code. States it could be the fuel management system, etc - no way to tell
JF Scheck - did you have a fault code, how did they know to replace the #3 coil
most lemon laws say 3-5 times in for the same problem. if they are trying to push you past the warranty, as soon as you hit the threshold (check your state laws) hit them with the "final repair attempt" letter.
it will either grab their attention, or they will blow the callback window, in which case you can get a new one or your money back (in 8 months and counting).
really the final repair attempt letter should get the district manager in.
I know that this is an ancient thread but i wanted to post the fix that I found for my 2005 CTT. Basically it would feel like there were rapid gaps in acceleration under WOT, I thought that it might be a fuel pump issue but went for a cheaper approach to troubleshooting before dropping $600 for new pumps. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and the problem is gone. Total cost around $300. Easy 90 minute fix. Lots of articles on how to change them.
I know that this is an ancient thread but i wanted to post the fix that I found for my 2005 CTT. Basically it would feel like there were rapid gaps in acceleration under WOT, I thought that it might be a fuel pump issue but went for a cheaper approach to troubleshooting before dropping $600 for new pumps. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and the problem is gone. Total cost around $300. Easy 90 minute fix. Lots of articles on how to change them.
Thanks for posting. Did yours feel like blips of reduced power (say only 90%) while under full throttle or was it more significant? Mine (06 CTT) seems to do the former occasionally - - annoying to me, but not sure that others would notice. I've been treating with Techron, which seems to help. Durametric doesn't indicate that I'm misfiring or setting codes, so I don't think its a coil issue. Am curious to know more about what parts you replaced and how many miles you have.
Necro bump for future posterity. Although I had no codes, my stuttering was the coils. New Berus fixed the stuttering. Got stuttering on a 955? It's always the coils...
Necro bump for future posterity. Although I had no codes, my stuttering was the coils. New Berus fixed the stuttering. Got stuttering on a 955? It's always the coils...
Was there any crack or external sign of failure in the removed coils? Mine look good but I am suspicious since I can feel a misfiring-like idle : currently waiting for the plugs to arrive and replace because #5 and #6 were oily and if that doesn´t work I´ll go for the coils I guess.
I am curious about the cracks or external signs, also. I replaced all of my coils about 2 years ago and I am having the stuttering issue, now, with no CELs.
kadn,
Please let me know the results of your coil replace.
My 2006 CTT with 56k miles had revision 8 Porsche coils. A year or two back, I was having stuttering and pulled the coils and changed the plugs. At that time, I found only 1 coil that was clearly cracked, so I replaced that single coil. Surprise: The stuttering was substantially (but not entirely) eliminated. Usually it was gone, but other times it was back, but not nearly as bad as it was. Over time, however, the stuttering became worse again -- and it usually felt "binary," i.e., like an individual coil would act up (or act right) and make the stuttering stepwise worse/better. Over Christmas this year, I needed to replace the valve cover gaskets which required removing the coils -- might as well replace them while I'm in there. When I pulled the coils out this time, all but 1 or 2 was cracked (and one of the uncracked coils was the new one I'd replaced a year or two earlier). I replaced all my coils and the stutter is gone.
These aren't my coils, but this picture I found is pretty much what mine looked like when I removed them.
Some other thoughts: While I think that a cracked coil may still function fine, it's probably best to replace them. And honestly, if you've got any cracked coils, you should probably just replace them all as you'll likely be back in there in the not too distant future to fix a different one. Additionally, I believe that coils don't have to be cracked to cause stuttering, and since a bad coil doesn't tend to throw a code until it's really bad (and likely cracked), troubleshooting coils can be a PITA. Here's a couple suggestions if your coils are newish and uncracked but you have stuttering and don't want to replace ALL the coils again:
1) If you have Durametric or a good OBD scanner, log the misfire count for each of the cylinders over multiple drives and see which cylinders are over-represented in misfires. The coils on those cylinders are your likely issue. Replace those coils.
2) Buy a couple new coils and swap them into the engine in a an orderly fashion, i.e.: Install on cylinders 1 and 2 and test drive. If it's better, then one or both of those coils is suspect. If not better, put the original coils back on 1 and 2, swap the new coils to cylinders 3 and 4, and repeat. This is a time consuming process of elimination, but if you don't put all the beauty covers and coil hold down bolts in place, I'd think you could get this done in an afternoon, and then verify it works for a week or so before putting it all back together permanently. Again, this assumes you've got newish coils that are stuttering lightly with no cracks and you're trying to save a buck. If they're old/cracked, don't bother with this process -- just replace them. New coils are ~$250. Not cheap, but not outrageous by PIG standards.
Lastly, FCP Euro sells Beru coils at a price that's not much higher than the cheapest you'll find on the web. The key difference is that FCP offers a lifetime warranty. So if you have to replace a couple (or all) coils again in a few years, you'll at least not have to buy the parts.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply and troubleshooting tips Brainz.
I did remove them from my 04 CS one week ago to check its condition and I was surprised they were version 21 being 22 the latest as far as I know and with no cracks at all after a thorough inspection under good lighting. I still think the new sparks should fix it because they looked bad IMHO:
#5 plug as it came out #6 plug looked the same but here is shown after cleaning.
On my CTT, I run single-pronged NGK Iridiums and the gaps are much smaller than on the four-pronged Bosch Supers above. I'm not sure how gap size impacts misfires, but swapping to new plugs is probably warranted before replacing coils that aren't cracked. Those plugs look a little rich/oil fouled.
06-07-2007, 04:56 PM
