Front Brake Pads DIY Instructions
02-15-2010, 03:07 PM
#47
Well, two comments to try to let you "weight " the job difficulty:
You have to remove the caliper to take out the rotor. The rotor is fixed to the hub, with a single Torx 50, that is easy to remove. Basicaly, the rotors are fixed to the hub (being in "sandwich"), by the pressure of the wheel fixation, which, when you understand that one, brings you to more attention to apply the correct torque to the wheel 19mm bolts (95 Ibs*ft) !
Well, to remove the caliper, there are two mission critical 21mm screws that neds to be removed and the torque is very high (200, as per Mudman2), this is a tough one. (200 Ibs*ft is quite a good torque.)
I can mention that changing a little bit the angle (steering wheel) on each side could help to have a better access to these bolts, particularly, the one in the top.
(Note that Sunset recommend changing these (not expensive) screws, I did put now ones back.)
The other tough one is holding the caliper (it kind of need two hands), while removing (and replacing the new rotor), a task that also need two hands). One solution is to disconnect the caliper, but then, you had to flush the liquid, etc.. that "complicate" a bit the process, ..and also in general requires two persons too !!
Beside these two tasks, all is pretty much a piece of cake.
Patrick
You have to remove the caliper to take out the rotor. The rotor is fixed to the hub, with a single Torx 50, that is easy to remove. Basicaly, the rotors are fixed to the hub (being in "sandwich"), by the pressure of the wheel fixation, which, when you understand that one, brings you to more attention to apply the correct torque to the wheel 19mm bolts (95 Ibs*ft) !
Well, to remove the caliper, there are two mission critical 21mm screws that neds to be removed and the torque is very high (200, as per Mudman2), this is a tough one. (200 Ibs*ft is quite a good torque.)
I can mention that changing a little bit the angle (steering wheel) on each side could help to have a better access to these bolts, particularly, the one in the top.
(Note that Sunset recommend changing these (not expensive) screws, I did put now ones back.)
The other tough one is holding the caliper (it kind of need two hands), while removing (and replacing the new rotor), a task that also need two hands). One solution is to disconnect the caliper, but then, you had to flush the liquid, etc.. that "complicate" a bit the process, ..and also in general requires two persons too !!
Beside these two tasks, all is pretty much a piece of cake.
Patrick
Last edited by GVA-SFO; 10-27-2010 at 12:16 AM.
02-16-2010, 08:31 PM
#49
Well, thanks a lot again Mudman2, this was a real great post.
By the way, the friend that did the works with me, told me that he has a "golden rule" : When mounting new rotors, allways cleaning them carefully with brake cleaner (a spray that is seriously recommended to use outside). This is a very strong degreaser/cleaner.
I noticed while doing this operation that the fresh kitchen paper used became quite black (greasy) after drying the surfaces of the rotors, so, this seems to be a very good "rule".
The goal is not to have a "clean room" level of sanitization, but reducing any kind of grease is good at this given place !!
Also, it is not recommended to touch the brake surface of the pads, after unpacking them.
But applying "brake grease" in the pistons side of the pads would help to not have squeaky brake, even in my case, using OEM (Brembo) pads, that are equiped with a kind of film in the pistons side for that same reason !
By the way, the friend that did the works with me, told me that he has a "golden rule" : When mounting new rotors, allways cleaning them carefully with brake cleaner (a spray that is seriously recommended to use outside). This is a very strong degreaser/cleaner.
I noticed while doing this operation that the fresh kitchen paper used became quite black (greasy) after drying the surfaces of the rotors, so, this seems to be a very good "rule".
The goal is not to have a "clean room" level of sanitization, but reducing any kind of grease is good at this given place !!
Also, it is not recommended to touch the brake surface of the pads, after unpacking them.
But applying "brake grease" in the pistons side of the pads would help to not have squeaky brake, even in my case, using OEM (Brembo) pads, that are equiped with a kind of film in the pistons side for that same reason !
10-26-2010, 04:13 PM
#50
Some time ago, i.e.: about 10'000 miles, I did, thanks to this great topic, the front pads and rotors (first change of the pads, and as a lip appeared on the rotors, I decided for both).
This was around 44'000 miles, not bad for such high-end high efficiency brakes, ..on a 2.5 tons car.
Now, I'm getting ready for the rear, with the same strategy, as a lip also appeared on the rear rotors. 56'000 miles, and this will be first pad change.
I get ready, and thanks to the continual great service of Jeff at Sunset, got the pads, rotors, and kit, including sensors, new screw, springs..
And, a week after receiving the material, ..the brake sensors appeared on the dashboard !
Well, when this topic is pretty perfect (thanks one more time to all of you) for the front rotors and pads, (Ok, the title is Front, ..not Rear, right !), It seems to me much less complete for the rear.
I went for an "investigation trip" in the rear, removed the wheel to check few things..
And now, I have few questions:
As, the rear is (as written already) very different:
a) In the front, we have different rotors, one for Left, one for Right, in the Rear, both are the same, is this exact ?
b) In the rear, the pin that keeps the pads on place is not the same as in the front, the pin is not having a nut, but a "goupille", to stay on position.
c) The bolts that fix the calipers are not standard 21mm as in the front, but a kind of 12 pt TORX 60, that above, some of you named it "triple square 16mm", and some other ZXN ??
Well, 3 squares would for sure "do" 12 corners, but, if you look at these strange nuts, the angle at each point, ..is NOT 90°, so, to me, it does not really looks like 3 squares !!!
(I still looking, for the tool for this one, as : none at Kragen, none at Autozone, none at Orchard. Next will be Napa, ..will see !)
I found a Torks 60 6pt at Autozone, that fits perfectly the bolt, but, I did not take it, as I think, applying the high torque that such bolt need, this would be very unsafe to act on only half of the points.
Big question on those : what torque should be applied to these bolts ?
(In the front, I remember that the 21mm are set to be done with 200 Ibs*ft, but, what about the Rear ??
I think I read somewhere about 160, but not sure of that. Any idea ?
d) The rotors have the Torx 50, but also a second, smaller, screw, that need to be removed.
What is the size of that one ??
And : By the way, I suppose that the torque to apply for the rear Torx 50 is the same as for the front, i.e.: 37 Ibs*ft. Is this correct ?
Thanks a lot in advance, I would be very happy to have answers on the above "long" list.
Note that may be (..message for the moderator) we should start a new thread, for "DIY Rear Pads and Rotors" ?
This was around 44'000 miles, not bad for such high-end high efficiency brakes, ..on a 2.5 tons car.
Now, I'm getting ready for the rear, with the same strategy, as a lip also appeared on the rear rotors. 56'000 miles, and this will be first pad change.
I get ready, and thanks to the continual great service of Jeff at Sunset, got the pads, rotors, and kit, including sensors, new screw, springs..
And, a week after receiving the material, ..the brake sensors appeared on the dashboard !
Well, when this topic is pretty perfect (thanks one more time to all of you) for the front rotors and pads, (Ok, the title is Front, ..not Rear, right !), It seems to me much less complete for the rear.
I went for an "investigation trip" in the rear, removed the wheel to check few things..
And now, I have few questions:
As, the rear is (as written already) very different:
a) In the front, we have different rotors, one for Left, one for Right, in the Rear, both are the same, is this exact ?
b) In the rear, the pin that keeps the pads on place is not the same as in the front, the pin is not having a nut, but a "goupille", to stay on position.
c) The bolts that fix the calipers are not standard 21mm as in the front, but a kind of 12 pt TORX 60, that above, some of you named it "triple square 16mm", and some other ZXN ??
Well, 3 squares would for sure "do" 12 corners, but, if you look at these strange nuts, the angle at each point, ..is NOT 90°, so, to me, it does not really looks like 3 squares !!!
(I still looking, for the tool for this one, as : none at Kragen, none at Autozone, none at Orchard. Next will be Napa, ..will see !)
I found a Torks 60 6pt at Autozone, that fits perfectly the bolt, but, I did not take it, as I think, applying the high torque that such bolt need, this would be very unsafe to act on only half of the points.
Big question on those : what torque should be applied to these bolts ?
(In the front, I remember that the 21mm are set to be done with 200 Ibs*ft, but, what about the Rear ??
I think I read somewhere about 160, but not sure of that. Any idea ?
d) The rotors have the Torx 50, but also a second, smaller, screw, that need to be removed.
What is the size of that one ??
And : By the way, I suppose that the torque to apply for the rear Torx 50 is the same as for the front, i.e.: 37 Ibs*ft. Is this correct ?
Thanks a lot in advance, I would be very happy to have answers on the above "long" list.
Note that may be (..message for the moderator) we should start a new thread, for "DIY Rear Pads and Rotors" ?
Last edited by GVA-SFO; 10-27-2010 at 12:10 AM.
10-27-2010, 12:06 AM
#51
My quest to continue to find "the tool" to remove the rear calipers, I did continued my "tour", i.e., not easy at all:
. None at Napa,
. None at Pep Boys,
. None at Tooland Inc., that is a pretty complete unique (not a franchise) tools store in Redwood City !
All of that, to finaly get one at the Snap On rep, in San Mateo !
Expensive bit (43 bucks), but in stock and a great quality tool.
. None at Napa,
. None at Pep Boys,
. None at Tooland Inc., that is a pretty complete unique (not a franchise) tools store in Redwood City !
All of that, to finaly get one at the Snap On rep, in San Mateo !
Expensive bit (43 bucks), but in stock and a great quality tool.
