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Part no's for OEM brake job with rotors

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Old 12-22-2004, 11:14 PM
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JARO
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Default Part no's for OEM brake job with rotors

My dealer wants to charge about 2k to do my brakes with new rotors. I know I can save major bucks if I take the parts to one of the few foreign car repair shops that specialize in BMW and Porsches around Chicago. I need the part list and a good source to get these..any suggestions?
Old 12-23-2004, 02:25 AM
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DEETZ22
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why do you want to change the rotors?

I am using Frozen rotors, dimpled slotted. It works really well, I use the stock brembo brakepads. The rotors costed me around 880bucks for a set and the brakes was very cheap
Old 12-23-2004, 02:25 AM
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here some photos



Old 12-23-2004, 09:01 PM
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JARO
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well, the dealer tells me that the rotors are worn too much...what is the part no for the frozen rotors and where did you get them? Why do you recommend them?
Old 12-23-2004, 11:23 PM
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bancu
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http://www.frozenrotors.com/racetrack.shtml should give you the answers to some of your questions. You can also look at http://www.frozenrotors.com/brakefaq.shtml. There's also verbiage in this article: http://www.metal-wear.com/Articles/H...20Progress.pdf.

I got a set of rear rotors from Frozen Rotors for my ML55 a couple of months back. It's too early to tell if the cryo treatment is buying me anything but they have a heck of a lot of field reports (http://www.frozenrotors.com/ravingfans.shtml) indicating that it helps with premature wear.

They (the Frozen Rotors folks) are also straight up on drilling, dimpling and slotting. Any of these 'enhancements' is going to increase pads consumption. I don't know what your experience on other traction control equipped vehicles is but my MLs have needed pads frequently enough (especially on the rear) without any 'help'. That written, I may opt for slotting the fronts when the time comes to replace them. I'm hoping the less intrusive nature of PSM will cut down on that issue a bit on the Cayenne but we'll have to wait and see.
Old 12-23-2004, 11:54 PM
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hmmm...good stuff...I guess...my Cay S will not be raced but there is high speed 80-110 MPH highway and also aggressive street driving in extreme cold and hot as well. That is daily stuff. Not much if any offroading. Just want to get no squeeking and less brake dust as well as be able to get more out of the rotors...I just don't want to replace the rotors every time I replace brake pads. Now I might also think to have the Brembo pads froze as well...
Old 12-23-2004, 11:54 PM
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38D
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Originally Posted by JARO
well, the dealer tells me that the rotors are worn too much...what is the part no for the frozen rotors and where did you get them? Why do you recommend them?
How many miles do you have on the car? I would ask to see the tech put a micrometer on the rotor and show you the thickness reading (and then show you in the manuals what the acceptable range is). It normally takes quite a bit of time to wear thru the rotor.
Old 12-24-2004, 12:26 AM
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bancu
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Originally Posted by JARO
hmmm...good stuff...I guess...my Cay S will not be raced but there is high speed 80-110 MPH highway and also aggressive street driving in extreme cold and hot as well. That is daily stuff. Not much if any offroading. Just want to get no squeeking and less brake dust as well as be able to get more out of the rotors...I just don't want to replace the rotors every time I replace brake pads. Now I might also think to have the Brembo pads froze as well...
I hear ya. It's the weight of these things that seems to do them in.

Driving SUVs as my primary vehicles has made me quickly realize that things are a quite a bit different when it comes to brake related topics. I've heard of built-up SUVs going through pad/rotor combinations in as little as 2-3k (on road not track) miles.

I'm pretty sure that I've only gotten around 22k out of rear pads on both my ML 430 and 55. While others have noted that they're replacing pads at 10k miles or under. Active traction control really seems to do things in. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't drive without now but it will be interesting to see what happens on my CT. I can still remember being taken back the first time my MB service advisor told me I needed pad...on the rear before the front.

I'm reserving my personal observations on cryoing the rotors based on the long term performance of the rear ones I just put on my ML55. From what we can tell by driving around, the cryoed Brembos with Porterfield carbon/kevlar pads seems to be matching the stock Mercedes/Brembos performance wise. They certainly seem to have bedded in nicer and quieted down much sooner than the stock setup. For that matter (not that this is an issue when it comes to my safety) the combination _appears_ to be producing less brake dust.

I think I've read some stuff that says cryoing the pads doesn't buy you anything.
Old 12-24-2004, 12:42 AM
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JARO
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Bancu, one of your links which takes you to the .pdf file actually says that you can get 2-3x life of the pads.
Pesky, indeed I will have the dealer prove to me that I do need the brakes. If it looks like it's the pads great, if I need the rotors I'll try the frozen set or just get regular ones and then based on Bancu's experience perhaps get the frozen rotors.
Old 12-25-2004, 03:56 PM
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Deetz has the best setup available for the cay as far as rotors are concerned. For regular street use the dimple/slot is actually only a cosmetic upgrade however it does look cool (I think painting the calipers red is also a great idea IMO). The frozen idea does change the metallic structure and leads to longer rotor life however at $150 a rotor in my area. Again for normal driving I cant see the reason.

As for driving 110MPH ON THE STREET I wish you would explore the limits of this 5000 lb truck on a track much safer and more fun.



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