pull engine
Guess I have to pull the engine myself. Indy is too busy and dealer doesn't want to do it. Looks like I get another lift (two post this time) and a 1750# lift table to lower the engine/trans. Isn't learning fun!
Sorry man! That sucks. Although it should be a fun project...
I wish I could get a lift into my garage... the height is too low and it will cost me five figures to get a variance to raise the roof...
It is really not such a big job... Well of course it is a huge job but it still isn't impossibly difficult. Took me about 12 hours, outside, no lift, only a 3ton floorjack and stands. Absolutely the biggest hurdle is getting over the initial terror and just starting. It gets easier after that.
Jeff - Have you found a reliable time estimate for dropping the power pack without removing the front? I can’t find a number for how high to lift for enough clearance. A lot of folks through the years have said pulling the front apart was a complete *ss pain. My experience taking the front apart and replacing a good deal of it, after a kamikaze deer episode, was not as difficult as it was tedious. I recall both Mr Haney and J’s World went dolly out the front.
Just wondering what cost/benefit factors you considered in case (knock on wood) I need to get crazy on my motor. My limiting factor would be standard garage height. In my case I could use an engine hoist, but would probably not be able to raise the Pepper enough to dolly the power pack out with a lift…although I’d love to see the look on Wifey’s face when I asked if we can get a two-post.
Just wondering what cost/benefit factors you considered in case (knock on wood) I need to get crazy on my motor. My limiting factor would be standard garage height. In my case I could use an engine hoist, but would probably not be able to raise the Pepper enough to dolly the power pack out with a lift…although I’d love to see the look on Wifey’s face when I asked if we can get a two-post.
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Jeff - Have you found a reliable time estimate for dropping the power pack without removing the front? I can’t find a number for how high to lift for enough clearance. A lot of folks through the years have said pulling the front apart was a complete *ss pain. My experience taking the front apart and replacing a good deal of it, after a kamikaze deer episode, was not as difficult as it was tedious. I recall both Mr Haney and J’s World went dolly out the front.
Just wondering what cost/benefit factors you considered in case (knock on wood) I need to get crazy on my motor. My limiting factor would be standard garage height. In my case I could use an engine hoist, but would probably not be able to raise the Pepper enough to dolly the power pack out with a lift…although I’d love to see the look on Wifey’s face when I asked if we can get a two-post.
Just wondering what cost/benefit factors you considered in case (knock on wood) I need to get crazy on my motor. My limiting factor would be standard garage height. In my case I could use an engine hoist, but would probably not be able to raise the Pepper enough to dolly the power pack out with a lift…although I’d love to see the look on Wifey’s face when I asked if we can get a two-post.
Prior post. Turbo oil seals are bad. Gotta pull them and get turbos rebuilt. Local shop can't do it, too busy. Dealer isn't interested. I can buy a lift and lift table for less than the dealer wants for 2/3 of R&R.
I don't think it's possible to remove the turbos with the engine in the car. They are held on by 3 bolts that go down through the exhaust manifold from the top. Perhaps if you could get the exh manifolds off the engine?
When I changed my engine I removed the front of the car which really was not that big of a deal. The worst part of the entire thing was the two clips that hold the radiator to the front crash bar.
I recovered the refrigerant and removed the A/C condenser. I removed the P/S cooler. I did not disconnect the transmission cooler because I could tell all the lines into the thermostat were seized and that was going to be a big problem to disconnect.
Getting the airbox intake pipes through the holes in the core support was also tricky.
I removed the bolts holding the front LCA's to the subframe and removed the subrame separate from the engine. I left all the suspension parts on the car.
When I changed my engine I removed the front of the car which really was not that big of a deal. The worst part of the entire thing was the two clips that hold the radiator to the front crash bar.
I recovered the refrigerant and removed the A/C condenser. I removed the P/S cooler. I did not disconnect the transmission cooler because I could tell all the lines into the thermostat were seized and that was going to be a big problem to disconnect.
Getting the airbox intake pipes through the holes in the core support was also tricky.
I removed the bolts holding the front LCA's to the subframe and removed the subrame separate from the engine. I left all the suspension parts on the car.
So I am researching two post lifts and was wondering if anyone has experience with the Max Jaxx on lifting height. Will it lift high enough to get a lift table under there and get the engine out? I have a 4 post lift, that obviously won't work. Max jaxx says 50" max lift is possible. The lift table I am looking at is 19" high so that leave me 31" from my math.
anyone?
anyone?
Last edited by jeff spahn; Apr 1, 2023 at 11:27 AM.
“Can you verify if I pull the front off I can easily get to the turbos for R&R?”
Sorry to say no way to r/r turbos with engine sitting on the subframe. If you went at it from the front and hoisted the motor, probably ok. But, since you have the space, drop out on table less stressful. And you get more stuff for the garage!
Sorry to say no way to r/r turbos with engine sitting on the subframe. If you went at it from the front and hoisted the motor, probably ok. But, since you have the space, drop out on table less stressful. And you get more stuff for the garage!
So I am researching two post lifts and was wondering if anyone has experience with the Max Jaxx on lifting height. Will it lift high enough to get a lift table under there and get the engine out? I have a 4 post lift, that obviously won't work. Max jaxx says 50" max lift is possible. The lift table I am looking at is 19" high so that leave me 31" from my math.
anyone?
anyone?
I did remove the front of the car including the radiator support and all the radiators. This let me roll the engine/transmission assembly out the front.

I cannot imaging trying to do all the disconnects with the front part assembled.
OP FWIW there is a thread somewhere on here talking through the procedure to R&R the turbos without engine removal. In his estimation it was worth it, but barely, if I recall correctly.
Gonna upgrade those turbos with the money you save!?
Gonna upgrade those turbos with the money you save!?
I dropped my engine with a lift table and a Max Jax lift. No problem at all. My lift table is a 1000 pound version and is 11" high.
I did remove the front of the car including the radiator support and all the radiators. This let me roll the engine/transmission assembly out the front.

I cannot imaging trying to do all the disconnects with the front part assembled.
I did remove the front of the car including the radiator support and all the radiators. This let me roll the engine/transmission assembly out the front.

I cannot imaging trying to do all the disconnects with the front part assembled.
I don't think it's possible to remove the turbos with the engine in the car. They are held on by 3 bolts that go down through the exhaust manifold from the top. Perhaps if you could get the exh manifolds off the engine?
When I changed my engine I removed the front of the car which really was not that big of a deal. The worst part of the entire thing was the two clips that hold the radiator to the front crash bar.
I recovered the refrigerant and removed the A/C condenser. I removed the P/S cooler. I did not disconnect the transmission cooler because I could tell all the lines into the thermostat were seized and that was going to be a big problem to disconnect.
Getting the airbox intake pipes through the holes in the core support was also tricky.
I removed the bolts holding the front LCA's to the subframe and removed the subrame separate from the engine. I left all the suspension parts on the car.
When I changed my engine I removed the front of the car which really was not that big of a deal. The worst part of the entire thing was the two clips that hold the radiator to the front crash bar.
I recovered the refrigerant and removed the A/C condenser. I removed the P/S cooler. I did not disconnect the transmission cooler because I could tell all the lines into the thermostat were seized and that was going to be a big problem to disconnect.
Getting the airbox intake pipes through the holes in the core support was also tricky.
I removed the bolts holding the front LCA's to the subframe and removed the subrame separate from the engine. I left all the suspension parts on the car.





