Hi all! This is my first post, I am today picking up my new (to me) ‘06 Cayenne Turbo S.

90K Miles, full service history and extensively looked after being a 2 owner (1 family) car. All the usual gremlins seem to have been sorted. Have agreed on £12,500… do you think I should work to get the price down more? I can’t find another car on the market in this condition in the UK (only 2 other cars for sale, one being a high mileage example with battle scars and one being a modified Gemballa car).

 

Have you had it scoped or inspected?

in the past I’ve done a deal where I buy, and take straight to an Indy for inspection and anything major they find we split the repair bill on. You might consider something like that.

 

Game over

 

Seems a good price for miles and service history. Color? Dual zone? I’ve loved having mine.

 

No inspection, it was just serviced by a Porsche main dealer - I called up and asked about condition of the car… they said it’s a good example and has had a no expense spared type of life.

Bought it at £12.5k… he did reveal that he picked it up from Porsche as a part ex for £9.5k and spent around £600 getting it right (new expansion tank, boot lid hinges, wheel refurb). I’m happy as I plan to keep for 3-4 years at the least.

It’s the exclusive Marine blue CTTS colour over a black extended leather interior, no Aluminium aero kit and no moon roof but all other boxes were ticked.

Aiming to get a new left headlight as it’s condensation cloudy, PCCM+ is on the list for apply play and in two minds about the secondary cat bi-pass (any thoughts?)… it’s a beast of a car but much too quiet!

 

Great purchase. Hope you enjoy your Turbo S as much as I enjoy mine. I don't think I'll ever sell mine as long as I have a place to park it. In fact, I would buy another if the right one came along.

 

Good price. Check the front rotors for wear lips. They're about $600-$700 each and no one makes the 380x38 proper replacements (380x36 won't work well).

 

I've machined calipers to suit thinner rotors before but I'm not sure that I'd bother in this application...

 

Yeah, such a limited use application probably not enough market demand.

36mm is the minimum rotor thickness on the TTS models where the original 38mm rotors should be replaced. Taking a 36mm rotor down to 34mm wear limit risks the pistons cocking in the bores or seal leaks.

​​​​​​My solution was to retrofit 958 PCCBs where I'll never have to replace my rotors for the life of the car and maybe do 1 set of pads.

 

I thought I just bought some from Porsche through FCP? Did I not get what is expected?

Or maybe you meant “nobody” other than Porsche?

An alternative to the ceramic upgrade, which we can all Jones for, is to buy the Porsche genuine parts from FCP. Then they are “free for life” after that, plus labor.

 

Yes, I meant no one other than Porsche or it's suppliers. FCP Euro carries them (item 1 or 3 from the snapshot below). Looks like my price reference was old as the rotor & pad kits for the 380mm Turbo S versions are now $1,800 but they would be guaranteed for life if you buy them from FCP Euro. This crazy pricing only applies to the 380x38 mm Turbo S front rotors. Other models running the smaller brakes have multiple sources and normal brake pricing.

 

Leaving >1mm of meat on the pads before replacement would alleviate this I guess?
Not ideal, but at those prices... Damn!

I can see a bit of lip on my fronts, but I'm not game enough to measure them now!

Ages ago my dad suggested using semi metallic (or was it semi ceramic) pads as apparently they wear the rotor much slower. Anyone know if this is true?

 

The other thing that determines rotor thickness specs is how large a heat since the manufacturer calculates is needed for the rotors to last an appropriate amount of time without warping under the temperatures generated. Taking 2mm of total metal volume out of the rotor will also reduce it's heat sink capability.

 

Mate if you can get those rotors up to temp in a Cayenne, I wanna be riding shotgun!

Point taken though.



OP, nice buy. Should be a blast to drive and no moon roof might save some potential water ingress headaches.

 

Warped disc's is a myth.
I don't want to start a war on this subject, but, it just irritates me a bit when over the years, I always hear, "Your brake disc's are warped".
What actually happens, is, brake pad material gets embedded unevenly on the surface of the disc, giving what feels like a warped disc.
The whole process would be too long an explanation here, but, just as ball park example. Brakes see approx 400deg f in normal use. A track day could push that to 1000deg. Cast iron in brake disc's would need 2000 plus to be able to warp.
The important thing is using the right pads for the application (quality, not cheap copies) and making sure the disc's are mounted to clean non rusty hubs.

As for the 38mm and 36mm disc's, what would be wrong in using a 1mm shim behind each pad?