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Hub nuts are all standard right-hand thread.
I don't like using impacts on any rolling element bearings if the bearing is to be reused. It's easy to brinell the races and now you need a bearing replacement.
I use a 3/4" drive socket with a 3/4" drive sliding T handle and a suitable length of pipe. Get someone to hold the foot brake if needed.
thanks for the info! Learning all the time. It had not occurred to me that an impact driver for releasing a nut could cause damage. Could you (or anyone) expand on “brinell the races?”
this came off after a few shots of wd-40, left overnight, couple hammer taps, and laying into it with the impact wrench.
in this hub, new bearings being pressed into new knuckle, so all good.
on the other side I plan to re-use the hub, so maybe a different technique is in order.
….and good gawd 460nm tightening spec. I hope my Indy will lend me the elephant sized torque wrench for 60 seconds…
Here's how I torque up the axle nuts on my 911 Turbo. These take the same 460Nm torque.
I use the 3/4" drive socket, a 3/4" drive extension, a 3/4" drive "torque cube" set for 460Nm (search Amazon to get one), a jack stand for support, a 3/4" drive sliding T handle, and a nice black iron pipe. Lean on the pipe until the torque cube beeper goes steady -> done. You'll never get there with 1/2" drive stuff.
Still on jackstands, waiting for driver/front salvage air strut, then indy to extract this bolt in the sway bar…
two questions:
1) I tore the tie rod end boot trying to get the LCA off. - is that a “just replace it now you dummy” or let it be and it might last a long time? (84K, no other current symptoms.)
new air strut arrived from a donor with 81K mikes. installed, bag leaked. Got a partial refund. off it came, remounted with my old bags, new seals, hockey puck, and bellows. The bellows does not rub the upright any more; success!
new UCA and LCA both sides. managed to puncture the brake dust shield using a pickle fork on the lower ball joint. Oops! Used a screwdriver to pry it off the rotor / no apparent damage.
Pro-tip for the lever sensors. Most diy guides say to remove it from the UCA while still on the car. Don’t bother. Pull the whole unit and remove it on the bench if you have to. And when you do, just push the pin through the mount, no need to pop the arm off the ball.
mine had quick links; the arm does not come off the ball, so the oem plastic mount broke instead.
eurowise sells aluminum mounts for $60 pair (much cheaper than buying new sensors at $300 each), and an upgrade.
adjusted quick links to oem length.
tried the torque cube above. It was bouncing all over the place, I’m never going to do this again, so it’s all going back to Amazon and I’ll ask the shop to torque it (I’ll just get it close).
all back together. To the shop for alignment and to extract that bolt on the sway bar.
no charge for torquing the new axle nuts!
yay! It’s drivable again!
back up on blocks for new brake hoses, a hard line to the front left caliper that was 1/2 pinched, and a brake fluid flush. Saw black specs in the old fluid… hopefully not a sign of horrors to come!
still wrestling with boost adaption code. Will try the charge pipe O-ring seal, cleaning MAFs, possibly a boost pressure sensor.
then chase an intermittent brake light warning and I think we are getting close to good to go.
man, it seems never ending…
thank you everyone for such a great community and forum.
Those are the factory Porsche Sport Techno wheels that have been painted. The staggered sizing is to clear the huge front CTTS brakes.
My 275/55/20 (on the sport techno rims) clear on stock suspension with some trimming. 275/65/18 are the same width and about 4mm bigger in OD (2mm change in radius). It will be very close in some spots but should fit. Different wheel offset will move things around a little, plus 2 tyres of the same profile in different brands may be different sizes. Most tyres measure up slightly smaller than they should according to the numbers. Mine should be 811mm tall but measure up bang on 800mm at 40psi.
275/65/18 are 32.1" dia, and more specifically, many vary in dia from 32.1-32.4".
275/55/20 are 31.9" dia, and more specifically your Falken Wildpeak AT3/W are 31.9" dia. So, 5-12mm smaller.
18230229[/url]]Cleaned out a spot in the garage. She deserves better than to be outside all the time!
this was unexpected: it turns out the durametric does NOT seem to be able to read ATF temp, while the Foxwell NT530 can. Now that I have both (and they are both within the return window), I may do a head to head feature/functionality comparison.
(has anybody already done this? Of course they have… where can I find that…???)
Durametric also would not read my headlight control modules at all, while Foxwell reports “15586 - Control Unit - wrong software version”. I’m really hoping I find a way to fix that. The headlights are functioning correctly as far as I can tell, just throwing dash codes.
for the TPMs, neither tool could find the module. I was thinking I might have a missing or dead module then thought to check the fuse. Yup, some idiot literally pulled the fuse and did not replace it. I did and now the module shows up, but has zeroes for the TOMS IDs. So now, hopefully any tire shop can get me my TPMS IDs, and either they or I will be able to learn them to the system and get that working. Yay one less thing!
diverter valves should be here Tuesday; hopefully I’ll get them in and recover some ponies. I’m sure I will also find oil, and maybe a dead cat in there. Who knows?
also excited to get auto headlights working once I get them not throwing codes. Auto headlights thread
wait - what fuse was missing and where? This might explain my lack of TPMS in my 04 CTT digital dash menu!
08-28-2022, 04:31 PM
; https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...l#post18294185
