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Gosh I wish everything were this easy. With the fuse in, the TPMS works. Duh 🤷♂️🤦♂️.
After a few minutes of driving I got a message that it was learning, and that it detected a wheel change. Once stopped, it kicked me into a menu to select my wheel/tire combo (currently winter tires on 20s).
Some were considered low/flat. This throws a red warning on the dash. We made a few adjustments with the onboard air (very cool feature), and off we went.
I wonder if there is a chart somewhere that shows what pressures it wants for the different combinations of tire type/wheel size? At the moment, it just seems to show the over/under psi. I wonder how to see the “target” psi for a given setup?
I find myself wondering about this suspension (tightness and plushness) more and more. I do have a crushed sway bar link end, that makes a clunk when the driver side front cycles up/down…
it will be interesting if u can get someone experienced with this ride to provide their subjective experience; is this “worn out” and I should start chasing bushings? Should I go poly? Air springs/dampers?
it just seems, subjectively I expect less harsh. There does not seem to be a “no duh” noticeable difference between comfort and sport, for example?
got a bit bunch of random trim pieces ordered up. Getting there on this “restoration” refresh of such an awesome ride.
I thought, that you could change the wheel/tire package in the DIC?
Could be wrong but I think I've seen that in there, before....
.
Thanks! Sorry, I don’t know what is meant by DIC?
I can as able to set the tire/wheel combo using the dash and the steering wheel stalk already.
I’m trying to find out what tire pressures are for the various combinations, assuming they vary somewhat. (Or else, why select different tire/wheel combinations?)
Driver Information Center. The digital interface in the center of instrument cluster. I don't know what Porch's teminology for that is. Sounds like you have that part figured out all ready.
There should be a sticker on the driver's door frame that specifies tire pressures for various combos and wheel location. If that is gone, I would next, look in the owner's manual.
It’s cool if air filters just bounce around, right?
I swear, the team who put this thing back together did not give a F…
or maybe they just wanted me to feel needed?
I went to replace air filters today and the whole intake box on both sides are just chillin in there with no fasteners to hold them in. Nice.
Get out the duct tape, bailing wire, and chewing gum… notice the yellow “R” reminding us this likely came off a donor Cayenne. This one has an eBay warehouse tag to confirm it is a donor part. This poor pepper got the sh*t beat out of it before arriving in my care…
It turns out the side marker error was just a loose connection. The bulb lit up as I went to remove it. Gah.
at any rate, I went ahead and tried the LEDs. They do not seem to work. Maybe with a resistor?
I put in new amber bulbs so now my clear side markers properly light up orange.
oh, and despite me trying to make it complicated, there is indeed just one bulb for both the side marker and fender well lights. Apparently my clear markers come with a 2nd blank socket that is not used, and only uses the socket and n the wheel well.
I thought about adding a second bulb anyways, but it is plenty bright as a side marker.
Having not worked on a car since regular oil changes in college, I’m feeling rather chuffed at taking in these DIY maintenance items. Tonight I tried the ATF procedure. About 1 1/2 hours later I’m almost done.
does anyone know if it is critical the engine be running when you check to see if it is drilling out the fill hole, or if I can turn it off to get out and check?
one part I’m unsure about is there was some gasket material stuck on the pan that just wouldn’t seem to come off. I’m hoping the new seal takes care of business.
OSHA approved footwear…
I hope that seals!
oh, and all the helpful diy videos and blogs and whatnot do a great job. No real surprises, except…
I let my engine sit for a few hours before starting. I figured I would clean up while the tranny came back up to temp… but…When I was done, the engine was still 140 ish and the ATF was mid 120s by the Foxwell and 115 or so with the pyrometer on the pan.
(in case you don’t know, you are supposed to fill it cold, and let it expand as it comes up to temp. So I've just done this backwards and will have to add more after it cools.)
well, shoot, it’s late. I put in the fill plug just a bit snug and I’ll get cracking on it in the AM.
I wonder how long it takes an engine to cool when it is done in the 90s outside 🤷♂️🤦♂️.
Phew, ATF change complete, drives fine. Not much noticeable difference. Based on the old fluid not being awful, I think this was already done at some point in this pig's life (only ~83K miles to date). I'll be watching that gasket for leaks.
“Installed” the firefly for Bluetooth. Aces
thanks to This thread
tackled the diverter valves. I was all psyched out for this one. Tear off the lower fascia? Geez! Nope; way easier. Just rip out the fender wells and intercooler scoops and they are right there.
but it didn’t fix the problem. Still way down on power. I’m salivating over the memory of that one pull I did with the pipes crimped off (making full boost)… I hope to get this sorted?
So it looks like the boost issue is related to the changeover valve. Access will require removing the intake. Oh joy!
So the list for that looks like some or all of:
- changeover
- update vacuum lines and tees
- update coolant tees from jagsthatrun
- spark plugs
- ignition coils to witch hunter for cleaning/service?
- walnut blasting intake valves?
- compression/leak down?
- flux capacitor
- gaskets, etc.
likely slowing down next few weeks as we head to CA to visit family.
Refreshed the engine air filters a couple days ago. It turns out there is a tricky fitting on the passenger side airbox that supplies filtered air to the PASM air pump. This thread has the right tip, and may get more info later on. Also removed the K&N filters that were in there. I'd be surprised if dyno measures anything objectively and I'd be surprised if the massive change in particulates getting through does not cause harm. I know this is a debate and others feel differently - I'm going OEM. And now they are "free" from now on thanks FCP Euro lifetime parts replacement!
AutoAtlanta is sending some random bits. Transfer case, PDCC, power steering, and engine oil, and spark plugs are all remaining items to refresh. Oh, and that damn boost issue is going to be a bear, so I'll likely send the injectors out to witch hunter while I'll be in down time. Oh and some suspension components like the bashed driver side sway bar end link. And an alignment. Is this fun? You bet it is!
Maybe I'll get to drive it someday! Maybe even on dirt and rocks and sticks and stuff! ;-)
Put a on bunch of random bits and fasteners. I think I ordered (or got shipped) the wrong part numbers for the engine caps (the “tail” is too long so they can’t mount into their spot), and the plenum cover (I think it is supposed to be slotted or louvered, but I got one that is a flat piece of uninterrupted plastic).
I am rather chuffed with having DIY’d this. Got some diagnostic help from the Indy, but largely did the work myself. That thread is a good low boost diagnostic read if you are having low boost issues.
got on a roll and banged out plugs and coils. Couple hours b/c I’m a noob, but that went rather easy.
Oh; will the car adjust to the new boost and coils/plugs? Should I be resetting anything or just let it figure it out? It used to throw a low boost and boost adaption code.
If you try it like this, the rubber holding the spark plug might be stronger than the extension coupling, so you’ll leave a plug socket behind. I taped mine together. Boom! Home modded spark plug extension.
Plugs. Assuming 83K factory original? Some of the anodes (? The tip inside the plug, not the bent part at the tip) seem really worn and small (is that a thing?)
Does anybody see something leap out at you from those plugs? They seem old worn, but normal to me, but I know nuttin - literally first time changing plugs on any car (but plenty of two stroke jet skis a long time back).
also, they had what I can only guess is dialectric grease all over the brass (?) end of the plug that goes in the coil. Kind of like Vaseline?
would that be a factory thing? Did some idiot put dialectric grease (an insulator) on the electrical connection instead of the porcelain insulator?
it should all be gone now.
coils all seemed intact. Two had cracks on the red housing part.
interesting; the bolts that hold the coils in were ferrous. I’m guessing steel on the shaft part (responds to magnet). But the replacements do not attract to a magnet and are presumably all aluminum.
it is possible someone was in there before? And maybe used non-aluminum? Or maybe those are factory spec and my replacements are wrong?
Oh, don’t noob like I did and use the 10 NM torque spec. You’ll shear it off and need to break out the extractor. 😢. 4 NM is the AllData DIY reference / FCP DIY vid says 6 NM. Not a lot. So I recycled one old one in there. Oh well.
now to finish the rest of the fluids and tend to some suspension bits, while addressing the rest of the little bits and fasteners and things missing. Like who throws in a power steering reservoir without the fastener to hold it in place…??? 🤦♂️ Or nothing for the pressure/temperature sensor?
Why no fastener? Again, let’s just hope it stays put… 🤦♂️
I am so pumped to be able to restore this thing to go fast and hopefully well-maintained and reliable. Thank you all for all the great forum help. What a great community!
07-04-2022 | 02:37 PM
TPMS resolved!
