ooshlav

I swapped out to the aluminum control arms last month and I just wanted to make this post to say that it is possible and actually not too bad of a job. I would say overall makes my front end feel a little less weighty when hitting pot holes and the like. In general a little better steering and cornering but that could also be due to the fact that I just replaced upper control arms and my tie rods as well. I only have this one photo I tookbut one thing that I thought was worth mentioning that I didnt see in other threads is that the control arms have this dimple on top of the end that connects to the lower part of the steering knuckle and on the aluminum ones that part is a bit bigger. at first I was upset because I thought I wasnt going to be able to get it to fit into the knuckle (and it doesnt help that the new joint was very stiff) but what I endded up realising I needed to do was to take the axle nut off and then pound the cv axle out of the knuckle about 3 inches and then the aluminum one fit in with no issues. after wards I put the cv axle back in and the clearances were just fine. I think that the aluminum one is just a little beefier than the steel ones because its less strong. overall id say this job was a 7/10 difficulty as there just wasnt a lot of info about it so I was mostly winging it but now that I have done it I feel like its a lot easier than before. in fact I just get my front bearings replaced last week because I am not too afraid of pulling the steering knuckle now that Ive taken it out before only takes me about 40 mins per knuckle.

aluminum control arm in
If anyone wants some more photos just lmk and I can crawl under the car or something.

Libast

@DIYDanCars on Youtube has this entire process. He has moved on from Cayennes, but wish we had known could have sent you the link

Rossi

957GT-YES

I replaced my upper and lower arms on my last GTS as well. It wasn't too bad of a job and I also opted for the aluminum arms from the Q7. I didn't take your approach on the nipple and after a lot of manipulation, I was ready to send them back. However, a shop where I was getting aligned at offered to put them on the grinder while I was waiting. For free! In the end, it's not a bad job and the front end firmed up nicely. I may have to do it again on my CTTS at some point and I'll check your idea as no doubt I won't have fate work twice in my favor... Cheers!

ooshlav

Yes I watched the Dan video but the main point I wanted to make this post over is that since he was installing the older steel arms they have a lot more clearance and in the video he didnt even need to touch the CV axle to fit the new control arm in whereas if you are upgrading to the aluminum newer arms youre going to need to either knock the axle back a few inches like I did or have the top ground down a little like 957GT-YES did

Libast

Ah ok! I still have the aluminum ones in my garage.. just waiting on me to have the need to install.

Thanks for the write up.

Corvetteboy6988

Im getting ready to do this next week, for mevotech supreme upper and lowers , the lowers in aluminum based on DIY dans recommendation on mevotech.

long story short, the left vs right mevotech lowers were different in the bushings, and ball joint, and the large bushing had an asymmetric bushing, a bit like the original steel normal turbo arms, but didn't seem fluid filled, but the right one didnt. Also that nub on the back side of the ball joint was protruding more on the right one, I'm sure it would have given me issues. Someone what mentioned that with mevotech. The mevotech uppers seem fine.
i ordered a second set of lower mevotech supreme arms, and these were different yet, all are snowflakes....no thanks, junk!

i went with the Lemforder 958 and Audi Q7 lower aluminum arms and uppers from fcp, should get them next week, will compare to mevotech before i send them back.

QUESTION, so what is that nub on the back side of the ball joint on the lower aluminum arms? Is it solid, or is it a pocket for grease. I don't want to grind into something if i have to to get these to fit, wound rather not have to pull out the axle so ill go with the grinding if its safe.

slavie

1. The large bushings are NOT fluid filled. I took my old one apart: it's got a hard plastic structure inside, no fluid or even room for fluid.
2. A picture would help tremendously in answering your question here about the ****. Aluminum arms are thicker and are even more of a bear to get the lower bj in - you have to stick the bj shaft into the hole and then wiggle the whole arm in place iirc.

Corvetteboy6988

Here are pics of the Mevotech arms im sending back.
numb/nipple is smaller in diameter on the left one, cause its taller.

this pic shows the difference in the 2 arms bushings. One looks solid, the other has a cut out on one side and a bump on the other, plus the center shaft is asymmetric. Reminds me of the original turbo big bushing, but probably not fluid filled. The overall bushing diameter doesn't look as big as others I have seen, even though the aluminum arm is bigger than the steel one at the big bushing.

Not sure what the Lemforders will look like, but im sure they will at lest be the same left to right. And based on pics the big bushing is symmetric and flat/solid.
i just want to know if grinding down that numb is ok if i need to with the Lemforders to get it to fit.

J'sWorld

I didn't have to do any of that. It was a straihtforward install.

ooshlav

Weird, there was no way mines were going in without moving the CV in a bit. For the lowers I got the ULTRA-POWER 521955 set from rock auto listed under the Audi Q7 2007. for the uppers I did the MOOG RK620622's because I read that MOOG makes good joints.

Corvetteboy6988

If you look at my pic with the mevotechs, not only was the nipple protruding more on the left one, but the ball joint casting itself was a bit bigger in diameter, and taller in height. I think there is just enough variation in manufacturing (which seems crazy) or in design, that some fit ok and others dont.

J'sWorld, you used the centric aluminum arms, correct?

I guess I will find out soon if the Lemforders go on without issue. hoping I dont have to move the CV or grind them.

slavie

I bet if you measured the machined height (bottom of nipple to top of arm where bushing sits) of those two arms you would find them to be identical. Arms are case aluminum, finish machined to spec. They don't look great, sure, but I don't see any functional issues. That's how it goes with aftermarket parts, they cost a fraction of OEM parts for a reason.

As far as fitment, you'll run into same issues with Lemforder arms.

Corvetteboy6988

Just over 0.25" difference, maybe that's enough to fit without issue or not!

Corvetteboy6988

Ok, so back to my question, don't need to debate which arms will work or not, or aftermarket vs oe, etc. Cause to be honest, Ive bought 1000s of OE and replacement parts and can't recall this amount of inconsistency within a manufacturer and specific part.
The fact Jsworld said he had no issues with his AL arms, is proof if you have tight controlled tolerances, stuff works, and his were relatively cheap aftermarket parts.

So what is the numb, is it just the end of the casting, is it solid and can it be ground down flat with the ball joint socket, is it a recess for grease?