Has anyone removed the front subframe bushings on a cayenne? Looking for bushing removal / installation tools. The bushing diameter looks like 92mm but it has tabs that make it 102mm.

 

Has this really not been done by anyone on a Cayenne? I’ve found limited information online, there is definitely a very expensive Porsche /VW tool but finding the right diameter universal tool seems to be a challenge.

 

I have done this. Removal is extremely easy. Take a sawzall and make a vertical cut in the aluminum shell of the bushing, cutting from the inside wall outwards towards the subframe (don't worry about the rubber insert portion). The trick is to keep the blade parallel with the cylindrical wall of the subframe and to not cut too deep (i.e. don't cut into the subframe). You don't have to cut all the way through for this to work. It only took me about 45 seconds to cut through the bushing wall and that includes stopping a few times to check my work. The next step is to take a hammer and give the bushing a good whack (coming from the correct side of course). If this is performed correctly, the subframe will be undamaged and the bushings should come out with one hammer strike. Only caveat is that I did this with the subframe removed from the vehicle. If you are planning on just dropping it a few inches then this may not work too well. You'll need something like the factory tool in that case.
To install the bushings you can make your own tool. All you need are a few cylindrical plates of the appropriate diameter with a hole in the middle, and a bolt (+ nuts and washers) to draw the bushing in.

 

Thank you, that seems reasonable. Did you cut the rubber out first or were you able to fit the sawzall blade in with the rubber in the bushing still?

I am definitely planning to remove the subframe...anything else I should try to replace while it’s out? I am already planning the motor mounts.

I guess I should include that it’s a 2006 turbo s with 130k miles. All of the rubber on it seems worn out, more so than my 2005 was a year ago.

 

I was able to position the blade in such a way that it slid right in and I could work around the rubber. You don't need to remove the rubber insert portion. Just make the single vertical cut.

High-pressure power steering line: Even if it hasn't started seeping yet it it likely won't be long before it starts. I'd do this for sure.
Oxygen sensors: Easy job with the subframe out of the way. Cheap enough that I'd probably do them.
Alternator: Tempting to get this one of the way since it's such a horrible job by itself. With the subframe out it's an easy job.

Maybe some of the Turbo owners will chime in with turbo-specific recommendations.

 

That's a good idea, I will plan to replace the high pressure line as well.

What are your thoughts on replacing the steering rack? My car has servotronic and the best rebuilt price I have found is $773 from Germanautoparts.com...Seems like lots of people have had seals leak on them. Not sure if this would also fix the play I have in the steering system...I have replaced inner and outer tie rods and ensured the bolt holding shaft to steering linkage is tight. Visually watching play,when someone in the car is turning the wheel back and forth slightly without car running, I can see the rack shaft turn but no movement in the tie rods. $773 seems like a lot for preventative maintenance unless it would fix the play I have? I would also have program the system after replacement...I have a vagcom tool that should work but I am not very experienced with it yet.

 

I found a few leaks while preparing to remove the subframe...I took some pictures, hopefully someone can help identify most likely source? I replaced the valve cover gaskets about 1k miles ago.

Dripping off the oil filter

Looks like leak is higher up than the filter itself

Oil on oil pan

Maybe oil plan gasket leaking?

Wet on a/c compressor

Another picture of the bottom of ac compressor

 

I forgot the the engine has to come out for the motor mounts on a turbo...given all the leaks should I just take the engine out? Fix all the leaks, replace motor mounts, replace more things proactively...

My 06 turbo S has a little over 100k miles on it...after reading all the posts on cylinder scoring, I’m worried I’m just wasting money by fixing anything on it.

I also don’t have a lift, so I will have to remove front clip and pull it out the front.

 

Like an idiot with a sawzall, I got too aggressive and cut into the subframe while removing the bushings...see picture...should I fill it with something like JB weld just to minimize stress concentration? Or buy a used subframe off eBay for $200 and try again?


Cayenne subframe sleeve cut angled through

Cayenne subframe cut most of way through on one side

 

That's a 100% bonehead move. Probably fine though, as the ring is mostly the holder rather than a stressed member (the arm is welded to the ring right around where you cut). JB Weld isn't gonna do anything here. Best to weld up the seam, but I'm gonna guess you don't possess a welder, so not much else to do.

 

yes, I was embarrassed to even post it but I don’t want to spend more time or money if I can avoid it. I do have a mig welder but I have not used it in 10 years. So there is a high likelihood of me causing more damage trying to weld up a 1/16” sleeve.

 

If you have a MIG and gas (or are we talking flux-core?), at least put a tack on the edge where it's almost through, then dress it up with a file to an acceptable shape. Don't try to weld up the whole seam if you're more likely to blow holes through. A tack on the edge should be enough to prevent it from splitting, if there was ever a chance of that happening in the first place.

 

i have mig but argon tank is empty...I think I have some oxygen and acetylene left, I could try that, it’s easier for me to control too.

 

I tried to remove mine on the car but got cold feet after rigging a press out tool didn't budge the old bushings.
Thinking about pulling just the subframe and using a large press to push them out.
Will need to rig something to hold the axle and PS rack.
Thoughts? Anyone try?
Did the control arms and sway bar bushings today.

 

Unbolting the ps rack and hanging it is definitely possible but I remember one of the power steering lines being in the way of pulling the subframe down, you might have to disconnect one of them at both ends. At that point it might be easier to keep the ps rack bolted to the subframe and remove as an assembly. The differential is best left attached to the subframe, so you’ll need to disconnect the driveshaft and hang it as well as the two axles.

The difficulty with the large press and subframe, which is what tried first, is getting the right size sleeve to hold the subframe while pressing the bushing out. I struggled to keep the subframe level as I put pressure on the bushing using my cheap harbour freight shop press. After I got the bushings out using the sawzall, I was able to press the new ones using the shop press though. A lot easier to press in vs getting them to move when removing them.