oppositelocksmth

Hello Everyone;

I just bought my first Porsche. It is a 2009 Cayenne GTS with 270,000km and a faint "broken clothes dryer" noise from the engine. Don't worry, I only paid $3,000 Cdn for it and I found a nice, low mileage replacement engine/transmission for slightly more than the purchase price of the car. I have a well equipped hobby shop and I've done a few engine swaps before, although never on something as modern as a Cayenne.

I've read as much as I can find about the cylinder scoring issue on the V8s - this one checks all the boxes. Slight rough idle when cold, metallic "lifter tick" on idle that goes away when revving and the car was parked outside in a cold climate. It's not loud enough to hear from the driver's seat unless you open the window in a garage. With the hood open it's audible but sounds more like "old car" than "it's going to blow up."

My question is this:
I've read some anecdotes about people having good luck quieting the noise by using Liqui Moly Ceratec and/or Liqui Moly Oil Flush, plus 5w/40 synthetic. I've also see some youtube vides with compresson tests before and after using Engine Restore, plus read lots of anecdotes about Engine Restore reducing smoking, roughness etc.

Has anyone had any luck with the Cayenne V8s and these "snake oil" products? Don't get me wrong, I'm going to boroscope the engine and have the spare sitting in the corner of the garage, but if I can get some improvement with an engine additive then for the cost it would be foolish not to try.

If you've seen an improvement, please let me know what you used and how you used it.

When I inevitably pull the engine to put in the new, low mileage one, what preventative work should I do other than coolant pipes? Engine mounts seem to be an engine out job so I'd probably do those - anything else I should do while I'm at it?

I'll post some pics of my $3,000 GTS shortly.

Lastly - the driver's door often won't latch. The seller told me he was quoted $1700 to fix it, and he showed me his "technique" for slamming with both hands (one on the inside of the door, one on the outside). I'm assuming its the latch mechanism and it requires the inner door assembly/window to come off but it doesn't sound like the other problems reported with door latches (i.e. not opening). Are there any other things to try before taking the door assembly out and replacing the latch assembly?

Thanks,
Chris

Avec

I had a loud tick that I was fairly certain was the beginning of the end. "Just to see", I ran Seafoam in the crank case, to solve possible sticky lifters, and poured a small amount of light weigh oil in the bore through the open spark plug hole. I ran the SeaFoam for about 500 miles before oil change, and cranked it for about 10 seconds at a time, for 6 or 8 times. Buttoned it up and drove it. One of the two things loosened it up and the tick is gone - has been for about 5000 miles. After the seafoam, I sent the oil in for analysis, and it came back all within acceptable. YMMV, but worth the couple bucks to give it a try

Pillow

Agreed that a 2009 should be solid and not likely a bore score victim... Try Avec's trick and see how it does.

Fro the door, crack the window when closing. Mine is tricky sometimes to close which seems to be more of a cabin pressure issue, only drivers door. Check for sag as well there are shim kits to realign the doors.

oldskewel

OP, you sound like you've thought this through extremely well. Sounds like you're on the right track with everything. Probably got a great deal.

On the door, I'll caution to not rely on a workaround working for long. It will be a significant problem if you end up getting the door in a state where it will not open, which does happen. A few threads on here about that.

oppositelocksmth

Thanks for suggesting checking the door alignment, I will do that first. Other than that, I can't imagine the problem being anything other than a faulty door latch and it looks like they are cheap enough so that will probably be 1st on the list of repairs.

jeff spahn

Replacing the door latch requires removal of the door unit carrier. This holds all the window parts, etc and bolts to the door. I had the dealer change mine (i provided the latch). They changed me $450. It was a deal. This way it is all properly adjusted. Consider this. Get the latch from roger at 928srus.com and have the dealer put it in.