Okay my new venturi intake manifold check valve pipe line arrived today and I'm attempting to replace it, however, every tutorial and video makes it seem very simple to disconnect the connection that goes to the bottom of the Y-pipe that connects to the throttle body. I've pressed both tabs in and pulled on it and it will not disconnect. From pics and videos out on the web the connector goes to a male nipple coming out from the Y-Pipe. I've tried pressing the tabs while pulling the y pipe, and this thing will not come off. From my recent experience at breaking things whin I'm attempting to fix something I figured I'll ask the community if there's a trick to disconnecting this pipe before I end up costing myself more money for a simply DIY.

I've taken the intake manifold off multiple times and pretty much disconnected everything and pushed the Y-pipe aside so I never had to disconnect it until now. Also, one line from the piping I'm replacing goes to the Barke Booster (clamp going to rubber hose), and the other connects to the back of the intake manifold. Again I never had to disconnect this connection at the back of the intake manifold as I simply angled the manifold out the way when I was performing my starter swap out. This is the very reason why this pipe broke and I had to order another one. . Is the one at the back of the manifold the same type of connector as the one at the Y-pipe? I'd rather not have to disassemble the intake manifiold to disconnect it from the intake manifold. Is this possible?

Thanks!


Update:

I managed to get it loose by prying it off with a flathead screwdriver since it wasn't budging. I've unclamped and disconnected the hose going to the Brake Bosster, and now I'm left with the infamous intake manifold connection. Since I couldn't recall what type of connector that connects to the intake manifold I ended angling my phone at the back of the manifold and taking a pic. From my pic it appears this connector doesn't have a the 2 connectors to press and release. Is this a simple pull up with force and it comes off type of connector because looking at the new one it has the 2 tabs that are push in and pull to disconnect? See pic.

 

Is that the one where you have to kind of slide an outer collar away from the piece you're trying to remove it from and then pull the hose off?

 

Based on every tutorial I’d watched, yes, theoretically you should press both tabs in while pulling and they should disconnect. In my case...it was a No Go! As a matter of fact it was less complicated than the correct procedure of disconnecting the front connector. All I did was took a flat head screwdriver and pried the edge of the screwdriver in between the connector and the nipple. A simple push and it slid right off. No pressing tabs, pulling and tugging was involved.

As far as the connector located at the rear of the intake manifold, I wasn’t sure if it would be the same case. My goal was to be extra careful and not muck something up this go around, therefore, I ended up taking the intake manifold off just enough to clearly expose that connector. When I had a straight line of sight, I simply pulled up on it and it came off effortlessly. I found it odd that it didn’t have the 2 tabs such as the front connector and the new one I was installing.

The Venturi tube install was completed without a hitch!

thanks

 

Push the two buttons, as you slowly twist away downwards....

 

Ah! I was missing the twist sequence. They made these connections similar to a combination pad lock. Lol! Twist turn pull while facing NW at 145 nautical degrees.

Thanks for the tip Dilberto!

 

The push button collar pushes up against the seal allowing it to release its grip. My rear collar fell apart as I pushed the button in, the collar broke and fell off. It appears your push button release collar is gone in the rear as well. It should look like the other one under the Y pipe. So then, I used a trim panel removal tool with a wide "Y" shaped fork at the end. I slipped it under the seal and pushed up, and the fitting came off nice and easy. The flat Y pushes up on both sides of the seal evenly, no twisting required. I'd shy away from forceful twisting as this stuff is very rigid and brittle at this age. I posted an image of the panel removal tools I used in the "Coolant Pipes A-Z" thread on the last page. And a shot of non-silicone lubricant wouldn't hurt either.