New Bosch AGM Battery - Now, DVD maps won't read WTF
07-13-2019, 10:52 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
New Bosch AGM Battery - Now, DVD maps won't read WTF
Worked wonky, prior to battery replacement: Delayed zoom, missing or misaligned cursor, random blank map grid.
After new battery - the message is "Navigation: DVD Unreadable." When hitting the MAP button on PCM 2.1 it hangs-up on, "Starting Navigation." Not even past the first bar loading. Date now missing, on main radio screen....
Ideas, or solutions?
After new battery - the message is "Navigation: DVD Unreadable." When hitting the MAP button on PCM 2.1 it hangs-up on, "Starting Navigation." Not even past the first bar loading. Date now missing, on main radio screen....
Ideas, or solutions?
07-14-2019, 09:02 AM
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sounds like your nav was failing before and finished doing so. Your phone with Waze or Google maps is better anyway, but I understand you wanting things to work as they should.
You might try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery one time to see if it initializes correctly this time. Otherwise, I think you're SOL.
I also assume you fully charged the battery on a bench before installation. If not, do that before reconnecting it.
You might try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery one time to see if it initializes correctly this time. Otherwise, I think you're SOL.
I also assume you fully charged the battery on a bench before installation. If not, do that before reconnecting it.
07-14-2019, 03:41 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Sorry to hear of the problem. I agree with Petza that you probably had a marginal component to start with, and the inrush current you got when connecting the new battery pushed it over the edge.
No idea on a solution for you right now. But to understand a little more about what the problem may have been, and how it may be avoided ...
The problem can be seen by the spark when you first connect the new battery. New / old battery has the same issue, it's a matter of the voltage in the battery at the time, not the age. A higher voltage will produce a bigger spark, which is a bigger problem as that charge rapidly infiltrates your circuits, filling all the capacitors as voltage equalizes between the car's electrical system and the battery.
So sparks are bad for your circuits.
They are also - in a completely different way - bad when charging a dead battery since there is a concern of igniting H2 gas which is a by-product of lead-acid batteries, especially damaged / failing ones such as the dead battery being jumpered. Much of the stuff you read about dealing with batteries or jump starts is first concerned about not hooking things up backwards, then about not welding your wrench between your positive cable and car body, then about connecting things in order to mean that when the inevitable spark occurs when the final connection is made, it is in the least dangerous place possible (e.g., in a jump starting scenario between two cars, the safest place would be on the good car, connecting the negative jumper cable to the grounded body or a jump port away from the actual battery).
It tends to be accepted that avoiding that spark when connecting your negative battery terminal to your battery is unavoidable, and you should just hope things are OK when it happens. But it does not always work that way. From reading cases, problems are rare but seem to occur when previously marginal components are involved, or when a battery has been disconnected for a relatively long period, allowing the car's circuits to reach a low rest state.
If you want to minimize a spark, you can try temporarily attaching a resistor (e.g., 100 Ohms, 1 Watt or more) between the negative terminal and the negative battery post when starting to make the final connection. Of course all systems on the car should be shut down, key out, etc. as well. The resistance will dissipate energy and limit the inrush current. Once the equalization has taken place, the voltages between the negative terminal and negative post will be almost the same, different only based on constant current flow needed to power things that need power (clock, etc.). You can then directly connect the terminal to the post, and the voltage difference while doing that will not be enough to allow a spark. Then you can remove the temporary resistor.
This is a general problem when connecting batteries, and it is much more of an issue in other domains, such as boating, where collected gas vapors inside the boat can combine with a spark to ruin your day. Also, higher voltage devices such as electric motorcycles or drones.
Here is an interesting solution to this problem in one of those domains. It is the exact procedure described above, conveniently packaged directly into the connector:
In that case, the parallel resistor is build into the connector. So when you plug it in, partial insertion means contact is first made with the resistor (about 6 Ohms in that case, or 7 Ohms as indicated on that Harbor Freight free multimeter), and then upon full insertion, the connection is direct. The initial resistance is high enough to prevent a spark and significant inrush current while voltage equalizes betwen the battery and the circuit.
That special connector is for applications where connecting and disconnecting the high voltage battery is done regularly. I think the dangers and concerns are still here with 12V car batteries, but due to the lower voltage and much less frequent connecting, it seems to be a chance people consider acceptable.
Not really sure why I wrote that mini-dissertation. I just find this stuff interesting. I promise that's not part of my high school physics homework.
No idea on a solution for you right now. But to understand a little more about what the problem may have been, and how it may be avoided ...
The problem can be seen by the spark when you first connect the new battery. New / old battery has the same issue, it's a matter of the voltage in the battery at the time, not the age. A higher voltage will produce a bigger spark, which is a bigger problem as that charge rapidly infiltrates your circuits, filling all the capacitors as voltage equalizes between the car's electrical system and the battery.
So sparks are bad for your circuits.
They are also - in a completely different way - bad when charging a dead battery since there is a concern of igniting H2 gas which is a by-product of lead-acid batteries, especially damaged / failing ones such as the dead battery being jumpered. Much of the stuff you read about dealing with batteries or jump starts is first concerned about not hooking things up backwards, then about not welding your wrench between your positive cable and car body, then about connecting things in order to mean that when the inevitable spark occurs when the final connection is made, it is in the least dangerous place possible (e.g., in a jump starting scenario between two cars, the safest place would be on the good car, connecting the negative jumper cable to the grounded body or a jump port away from the actual battery).
It tends to be accepted that avoiding that spark when connecting your negative battery terminal to your battery is unavoidable, and you should just hope things are OK when it happens. But it does not always work that way. From reading cases, problems are rare but seem to occur when previously marginal components are involved, or when a battery has been disconnected for a relatively long period, allowing the car's circuits to reach a low rest state.
If you want to minimize a spark, you can try temporarily attaching a resistor (e.g., 100 Ohms, 1 Watt or more) between the negative terminal and the negative battery post when starting to make the final connection. Of course all systems on the car should be shut down, key out, etc. as well. The resistance will dissipate energy and limit the inrush current. Once the equalization has taken place, the voltages between the negative terminal and negative post will be almost the same, different only based on constant current flow needed to power things that need power (clock, etc.). You can then directly connect the terminal to the post, and the voltage difference while doing that will not be enough to allow a spark. Then you can remove the temporary resistor.
This is a general problem when connecting batteries, and it is much more of an issue in other domains, such as boating, where collected gas vapors inside the boat can combine with a spark to ruin your day. Also, higher voltage devices such as electric motorcycles or drones.
Here is an interesting solution to this problem in one of those domains. It is the exact procedure described above, conveniently packaged directly into the connector:
In that case, the parallel resistor is build into the connector. So when you plug it in, partial insertion means contact is first made with the resistor (about 6 Ohms in that case, or 7 Ohms as indicated on that Harbor Freight free multimeter), and then upon full insertion, the connection is direct. The initial resistance is high enough to prevent a spark and significant inrush current while voltage equalizes betwen the battery and the circuit.
That special connector is for applications where connecting and disconnecting the high voltage battery is done regularly. I think the dangers and concerns are still here with 12V car batteries, but due to the lower voltage and much less frequent connecting, it seems to be a chance people consider acceptable.
Not really sure why I wrote that mini-dissertation. I just find this stuff interesting. I promise that's not part of my high school physics homework.
07-15-2019, 01:34 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
The new battery swap apparently "reset" the DVD drive. Now, it first needs to read coding off the OEM maps disc.... which I no longer have. Ugh, I had to buy another eBay Harman-Becker disc. Good thing they went way down in price...
07-15-2019, 07:50 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Exact same thing happened with mine. Replaced the battery with a new Interstate AGM two weeks ago and now no nav or clock. I also get the same "Starting Navigation" message. I hit the eject button on the unit under the seat and nothing happened so I guess I don't have the disc either. I don't use navigation but I like everything to work. Wanna go in halves on a disc? 
07-15-2019, 10:48 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Exact same thing happened with mine. Replaced the battery with a new Interstate AGM two weeks ago and now no nav or clock. I also get the same "Starting Navigation" message. I hit the eject button on the unit under the seat and nothing happened so I guess I don't have the disc either. I don't use navigation but I like everything to work. Wanna go in halves on a disc?
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07-15-2019, 11:11 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Exact same thing happened with mine. Replaced the battery with a new Interstate AGM two weeks ago and now no nav or clock. I also get the same "Starting Navigation" message. I hit the eject button on the unit under the seat and nothing happened so I guess I don't have the disc either. I don't use navigation but I like everything to work. Wanna go in halves on a disc?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Porsche-...ss!92260!US!-1
07-17-2019, 04:52 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
It's been sorted out. DVD drive was reset after the battery swap, seeking the original, 2006 maps disc. My 2015 maps update was unrecognizable.... until the OEM Harman-Becker DVD disc was initially re-loaded. Morale of the story?
Keep your original maps disc..... ALWAYS!!!
Keep your original maps disc..... ALWAYS!!!
07-17-2019, 09:05 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Here is a link for a late, 2005 DVD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Porsche-...ss!92260!US!-1
07-19-2019, 07:45 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Well I guess the cost of a disc is moot because it's working again.
I went in to confirm what version of PCM I have before forking out money for a disk. I went through the various menus and when I exited, it was working again. Clock works but no date.
I went in to confirm what version of PCM I have before forking out money for a disk. I went through the various menus and when I exited, it was working again. Clock works but no date.