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My audio is still cutting out after a few min, I think the MOST box they sent me is the culprit. I'm going to wire my ipod into the most box and see if it still cuts out. Once it cuts out the audio will only come back with a restart of the car or after unplugging and re-plugging in the MOST box. But I can't remember if I also had to reboot the car (to get the android head unit to reboot, or possibly the can-bus). will do more testing.
I am on my second MOST box with the Seicane unit. It was noise free for over a year, but has increasingly been suffering from louder and louder alternator whine. Just the last time I started the car there was both a low pitch hum and a high pitch whine that corresponds with engine rpm. The longer the car runs the quieter it seems to get. Did you experience this before yours started failing worse?
If do have a little alternator whine when audio is low. I have some RCA filters I can try.
my audio just quits approx 20 or so minutes into any drive.
That's strange...I have never had the audio cut out, but I mainly play files from a flash drive or the internal memory. I don't stream from my phone but when I have it connected for calls it doesn't disconnect. But it does sound like the CAN Bus could be what is powering down the MOST adaptor, if you need to shut the car down fully to make it restart. Do you power the MOST adaptor from the ACC line that goes to the CAN Bus box? Thanks for the GPS antenna info btw, was wondering which would be better.
Originally Posted by nodoors
I am on my second MOST box with the Seicane unit. It was noise free for over a year, but has increasingly been suffering from louder and louder alternator whine. Just the last time I started the car there was both a low pitch hum and a high pitch whine that corresponds with engine rpm. The longer the car runs the quieter it seems to get. Did you experience this before yours started failing worse?
Strange, and probably unrelated to anything, but I did get alternator whine through the speakers at one point. It started about a week before my fuel pump died...replaced the pump and didn’t hear it again. The pump doesn't change speed with RPM, so I figured it wasn't directly related, but it was odd and suggests maybe other electric weirdness can cause the system to pick up alternator hum or not to.
The audio cuts out on mine on all sources, bluetooth, radio, streaming, downloaded, WAZE, google maps, nothing...
So I did a test today, I connected my phone to the MOST box RCA jacks using a Phono-RCA cable, and listened to music that way on the drive. So the head unit was not connected to the MOST box, except for the following:
MOST ground splices into Original head unit harness ground wire.
MOST ACC wire connects to blue AMPCON wire on Android head unit speaker output harness.
MOST BATT 12V wire splices to original head unit power harness power wire.
The audio did not cut out!
So it isn't the MOST box, it sounds like it may still be the wiring coming out of the Android head unit to the MOST BOX. Or I suppose it could be the CAN-BUS decoder getting confused and sending a mute signal to the amp or something...
So I'm not sure, but the main difference is I get the ACC for the MOST unit from the wire that goes from the radio connector to the CAN BUS box (yellow I think, can't remember the exact location). The thing that is important (again, I think) is that the MOST box gets power before anything else. If you are running it off the AMPCOM wire, it will not power up right away, or at least at the same time as your CAN bus box. When mine starts up there is a brief delay before you hear the amp turn on, but the CAN bus stays on and in general runs when other things are off. Maybe the MOST box needs to be in sync with the CAN box so that everything works(?).
I do wonder if wiring that ACC wire to the AMP-CON wires is the problem, though today I did notice that the music from my phone, directly into the MOST box, kept playing after I turned off the car and removed the key... The Android powered down... And the music through the MOST box to the rear amp was still playing... So that seems to say that the MOST box is never powering down, and it is the resetting of the head unit or the CAN-BUS Decoder that is allowing the audio to work again the next time.
What did folks do with the green pig-tail wire that comes off the antenna lead (#26 in the picture below)? I need to confirm, but I think I foolishly connected 17 to 26 (both say "antenna", right?), when I should have connected 17 to 8 (antenna to antenna / blue to blue). That would explain why I've got weak radio reception..... But what do you do with the green wire on 26? Is that connected to anything?
Ok re-tested it. Removing the key, the Android powers off after 5s. The music from my phone direct to the MOST box stops 5s later. So I was mistaken there. The audio did cut out again when connected only to the MOST box. And I could get it back by removing the key for 10s.
I have not had a problem with the stereo powering on and playing music (from whatever source was last selected) pretty much right away. So I don't know that it's a problem with the MOST not powering on soon enough. But I think i will re-wore mine ot match yours. Maybe mine is getting confused and powering down the MOST for some reason (a can-bus error due to the can-decoder?) .
BTW, the steering wheel keys did work when the head-unit was plugged into the most box, but now that my phone is directly plugged into the MOST box, the steering controls don't work (no volume or mute). However the temperature display on the head-unit is now correct.
Yeah, it does sound like the can bus is doing something to shut things down. The first one they sent me had issues, different, but who knows if it is related. The can bus keep awake function when the engine is off but the key is still in was not designed well. It would keep the HU playing and the amp on for ever, but there was a relay you could hear clicking in the dash which I wasn't keen on. Did you get yours from Atop on Aliexpress? Just write to them, they sent me a new one which worked way better, and they had an engineering guy I sent error messages from VCDS to who figured it out what was up. Maybe they changed things and made a new problem with yours. This is the first one I got which was not so good.
PM me if you want any more details about my order - they probably remember me...they sent me new firmware for the HU too, but I haven't installed it yet as mine works OK as is.
#1 - From time to time no sound comes from speakers despite the headunit playing. Seems it's a bug in the unit (as oppose to wiring etc) as the work around is to activate Google Now. The little beep that comes from Google Now as it's listening for a command seems to trigger the audio picking back up. After that music starts playing fine.
I can't get any output after this happens unless I power cycle the car for 5s, or reboot the Android into recovery mode...
And then Avec also said this, which is what you were saying "The MOST module needs to be wired up - power all the time, power on key and ground. I found the easiest place to wire this in was to the same wires on the harness between the CanBus module and the head unit. Red to Red, Yellow to Yellow and Black to Black. Snip, strip, solder and shrink wrap and all ready to go." https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...l#post14364760
I did re-wire mine last night, I removed the connection between the ACC on the MOST box from the AMP-CON wire on the head unit, and then connected it to the yellow wire on the CAN-BUS decoder. The MOST box would not power on at all like this! I looked for switched power on both fuse boxes, and didn't find any yet (I didn't remove many fuses, but was trying the empty sockets). There was 12V on the yellow wire of the CAN-BUS decoder, but it did not switch off with removal of the key.
So what's strange is that it won't power up at all connected to the can-bus power lines. So how was it wired before? I always take main power (yellow) off the line from the car connector to the HU. For ACC (red) I took this from the bundle going to the can-bus, but I see above I said I thought it was yellow not red. I am wondering now if that is actually what I did, because I should have been taking it from the red wire in the bundle to the can-bus (like you re-wired to), not the yellow. Maybe I have constant power all the time to the MOST box (so no ACC at all), and ironically that is why it works. Also why the you found the yellow wire didn't switch off. But I wouldn't have attached different color wires - what I need to do is pull the HU out and look at it. I am in the middle of replacing my coolant T's which has us shut down right now (and it is our DD…), but I will take a look as soon as I get a chance. Maybe write to atop, they were really helpful for me.
Btw, I did this because I couldn't find any ACC lines in the fuse box, even though many people say they are there.
Btw, I did this because I couldn't find any ACC lines in the fuse box, even though many people say they are there.
I asked someone which fuse they used for ACC. Their reply was
"Used the Towing attachment fuse in the passenger side fusebox. Used fuse spot 41. Had the glovebox out so wires ran between glovebox and heaterbox assembly (where the OEM harness runs already)."
I found some ACC fuse locations (used & unused) on the bottom 2 row of the passenger side fuse box.
I fed the MOST box with dedicated feeds to avoid any issues, not sure it was required, but it works.
You can use these in an existing fused location or an unused location.
The unused locations have only one contact, so make sure the adapter is inserted correctly, and you only need one fuse.
If you use a fused location, you use two fuses, and the adapter needs to be installed correctly to ensure that the power is split thru both fuses.
The correct orientation for the adapter is the wire points upward, but check with a meter to be sure.
In the picture...
Top is 12v power to MOST
Middle is ACC power for new Amplifier I added to regain rear speakers.
Bottom is ACC power to MOST
These were all unused locations.
I asked someone which fuse they used for ACC. Their reply was
"Used the Towing attachment fuse in the passenger side fusebox. Used fuse spot 41. Had the glovebox out so wires ran between glovebox and heaterbox assembly (where the OEM harness runs already)."
Originally Posted by AJ88CAB
I found some ACC fuse locations (used & unused) on the bottom 2 row of the passenger side fuse box.
I fed the MOST box with dedicated feeds to avoid any issues, not sure it was required, but it works.
You can use these in an existing fused location or an unused location.
The unused locations have only one contact, so make sure the adapter is inserted correctly, and you only need one fuse.
If you use a fused location, you use two fuses, and the adapter needs to be installed correctly to ensure that the power is split thru both fuses.
The correct orientation for the adapter is the wire points upward, but check with a meter to be sure.
In the picture...
Top is 12v power to MOST
Middle is ACC power for new Amplifier I added to regain rear speakers.
Bottom is ACC power to MOST
These were all unused locations.
I will try to find a switched connection , thanks for the pointers. I had tried several fuse locations mentioned on the internet, but they must have been for a 957 or 958, cause those fuses were not switched on my 2004 955 CTT.
I did contact Atop on Alibaba, and they would like me to send a video of th eaudio cutting out. So I took a video of the audio working this morning... but then the audio never cut out on the drive to work! First time on a drive over 20min that it hasn't cut out.
01-07-2019, 03:32 PM
