Bad Day at Blackrock! CTT leaks, a LOT
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Bad Day at Blackrock! CTT leaks, a LOT
Hey all -
Need some remote diagnostics here -
Turned the 2005 CTT off after a spirited drive, but also after letting it settle down at idle to let the turbos spin down, maybe a couple of minutes. Went back out and saw steam and fluid(s) coming from under the hood - popped the hood and could hear coolant heating up and then burbling out on the ground.....I figured the plastic T's had let loose. Steam and fluid appeared to be coming out of the back of the engine, drivers side. I've had the coolant overflow tank replaced already. We think the coolant pipes have been done - I traced the work back to the original dealer who pulled the part numbers and indicated they were alum.
Here's the odd(er) part - after 2 days, the coolant has not dried up from the asphalt driveway, looking every bit like a massive oil discharge. Some of the residual fluid is slippery to the touch.....wtf??
Assuming that there is more to the problem than 'just' the coolant T's, what else catastrophic thing could have happened???
I'm so scared! :-[
Any thoughts?
I should mention that this was the rescue mission to pick me up after breaking the timing belt in the Toyota Landcruiser 'bulletproof' daily driver. I figured the LC would take some pressure off the CTT for routine errands, etc, and be much more reliable. It was a good plan, but apparently not a great plan! :-/
Tom
Napa
Dos Lagos Vineyards
Need some remote diagnostics here -
Turned the 2005 CTT off after a spirited drive, but also after letting it settle down at idle to let the turbos spin down, maybe a couple of minutes. Went back out and saw steam and fluid(s) coming from under the hood - popped the hood and could hear coolant heating up and then burbling out on the ground.....I figured the plastic T's had let loose. Steam and fluid appeared to be coming out of the back of the engine, drivers side. I've had the coolant overflow tank replaced already. We think the coolant pipes have been done - I traced the work back to the original dealer who pulled the part numbers and indicated they were alum.
Here's the odd(er) part - after 2 days, the coolant has not dried up from the asphalt driveway, looking every bit like a massive oil discharge. Some of the residual fluid is slippery to the touch.....wtf??
Assuming that there is more to the problem than 'just' the coolant T's, what else catastrophic thing could have happened???
I'm so scared! :-[
Any thoughts?
I should mention that this was the rescue mission to pick me up after breaking the timing belt in the Toyota Landcruiser 'bulletproof' daily driver. I figured the LC would take some pressure off the CTT for routine errands, etc, and be much more reliable. It was a good plan, but apparently not a great plan! :-/
Tom
Napa
Dos Lagos Vineyards
Last edited by tadink; 08-07-2018 at 06:18 PM. Reason: update
#2
Drifting
It's the glued in fitting in the crossover, can almost guarantee it. Pull the intake, high pressure fuel pump and glue it back in with Loctite 620. Or have a threaded version made and try to screw it back in
#4
Here are some links to get you fully informed on the situation:
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...placement.html
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Cooling-S...rts_Order.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...l#post12865984
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Gents -
have now confirmed it is the Coolant T's - I have ordered and rec'd the alum replacements....
Question: What else should we do while the manifold cover is off? Is there a way to check if the starter has been bathed in coolant?
Question2: how long should it take to remove / replace the manifold cover?
here's a pic!
cheers
td
Napa
have now confirmed it is the Coolant T's - I have ordered and rec'd the alum replacements....
Question: What else should we do while the manifold cover is off? Is there a way to check if the starter has been bathed in coolant?
Question2: how long should it take to remove / replace the manifold cover?
here's a pic!
cheers
td
Napa
#7
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
Posts: 10,085
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Gents -
have now confirmed it is the Coolant T's - I have ordered and rec'd the alum replacements....
Question: What else should we do while the manifold cover is off? Is there a way to check if the starter has been bathed in coolant?
Question2: how long should it take to remove / replace the manifold cover?
here's a pic!
cheers
td
Napa
have now confirmed it is the Coolant T's - I have ordered and rec'd the alum replacements....
Question: What else should we do while the manifold cover is off? Is there a way to check if the starter has been bathed in coolant?
Question2: how long should it take to remove / replace the manifold cover?
here's a pic!
cheers
td
Napa
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#8
1a. I would at a minimum do the thermostat and every gasket you see or touch. The starter will not get bathed if the tees broke, but it is not a bad idea to replace while you are in there if you value your time and enjoy wrenching projects, but not wasting time doing the same thing over and over.
1b. As far as man hours it will take. It depends if you do the starter, which coolant pipe set is installed, and how good you are at 3d tetris. It is about a 10-12 beer project... time conversion of that unit is up to you.
1b. As far as man hours it will take. It depends if you do the starter, which coolant pipe set is installed, and how good you are at 3d tetris. It is about a 10-12 beer project... time conversion of that unit is up to you.
#9
Drifting
Replace the little plastic T just behind the manifold. I think it is about 1/4 ". Here is a thread with a pic.
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...idding-me.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...idding-me.html
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks guys -
yes, we are going to do the T-stat, Starter and the little T junction (that had been cleverly epoxied by a previous 'fixer' - LOL). The plastic coolant T had one arm come off - great bit of engineering there Porsche!
With 104k on the rig, the starter seems a likely 'right thing to do' effort.
on the bright side - I can finally CONFIRM that I have alum coolant lines!! Someone already did that in the dim and distant past for this CTT! yay!
Should be back on the road soon (awaiting the next thing to happen)!!
We should start a lottery - if we all dump some money into the pot the next poor sod who has a catastrophic and easily avoided failure due to Porsche accountants saving $1.00 off the cost of a $125k retail vehicle can be covered!! sigh.
Happy motoring!
td
yes, we are going to do the T-stat, Starter and the little T junction (that had been cleverly epoxied by a previous 'fixer' - LOL). The plastic coolant T had one arm come off - great bit of engineering there Porsche!
With 104k on the rig, the starter seems a likely 'right thing to do' effort.
on the bright side - I can finally CONFIRM that I have alum coolant lines!! Someone already did that in the dim and distant past for this CTT! yay!
Should be back on the road soon (awaiting the next thing to happen)!!
We should start a lottery - if we all dump some money into the pot the next poor sod who has a catastrophic and easily avoided failure due to Porsche accountants saving $1.00 off the cost of a $125k retail vehicle can be covered!! sigh.
Happy motoring!
td
#12
Banned
I just had Steven's Creek do this same exact fix for me, but didn't let it get so far as having the swimming pool of stuff coming out (my wife would have had a heart attack). Total bill was a tad over $3K, with the vast majority of it being labor. I will see if I can find the list so you can do everything they did (less the starter if you decide to go that route).
The original T's blew out at 92K miles on mine, and were just replaced at 187K or so. Almost like clockwork.
The original T's blew out at 92K miles on mine, and were just replaced at 187K or so. Almost like clockwork.
#14
Banned
Yeah - but since it was done at the dealer I don't think I had an option besides OEM?
Also in reality, the truck probably won't make it past this set of coolant T's anyway (270K?!), so why introduce a new, aftermarket part now?
Also in reality, the truck probably won't make it past this set of coolant T's anyway (270K?!), so why introduce a new, aftermarket part now?