ProgRockJunkie

Weird leak, none of it is getting on the engine and burning. It seems to be spraying onto the inside of the hood right where the weather stripping touches and running in a bead down the weather stripping. Dropping her off today with my indy to diagnose. Anyone seen anything quite like this? Prognosis?

Edit: computer giving me trouble browsing my phone. Will reboot and add pictures in a couple minutes.

reachme

take off that plastic trim, can't see anything.
Any oil on the belt?

nice color BTW

Dilberto

That looks like the cam sensor seal leaking. Oil pressure can reach up to 48psi, at full load. Good thing the 0-ring is part of the valve cover gasket set.

ProgRockJunkie

Mechanic had a quick look Friday, somehow it's coming from down lower. Now sure how it's not all over the engine compartment. He's going to have to put it on a lift and pull the wheel well Monday.

BamaScoot

It is possible that you have so much oil in your drivers side intercooler hose (from vapor buildup) that it is leaking from that joint and then getting sprayed around the engine bay. Empty that hose while you're messing with it.

vandal968

And replace the seal if it hasn't been replaced in a while. Only like $5.

c

ProgRockJunkie

And the answer is...Timing Chain Cover! Ding ding ding, tell him what he's won!

So While I'm In There.... Water pump, thermostat, and what else?

Someone got a link to the easiest catch can assembly again?

ProgRockJunkie

Absolutely interested in opinions, anything else to do while in there. Box on the way from autohauzAZ with water pump, thermostat, valve cover and timing cover gaskets, front crank seal. Timing cover bolts are directly from Porsche. What else?

Dilberto

You're good!

PartsGuyGT

You'll also need intake manifold gaskets for when you do the thermostat since the housing sits under the manifold.

Cheers

Julian

J'sWorld

When doing the timing cover you have to do the crank seal and its like a 250$ item. You might as well do guides and guide pins while you are in there.

J'sWorld

Dont forget that you need to remove the balancer and use a new bolt. Its like 250 ft lbs or something and another 90°. So, its ultra tight. You need some way to hold tge crank pulley while removing and installing. I had to make a huge tool with like a 5' bar to hold it. Its no joke. The easiest way to do all this is remove the front bumper, and tge core support, radiator, etc. If you do that you need to get the ac evacuated first and recharge when yoir done.

See how the onion peels?
This exactly why people on a 10k$ vehicle budget that dont have enough mechanic experience have no buisness owning these machines. And a massive reason why depreciation is so high.

ProgRockJunkie

Thanks for that.

I already have the crank seal, yes about $250. Dumb question, what guides and pins?
Well ****. Guess we'll see how bad this onion is. I don't want to go with anything newer. Hell, in the state of VA property tax alone is a hell of a disincentive. But most of all I love the truck. But sounds like it's going to be a hell of a bill for an oil leak.

vandal968

Or you can just let it leak. My 968 has had a small leak since 2003. Lets the contaminants out which keeps the oil cleaner. Also, free rust-proofing.

cheers,
c

ProgRockJunkie

Lol, like the rust proofing. I was lucky to catch it when I did. Just my normal top off ever 800 miles, saw the bead of oil for the first time but it must have just happened 'cause it's a gusher. Not my first rodeo on something like this. I had an '05 Ferrari 612 a few years ago that sprung a leak on the F1 actuator, $5 gasket took $2000 in labor to replace.