Replaced Alum coolant pipes leaking (from a plastic part?)? Arg...
#1
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Replaced Alum coolant pipes leaking (from a plastic part?)? Arg...
I got a low coolant error and took the CTT in to the dealer and was just told the following:
Coolant leak:
a. Coolant leaking from plastic coolant lines at back of engine.
b. Remove top of engine and replace plastic coolant lines.
c. Suggest to replace all plastic coolant lines at the back of the engine along with plastic vent line.
i. Estimate: 4500.00
This is the same dealer that did the conversion to alum pipes in the first place, and my thought it its kind of BS that they did all the original work, and now that "other" plastic pipes are leaking that they want another bite at the $5k apple.
Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking of just telling them they need to do it at a reasonable cost given they should have done a better job the first time...
Coolant leak:
a. Coolant leaking from plastic coolant lines at back of engine.
b. Remove top of engine and replace plastic coolant lines.
c. Suggest to replace all plastic coolant lines at the back of the engine along with plastic vent line.
i. Estimate: 4500.00
This is the same dealer that did the conversion to alum pipes in the first place, and my thought it its kind of BS that they did all the original work, and now that "other" plastic pipes are leaking that they want another bite at the $5k apple.
Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking of just telling them they need to do it at a reasonable cost given they should have done a better job the first time...
#2
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Location: Spring Lake, NJ, US of A
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As them to show you on a parts diagram which plastic parts they want to replace. If they did the main coolant lines there really is only the imfamous "T" on the turbos that is known to fail. That's more like a $100 part, and a few hours of labor to replace.
#3
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The only plastic coolant lines that require removal of the intake are the ones they already replaced with aluminum. They also mention replacing the plastic vent pipe under there which has connectors that get brittle, but it's likely they already replaced it when installing the aluminum pipes.
I'm guessing they either did not look up the vehicle records, or did not record the initial plastic to aluminum pipe replacement.
If you're getting a leak at the rear drivers side of the block. Its likely one of the two coolant Ts. But I also would't rule out an o-ring or rubber coupling leaking on the aluminum pipes.
I'm guessing they either did not look up the vehicle records, or did not record the initial plastic to aluminum pipe replacement.
If you're getting a leak at the rear drivers side of the block. Its likely one of the two coolant Ts. But I also would't rule out an o-ring or rubber coupling leaking on the aluminum pipes.
#4
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But it here's to hoping they only want to change the T...
Last edited by dhc905; 05-02-2018 at 10:10 PM.
#5
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The only plastic coolant lines that require removal of the intake are the ones they already replaced with aluminum. They also mention replacing the plastic vent pipe under there which has connectors that get brittle, but it's likely they already replaced it when installing the aluminum pipes.
I'm guessing they either did not look up the vehicle records, or did not record the initial plastic to aluminum pipe replacement.
If you're getting a leak at the rear drivers side of the block. Its likely one of the two coolant Ts. But I also would't rule out an o-ring or rubber coupling leaking on the aluminum pipes.
I'm guessing they either did not look up the vehicle records, or did not record the initial plastic to aluminum pipe replacement.
If you're getting a leak at the rear drivers side of the block. Its likely one of the two coolant Ts. But I also would't rule out an o-ring or rubber coupling leaking on the aluminum pipes.
#6
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Here's the bill that matches nearly identically Vino's dealer service for the coolant pipes (though he paid $1,500). I had confirmed that they were done before I bought the car, but kind of annoying if they either try to do the work again or didn't do it right the first time...
#7
Race Car
Originally Posted by dhc905
Here's the bill that matches nearly identically Vino's dealer service for the coolant pipes (though he paid $1,500). I had confirmed that they were done before I bought the car, but kind of annoying if they either try to do the work again or didn't do it right the first time...
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#8
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Wrote back to say I don't think the project they diagnosed was correct, and that they should investigate the t-junctions instead with some of the good info provided above. I originally thought the coolant expansion tank would have been the problem, but given this has been dealer serviced its whole life, I figure that's been changed once or twice already.
I'm also a bit flabbergasted that what they want to do now seems identical to what they did earlier, but at 2.25x the cost (1,900 originally to 4,500 now?). I'm trying hard to believe they aren't trying to pull a fast one, but it gets harder and harder the more I think about it.
I'm also a bit flabbergasted that what they want to do now seems identical to what they did earlier, but at 2.25x the cost (1,900 originally to 4,500 now?). I'm trying hard to believe they aren't trying to pull a fast one, but it gets harder and harder the more I think about it.
#10
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#11
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Update:
I'm still a bit confused trying to reconcile this vs. what 46&2 said above about the only plastic lines being the ones that would have already been changed, but noticed that the estimate went from $4,500 to $2,850, so a step in the right direction. Do you think it would make more sense to have them change the T-junctions first and re-test then? Is it possible that they see leaks coming from there, but running down the pipe, making it appear the pipe itself is leaking?
There are multiple coolant lines that run between the engine and the transmission.
The main lines on top of the engine, under the intake, were the ones that were replaced in February 2012.
The lines replaced in 2012 I cannot see, that is why I was asking if the updated pipes were replaced.
The coolant lines that we can see leaking are estimated at 2850.00
Once these lines are replaced we can re-test the cooling system and see if there is anything else leaking.
The main lines on top of the engine, under the intake, were the ones that were replaced in February 2012.
The lines replaced in 2012 I cannot see, that is why I was asking if the updated pipes were replaced.
The coolant lines that we can see leaking are estimated at 2850.00
Once these lines are replaced we can re-test the cooling system and see if there is anything else leaking.
#13
Nordschleife Master
There are multiple coolant lines that run between the engine and the transmission.
The main lines on top of the engine, under the intake, were the ones that were replaced in February 2012.
The lines replaced in 2012 I cannot see, that is why I was asking if the updated pipes were replaced.
The main lines on top of the engine, under the intake, were the ones that were replaced in February 2012.
The lines replaced in 2012 I cannot see, that is why I was asking if the updated pipes were replaced.
First off, I am unaware of any coolant lines running 'between the engine and transmission." I took a quick look at the PET and see nothing. (could be wrong on this - wouldn't be the first time)
Ask them to show you on the parts diagram (PET).
Second I find it difficult to believe that a competent, dealer trained tech can't see if the pipes are aluminum or plastic (although my cynicism about 'factory trained' techs makes this a bit more plausible).
This whole issue sounds like the 'coolant T' problem. Many folks replace them at the same time as the pipes.
Some have claimed the ability to get to the T from below and behind. I can't speak to that personally, I did mine when I did my pipes, from the top when the intake was off. And it was a huge pain.
#14
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Wisco Joe,
Sure is. I have my preferred dealer (Sonnen) but since moving it's just too far to take it there for service, which is a huge bummer as I would have gladly paid what they quoted me the first time (then again, it would probably be correct...).
After specifically calling out the coolant T's, the response was exactly what I quoted, about the "other lines." I tried finding the PET but couldn't find a good one, so I just asked him to give me a detailed estimate with the parts and labor for what he is imagining doing.
After all this, I'm going to have to crack into my limited supply of Spotted Cow!
Sure is. I have my preferred dealer (Sonnen) but since moving it's just too far to take it there for service, which is a huge bummer as I would have gladly paid what they quoted me the first time (then again, it would probably be correct...).
After specifically calling out the coolant T's, the response was exactly what I quoted, about the "other lines." I tried finding the PET but couldn't find a good one, so I just asked him to give me a detailed estimate with the parts and labor for what he is imagining doing.
After all this, I'm going to have to crack into my limited supply of Spotted Cow!
This is a Porsche dealer?
First off, I am unaware of any coolant lines running 'between the engine and transmission." I took a quick look at the PET and see nothing. (could be wrong on this - wouldn't be the first time)
Ask them to show you on the parts diagram (PET).
Second I find it difficult to believe that a competent, dealer trained tech can't see if the pipes are aluminum or plastic (although my cynicism about 'factory trained' techs makes this a bit more plausible).
This whole issue sounds like the 'coolant T' problem. Many folks replace them at the same time as the pipes.
Some have claimed the ability to get to the T from below and behind. I can't speak to that personally, I did mine when I did my pipes, from the top when the intake was off. And it was a huge pain.
First off, I am unaware of any coolant lines running 'between the engine and transmission." I took a quick look at the PET and see nothing. (could be wrong on this - wouldn't be the first time)
Ask them to show you on the parts diagram (PET).
Second I find it difficult to believe that a competent, dealer trained tech can't see if the pipes are aluminum or plastic (although my cynicism about 'factory trained' techs makes this a bit more plausible).
This whole issue sounds like the 'coolant T' problem. Many folks replace them at the same time as the pipes.
Some have claimed the ability to get to the T from below and behind. I can't speak to that personally, I did mine when I did my pipes, from the top when the intake was off. And it was a huge pain.