Go the dealer, son...

 

Is the green "headlight" on the key fob lighting when you press the button?

If not, the problem is in the key fob. Did you use a brand name battery like Energizer? A Chinese knock off may show 3.2 volts until a load is put on it and then drop to zero.

If you take it to the dealer, they'll sell you a new key fob and program it....I believe I've read around $600.00.
You can also buy the key fob yourself online for a fraction of the price and then pay the dealer about $100 to program it.
This also gets complicated because the fob must be brand new and never mated to another vehicle.
Do research on this before buying.

If the green headlight is working, try disconnecting the negative cable under the carpet cutout in front of the driver's seat. Kill the power to the car for a few minutes, hook back up and see if the remote works.
The car will need to relearn everything, so you will have things like some funky shift points for a few days.

I doubt your bluetooth install had anything to do with this, especially if your wife's remote works fine.

 

The white wire is the alarm system / vehicle security system. They key fobs are not working!

 

Now my wife key fob is not working. She is driving it today. She have to open it with her metal key and once opened the alarm would sound.

I believe the white wire is the security system ...

Will have to find another source for switched 12V in my Bluetooth install.

 

The green light in my fob does not light up. The green light in my wife's fob do light up, still.

 

Took about a few hours... The factory manual I have doesn't have any wiring diagram for the CD23.. it just has it for the Bose/PCM equipped models. But - assuming the wiring is basically the same:

The white wire you tapped into is a power feed FROM the radio to one of the antenna amplifiers. That likely is not a good spot to try to take off 12V. Current may be limited - so the antenna may not be working correctly - but that's not causing your problems as best I can see.

The "WAKE-UP/DIAGNOSIS" wire feeding power to the PCM/nav system is the white with red stripe wire. That would be a more likely place to obtain switched power from. That line likely comes alive when the vehicle recognizes a key is nearby, or when you unlock the doors. It likely remains alive for 15 minutes after you turn off the ignition and lock the doors. That's normal.

Looking at the alarm/door-lock circuit diagrams there are multiple antennas scattered around the vehicle for the alarm system. Ones in the rear bumper, one in each door, multiple ones inside the vehicle and they even list one oddly as "spare wheel loading space inside antenna" (that one - really seems odd..)

I doubt if it's an antenna.

I suspect it's the keys. If your key isn't lighting up - that means the light source in it is burned out or the key is kaput. If your wife's key IS lighting up and not being recognized by the vehicle - something is up with that. I'd try to see if the vehicle recognizes it by circling the vehicle and clicking buttons on it to see if there is any response. If not - could be a lot of things - and without the correct diagnostics tool, the complexity of the system keeps it from being DIY friendly to repair.

First step - remove any modifications you made to the car involving the electrical system. Start stock. See what happens.

Good luck..

 

BTW - you now have two threads involving the same thing. That's not a good thing. I will be combining the two threads into one. Please do not start yet a 3rd thread about the problem.

 

My apologies for multiple threads. Initially I thought I was king and did not messed up my key fobs BECAUSE of the Bluetooth mod but now I will keep the discussions here - if that's the best way forward.

Removed the mod completely.

My wife's key fob: back to normal operations. "headlight" on the key fob lights up. Locks, unlocks, starts, no siren going off, etc. Comfort settings set to her key fob - when detected?

My key fob: still nothing, no "headlight" on key fob, no response on both buttons, nada etc. When using the metal key to start the car - the display on the dash shows "Key - REPLACE BATTERY." Looks like it is somehow dead.

As with the mod - looking for switched power:
1. the Pink/Yellow (I am slightly color blind) or white with red strip wire is constantly on. That is pin A4 in the diagram. I have tested it with the CDR23 DISCONNECTED completely and it is constant 12V as I left my voltmeter attached and it shows it is 12V even after 15 minutes (albeit with the CDR23 disconnected).
2. the white wire that I was using had ZERO volts when the CDR23 was disconnected but comes alive matching the "glow ring" around the power switch at the front of the CDR23. If it is glowing, that pin have power. It is pin A5.
3. the brown wire is ground / negative terminal. It is pin A8.

Suspisions, questions, and opinions:

Given the above, it looks like I need another key fob either from the dealer or on eBay - then go to the dealer for programming. I guess I would only get a used fob if I am 100% on re-programming myself if any information is available here. In the meantime, I have to drive with the metal key - and the alarm going off before I start the engine.

Bluetooth mod: I have purchased a wiring harness to tap power from either the left or the right fuse box inside the front dash. For instance, I have identified fuse 48 on the left / driver side as being switched 12V but no fuse is current on #48, etc. However, it is difficult as it is impossible to run a wire from there to behind the radio ... ... if anyone have a suggestions on 1. how to route a wire; OR 2. finding switched 12V from behind the radio - that would be ideal; OR 3. Confirmation that the red/white (or pink/yellow) wire is indeed a switched 12V line.

The bluetooth unit from iSimple works somewhat - and at 98.1MHz for now which is default. Any other frequencies requires their phone app to change the frequency. However, I have been unable to change the frequency with the app. 98.1MHz works great with a softer volume though. No alternator noise, interference from radio stations, etc. I have to crank the volume up to 30 or higher in order to be able to hear any real FM noise when the car is running.

************
Note: Only pins A4, A5, and A8 have connection - other pins in socket A have no wiring. The following diagram may not be the CDR23

 

The harnesses need to be attached to the radio. Plug them in, attach one lead of your meter to brown and then probe each wire for 12 volts DC. There is a wake up wire going to an amp and/or CD changer that will mimic the head unit when it is active.
It shouldn't take but a minute or two to figure out. It might have been red/white or red/black...it's been two years and I can't remember.

Take the key fob apart and look for any obvious problems. Try a new battery and make sure the polarity is correct.
A USED key fob from eBay is 100% WORTHLESS. It must be a virgin fob that's never been mated to a car.
There are knock offs for about $30 bucks but you're still stuck with a dealer doing the programming. I've yet to hear of a lock smith that can do it.

 

I believe I see part of a yellow connector in one of your photos.
Didn't you probe any of those wires? What is attached to pin 4 on the yellow connector?
The diagram you posted is not a CDR23.

 

19psi ... I think I may have misunderstood you previously.

I did NOT probe pin 6 or any pins in socket C1 - this socket is yellow.

I did probe pin 4 in (pink+yellow wire) socket A - this socket is black. Highlighted with me drawn a green circle in the picture earlier.

I use pin 8 (brown wire) as ground in socket A (this socket is black).

Previously, what I said I did was (clarifying it here) was to probe pin 4 in socket A and found it to be constant 12V and unswitched.

Then I probe pin 5 (white wire) in socket A and it was indeed switched and follows that lighted ring around the power switch. If the lighted ring is off - pin 5 of socket A is also off. So I thought it was switched (other wiring diagrams says it is "antenna +12V) ...

Using the name socket C1 as the "yellow" socket for naming only here and using the pin out diagram - there are 6 pins in C1. Pins 1, 2, and 4 have wires in them. Will probe them as before.

So you can remember - after 2 years - that it was a yellow socket?

I have attached my "yellow" socket only in a picture.

 

You are making this way too complicated.
Use this or some other variation...

 

Hahahahahaha, I have that already. Fuse #48 - is switched - of the left fuse panel is original slate to do just that.

The problem is how to route that power to the bluetooth unit without removing any more of whatever is behind and around the CDR23.

If there is a way to route a wire without further disassembly, it would in fact be better. ;-)

 

I would take one off the right side panel - then drop the knee pad under the dash (1 screw) and route it through there, and reach behind the radio mounting and feed it to wherever your iSimple is located. The right side is easier since there is less crappola under the dash there.

 

The knee pad being the panel left of the left knee if I am sitting in the passenger's seat?