New to the forum...I'm sure there are multiple threads on replacing fobs, but my issue is a little different...
I recently bought a used 955, and it only came with one key and fob. I've been very cautious about keeping it safe, but about 10 days ago, we had a family picnic, and my brother shoved me into a pool without warning, and I still had the fob in my pocket. Needless to say, the electronics in it don't work anymore. The key of course is fine, and so is the transponder - I can drive the car without issue, but I can't externally lock or unlock it, open the tailgate unless it feels like unlocking itself when I turn off the car, or turn off the alarm if it goes off. And no, starting the car does not turn off the alarm. It's a decent drive to any of the closest dealerships, and the only one that has even returned my call wants $450 for a new fob. Is it really necessary to replace the entire thing when the transponder still works? Not familiar with the specific way the electronics interact with the fob.
Thanks!

 

It is required to replace the entire key, unfortunately, as it is one circuit board. Moreover, the key can be found cheaper online, but be weary of the Chinese knockoffs that use steel for the key blank vs brass. Dealers for sure, and even some locksmiths will refuse to cut steel as it ruins their blade pretty fast. Of course, if you only want one key you can just have your existing blade transferred.

Another note, all keys must be present and at the dealer to have the vehicle Kessy module programmed for the set of keys. It is a process that requires the PIWIS system and only dealers or very good indy's will have it. $450 is about par for a dealer price, maybe a bit high.

 

Ok ,thank you

 

1. You can use the key in the drivers door lock/outside handle key hole to activate and deactivate the alarm by turning it twice to the right to activate or once to the left to deactivate.

2. The key and transponder pill are not integrated into the remote circuit board. You can swap your existing key blade to a knock off or oem remote and have it programmed. There are some other diagnostic tools that can program remoted besides the PIWIS. I would check with your local locksmiths. I did some chinese remotes for a guy with my PIWIS and he also had a hard time finding someone to cut the steel blanks and then the dealer refused to program them which is how he ended up with me.

 

Thanks

 

Ok, so as I said, the remote got wet. Took the battery out, still was able to drive it for about a week until I had time to mess with it. I ordered a replacement remote case, on the off-chance that the electronics might just need to dry out for it to work. Put the remote in a bowl of rice to soak up the moisture. Didn't work, as soon as I put in the battery, the alarm would go off, acting like there was still moisture in the tiny microswitch for the panic button, making the alarm think I was holding down the button. Waited until the alarm stopped going off, started the car to make sure I could still drive without the battery in the remote. Started, drove just fine.
I then decided to open the remote, and dry it out more thoroughly, since I now had an empty remote case to put it in if I was successful. Spent about an hour and a half opening the case carefully, so I was certain not to damage the circuit board. Came out great. Left the remote guts sitting on top of a pile rice in a covered bowl again for 2 more days, to suck out the moisture...also used a heated stream of air to help it along. Put the circuit board in the new empty case, put it the old key, popped in a battery, and tried it out. Worked! Buttons locked/unocked the door, everything worked as it should. Yay!
Went inside, put a couple drops of crazy glue on the case to glue it together, and went to bed.
Went out to start it the next day...nothing. At all. Now the remote seems to be working, but the car doesn't know it. When I push a remote button, it lights up for like 1/4 or 1/3 of a second, like it did before it was wet. But the car completely ignores the remote. And now the alarm is activated - the little red LED on the door is blinking away, and no matter what I try, I can't deactivate the alarm. (the week I drove it with the old wet batteryless remote, the alarm was not activated, and the doors were not locked, so I didn't have to worry about setting off the alarm when opening the doors)
I've read here in the forum that the box in the car can "forget" to communicate with the remote, so I went with the two methods listed to turn off the alarm...
inserting the key, turning it to the left - didn't work...getting in and putting the key in the ignition, and turning to "run" or actually starting the car - didn't work.
Turning the key in the door does absolutely nothing except physically unlock the door lock, the alarm light keeps right on blinking, and if I open the door, the alarm instantly goes off. And if I get in at that point and put the key in, nothing happens at all, except the alarm still going off.
I've tried the variations of the key in the door thing...turn left, or turn right with the button pushed, or turn multiple times quickly...nothing yields and results at all. Ideas to get the alarm off, so I can at least get it someplace to get it serviced (or junked) it really makes me mad that I have a perfectly driveable car, but can't use it...and this is the only car I've got...

 

It has been a while since I had my remote apart. I do not remember if the transponder pill is integrated into the case or the board. I know on my 2002 a4 that the pill is part of the case. It is removable but I have never done that. You did keep the old case right? As long as that transponder pill is in distance of the electronics it should work. The immobilizer has been activated

 

On mine, it's all soldered/glued to the circuit board.
It's really aggravating...I could care less if it even had an alarm, let alone the immobilizer. I live in a nice rural area, with almost zero crime, so I had no reservations about leaving it unlocked that week I drove it with no battery in the remote. Actually, I almost never locked when it was all working properly.
Don't get me wrong, I knew what I was in for buying this vehicle, but as expensive as it is, it should be more user friendly for the owner. And really? $450 for a remote, and you can't design it with a simple little rubber gasket to make it waterproof or at least water resistant? <sigh> I just want to be able to drive the thing, ya know?

 

I know the key in the lock thing works because someone kindly smashed my remote in a fit of rage and I used just the key for everything until it broke down and I stopped driving it. It is hard to say over the internet but maybe disconnect the battery and touch the two leads together for 5 seconds to discharge the static in the system and reconnect the leads to the batt. See what happens. If you can get in and try to start it without the alarm going off let us know if it starts. If it trys to start and the immobilizer kicks in and shuts it down there will be a symbol on the dash of a car with a key thru it flashing yellow. If that is the case the put the key in and turn to on but not start and let it sit. It may take a while but the immobilizer may turn off and the icon will stop flashing to let you know it has. Then you can start it but do not remove or cycle the key first.

 

Try taking the old case with you and holding it in your hand with the new one while you try to unlock via the door and start.

 

I will try this tomorrow, too late to tick off the neighbors with the alarm going off for a long time.
Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.

 

So far, still no response. I see absolutely nothing in the old case that could be a transponder pill...I will try to enclose a pic of my circuit board, I was assuming the transponder was the long black thing on the direct opposite side of the board as the LED, on the thin part of the board. The white stuff on the board I think is just glue residue from when it was originally built.

 

Ok, I put the original key and circuit board back in the old remote case and took it out to the car. The buttons seemed to be physically working properly...the LED came on like it was supposed to, but still no response from the car. I opened the door, the alarm immediately went off. Got in, put the key in - hey! This time, the alarm shut off, and I was able to start it. Ran it for a few minutes, turned it off, got out. Tried the buttons, they were now working.
Went in the house, put the key and board back in the new remote case, went back to the car. Car was unresponsive to the buttons again. Opened the door, alarm went off, got in, put key in the ignition...alarm turned off! progress! Started the car, ran it a few minutes, turned it off, got out. Car now responding to buttons again...tried turning the key in the door...to the right, turned on the alarm; to the left did NOT turn off the alarm. Holding the key left or right raised and lowered the windows like it should. Not sure what to think...will go out in an hour or so and try again to see if it remembered the connection to the remote...

 

The white stuff may be chlorine residue from the dip in the pool. If so - it's doing you no good in the key. If it can be easily disassembled I'd scrub the board with some isopropyl alcohol on an old toothbrush. Don't soak it - just use enough to help remove whatever the white residue is.

That might help.

 

Alcohol didn't take any of the white stuff off of the board...