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About 20 minutes after the ignition coil and spark plug replacement I got a check engine light with error codes:
P0441 - vent line tank ventilation valve
and
P0155 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
Then the CEL went away ... ?
I tightened the spark plugs securely and the ignition coils snapped in place and the harnesses all snapped into place on the ignition coils as well.
Car runs great, is this unrelated or did I mess something up?
The roughness is gone and it's running great. The problem will surface when it comes time to pass state emissions. The CEL is an automatic fail and requesting a tailpipe test is not an option.
I'd do a Google search for the codes, you'll probably find a DIY for fixing them. The second sounds like a bad O2 sensor, which I think is an easy fix. I don't know about the first.
I'd do a Google search for the codes, you'll probably find a DIY for fixing them. The second sounds like a bad O2 sensor, which I think is an easy fix. I don't know about the first.
Correct, the roughness is gone, but then there was a CEL, the CEL went away and hasn't resurfaced.
Correct, the roughness is gone, but then there was a CEL, the CEL went away and hasn't resurfaced.
Something to remember is that, for transient issues, or (sometimes) issues that have been fixed, the CEL will reset itself if the problem is gone.
If the issue isn't there for 3 start/stop cycles (and this can vary), then the CEL will go out.
Note: This is a generalization. There are issues that won't "self-reset". The number of cycles to reset may vary from car (type) to car, or even be dependent on the fault that triggered the CEL.
Something to remember is that, for transient issues, or (sometimes) issues that have been fixed, the CEL will reset itself if the problem is gone.
If the issue isn't there for 3 start/stop cycles (and this can vary), then the CEL will go out.
Note: This is a generalization. There are issues that won't "self-reset". The number of cycles to reset may vary from car (type) to car, or even be dependent on the fault that triggered the CEL.
Regarding emissions CELs... some of the readiness check conditions I have seen on various vehicle systems are astoundingly ridiculous. There are specifics to speeds attained for certain time periods and ambient temperature and number and length of stop start cycles, etc. One of the most annoying things to do can be getting all the monitors to pass after you have fixed something and you just want to take the car in to get tested. A small evap leak repair comes to mind on my wife's car a few years back that took weeks of driving with expired tags before it finally had reset all the monitors so that it would pass.
Talk about a PITA.
If you have enough car collectors who go through this painful process on vehicles they start thinking the same way and despising the computer systems. This could be part of the reason why my pre '75 classics have shot up in price over the past 5 years. Old cars are cool and you don't have all the 'brown' tape just to be able to drive them periodically.
Correct, the roughness is gone, but then there was a CEL, the CEL went away and hasn't resurfaced. Mine's a V6 but I couldn't find any O2 DIYs on it, I can look at the car. and try to visually find the sensors.
There are four O2 sensors on the downpipes ahead of and behind the cats. These are are the same as the Touareg V6, so look for a DIY there.
Has anyone ever had the bearing go bad? As far as I can recall, it's always been the bearing support.
YES! My cardan shaft bearing croaked. The rubber was breaking down and I went to do the Jimi Fix. I noticed a lot of grease in the area and checked the bearing.
The bearing moved freely and quietly but had play in the fore/aft directions.
I did the Jimi Fix to get me by while I ordered a new bearing kit. After doing the fix, I had tremendous vibrations in the 45-55 MPH range. It felt just like a 928 Torque Tube bearing failure.
I bit the bullet and broke down the drive shaft and replaced only the bearing. The CV joints, by their design of limited articulation, are are pain in the A$$ to get back together.
ONE MANS EXPERIENCE. 2006 CAYENNE TURBO S with 68,800 PAMPERED MILES. Cardan Shaft started banging last night and the bearing was whining.
I'm in Tampa Florida and had 150 miles to go till I could get to the shop. Nursed it home and went looking for a solution this morning. I thought to call Colorado Drive Shaft and looked for a minute at the Vertex two piece device. I raised the Cayenne to its highest level and climbed underneath to confirm it was the shaft.
I called my go to shop in Tampa. VORTEX MOTORSPORTS 813.874.1911. I explained what I had found and Bob the shop manager said, "Situation Normal" and then he asked did I want to replace it today? They had 7 OEM GKN shafts in stock!
I dropped the car off at 11:00 and walked out the door at 13:00 with my little hot rod roaring like it was when new.
This comes down to how you value your time. I was charged $538.98 for an OEM GKN and 2 hours labor at $127.00 an hour. I have the rest of my day free and no busted knuckles or doing this in pieces. What once was difficult can now be very easy if you know who to call.
As I said, this is just one mans experience. Hopefully something I shared here will be of some use to you.
Here's the Culprit. It was the original shaft. Part 7L5 521 102; so I got 68,000 miles of Turbo S fun out of the original part. On the lift at VORTEX MOTORSPORT. 2 hours total to remove and replace with a new GKN
08-06-2017, 10:44 PM
