sugarwood

It seems a base Boxster is around $6k where an S is $12k.
I don't think 217hp vs 250hp is much of a big deal for my street driving.
Is the "S" model worth the premium?

I am aware of the IMS issue, and that it may be overhyped.
I am figuring it's $1500 to resolve.

What comes with the Sport package?
Deal breaker for a car without it ?

Is it worth paying more for a 2003+ ?
There seems to be a huge jump in price from $5k-$12k range for 97-02 and then it seems to jump to $20k for 2003+
What year range is the best bang for the buck?

What is a fair price for a Boxster S (2000-2002) with about 50k miles?

zedcat

I'd suggest test drive several cars to help decide base vs. S. I thought the base was fun but ended up with an S. IMS upgrade at an indy shop is typically more than 1500 since it usually makes sense incrementally to do the clutch and rms and check the flywheel while the trans is out. The 03+ got a new top which included a glass rear window. The power is bumped with variocam and new exhaust. Bumper covers changed and in the interior a proper glove box. I would guess the 15k range for an 00-02 S but condition is key. Based on my experience I'd also say have a big emergency/contingency fund. These are all 10+ year old cars and are costly to run (again my experience). You can offset some cost if you DIY some work. Just from memory my 04S bought with a good PPI and 58k miles has needed- water pump, coolant tank, cam seal oil leak, light switch, rear strut mounts, front bump stops, CV boots, new exhaust manifold/cats. Also routine fluid changes, plugs, S-belt. And the elective IMS upgrade with clutch/ rms. And tires, brakes. Good tires are expensive. Not trying to scare you off. These are fun cars to drive. But in my experience takes $ to keep them going.

sugarwood

Thanks, I've owned several older performance cars and always have a large emergency fund. I understand that in the first year, you can easily drop thousands to sort it out. Have you tallied what all that work on the 04S cost you? I am able to do basic DIY but can't remove an engine.

der Geist

zedcat is correct. IMS will vary depending on which one you go with. A basic one from Pelican is $200 and they go up to $800 just for parts. RMS is an issue with these cars as well. It usually makes sense to replace the clutch at the same time if it is getting questionable. The car is very easy to DIY, I did almost everything myself and I found it very easy to work on. The top with the glass window is worth moving to a newer year as well IMO. I think the resale on the base model is very low compared to the S models. The difference is power is worth getting the S.

zedcat

LOL, coming from the track hobby- rule #1: never add up the receipts.

I got the car just for fun with the intention of doing maintenance my self- fluids, brakes (easy diy) and for larger stuff paying a specialist shop. I also did some upgrades with other work- had the ROW M030 suspension (struts, springs, anti-roll bars) installed when doing the strut mounts, bump stops and CV boots. For the unplanned repairs stuff, I'd estimate probably 4 to 5K or so. A big recent job was the exhaust manifold/cats. That was a couple grand. I think it could have been less if I had shopped for used manifolds, but when the tech diagnosed the issue (had a CEL) I just had them do it so I could get the car back for a DE.

Macster

Only you can make the call base vs. S. $6K difference is by my recollection a bit more than the difference when the cars were new. IIRC a comparable S model cost about $5K more than the 2002 base I bought.

Can't help you with the sports package question.

Test drive both examples and make up your own mind.

The 2003 MY and newer has the attraction of the glass rear window vs. the plastic rear window in previous MY's.

I've replaced the rear window of my Boxster once (and more recently, the top).

If I were in the market for another Boxster (or Cayman) I'd consider a 2006 to 2008 example. Porsches get better, more sorted out, as the model matures.

2008 was the MY just before Porsche revised the model substantially and this included new engines. (I actually bought a new 2008 Cayman S which was heavily discounted (Porsche's business was bad then) which tipped the scales in favor of an S over a base. My thinking was the 2008 was the last year of the Cayman model as it had existed since it was introduced and was the most sorted. And the price was very attractive. $12K discount!)

"Fair" has nothing to do with car prices.

I am not current on market prices.

My standard advice is to visit the used car web sites like www.kbb.com or www.nada.com and plug in a candidate car's numbers and see what the wholesale/trade-in price is for the car. If the car is being sold by a dealer this is likely all the seller has in the car. If the car is being sold by a private seller this is pretty much what he can get for the car as a trade in.

It is a the wholesale/trade-in price where I would start my negotiating.

Be sure you give any car you are serious about a thorough road test/used car check out.

You can't keep things from wearing out as you add miles to the car but you want to avoid buying a car that has serious issues and non-serious ones you want to know about so you can adjust your offer accordingly.

For instance a car in need of brakes or tires or a clutch is not necessarily a bad car, one to be avoided, but you want to avoid paying excellent condition money for a car that needs $1000 or more to put into excellent condition.

In this same vein be sure you learn what *documented* services the car has had so you can figure out what's do so you can adjust your offer.

This lack of service is a problem of sorts with low miles cars. The owner because he doesn't drive the car much doesn't service it much.

There is oil/filter service, but also important is the 2 year brake/clutch fluid flush and bleed. The serpentine belt if not due on miles can be due on time. Don't forget the plugs which may be due on time if not miles. There is the engine air filter and the cabin air filter (which can develop an odor if left in service too long).

While not a factory scheduled service I like to every 4 years or so have the coolant drained and replaced. The corrosion fighting additives "wear out" and the stuff has additives to help prolong the life of the water pump seal.

I'm an advocate of an early tranny/diff fluid service too. IIRC the factory calls for this to be done at 90K miles. If I bought a "low miles" used Boxster say with 50K miles I'd budget to have this done.

Even if tires are not too old and are not worn out if they are worn unevenly side to side or across the tread face this is a sign the car needs an alignment.

Ok, now all you have to do is go find one you like.

Happy Porsche shopping!

sugarwood

It's good to hear that the Boxster is DIY capable.

2005-06 models jump up to the $20k mark. I think that is more than I am looking to spend right now, esp. when 100k mile first gen cars can be had for $6k. That might be a better value for me.

Schnell Gelb

It isn't the buy-in price that matters. It is the 'stay-in' cost,
Do the PPI with a competent Indie and have a big repair fund.And hope you don't need it.

sugarwood

Are 986 ('97-'04) Boxster prices still dropping, or have the flattened over the last few years, or are they appreciating?

zedcat

Excellence magazine recently stated "There's been very little change in the 986 market over the last 12 months; it appears these cars may be fully depreciated." Not sure I would agree, but I do think condition is the biggest factor in value for the 986. FWIW.